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Beth n Rod

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  3. Posted · Report reply

    This season (Starting SOON!) The Grime Scene will be running specials that are for members ONLY. Registered users on our BBS forums will be notified of special deals, as well as news and articles.

    You'll save money by registering even if you don't post, but just drop in to read! So register today, because membership has savings advantages!

    Beth & Rod

    :cool: :cool:

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Calculating Material Costs

    By Russell Cissell, Extreme Solutions

    An important part of any business plan is a system of estimating based upon solid formulas. There are many factors that must be considered in developing the formula that is going to optimize your profitability. One important factor is going to be your choice of materials. It’s not enough to know only the price of the materials, you must also be aware of the cost per job. The following examples will demonstrate how to determine the cost of any material you use. Further it will be broken down to a cost per square foot.

    Example #1

    Cedar home about 15 years old: Homeowner says the previous owner had some kind of solid colored stain but it was too light. Homeowner applied two coats of dark Behr solid on top of the other stain one year ago. The finish is badly molded in the shaded areas and failing in spots with high sun exposure. There are some signs of cracking and peeling. Total surface area to restore is 1,620 square feet.

    Conclusions: Strong possibility that it was not prepped properly before the application of the existing finish. Cracking is caused by pressure created from the build up of water vapor trying to escape. Completely strip to bare wood and apply penetrating finish that will allow the vapors to escape.

    Product Selection: HD-80, Citralic Acid Brightener/Neutralizer and Extreme Solutions Wood Tux Sealer.

    Process: Apply HD-80 full strength and keep wet for 15 – 30 minutes. Pressure wash with low pressure (1,000 to 1,500 PSI) cold water and rinse. Apply Citralic Acid Brightener/Neutralizer and allow dwelling for 10 minutes and rinse. After sufficient drying time, apply Wood Tux Sealer in one heavy coat. Wood moisture content should be 12% or lower.

    Material Cost: HD-80 10.8 Gallons $25.92

    Citralic Acid 10.8 Gallons $17.82

    Wood Tux 10.8 Gallons $192.24

    Total $235.98

    Divided by a total of 1,620 sq. ft. = 14.56 cents per sq. ft.

    Example #2

    Cedar fence about three years old. Homeowner says the fence was built three years ago and sealed with TWP 101 semi transparent sealer. Finish is faded in sunlit areas and is starting to show signs of mold infestation in some shaded areas. Total surface area to restore is 1,200 sq. ft.

    Conclusions: Finish is showing signs of ware consistent with product performance expectations. Strip to bare wood and apply penetrating finish.

    Product Selection: EFC-38 (Half Strength) and Extreme Solutions Wood Tux Sealer

    Process: Apply EFC-38 at a 50% concentration, allow dwelling time of 15-20 minutes. Pressure wash with low pressure (1,000 to 1,500 PSI) and rinse well. After sufficient drying time apply Woo Tux in one heavy coat. Wood moisture content should be 12% or lower.

    Material Cost: EFC-38 4.0 Gallons $9.60

    Wood Tux 8.0 Gallons $142.40

    Total $152.00

    Divided by a total of 1,200 sq. ft. = 12.66 cents per sq. ft.

    Example #3

    Wood deck over ten years old. No apparent signs of a sealer. Wood readily absorbs water. The deck is shaded by large trees and gets very little sunlight. The deck overall is badly discolored however shows no signs of rot. Total surface area to restore is 750 sq. ft.

    Conclusions: Lack of sunlight and damp conditions are conductive to mold and mildew infestation. Remove top layers of wood that are infested, brighten wood to restore natural color and apply a penetrating sealer with anti-fungal agent.

    Product Selection: EFC-38 full strength, Citralic Acid Brightener/Neutralizer, Extreme Solutions Wood Tux Sealer.

    Process: Apply EFC-38 full strength and allow to dwell for 5 to 10 minutes. Strip with medium pressure (1,500 to 2,200 PSI). Apply Citralic Acid. And allow to dwell 5 to 10 minutes and rinse. After sufficient drying time apply Wood Tux Sealer in one heavy coat. Wood moisture content should be 12% or lower.

    Material Cost: EFC-38 5.0 Gallons $12.40

    Citralic Acid 5.0 Gallons $8.25

    Wood Tux 5.0 Gallons $89.00

    Total $109.65

    Divided by a total of 750 sq. ft. = 14.62 cents per sq. ft.

    To calculate the cost of any other material that you use regularly, simply make a chart like the one below. Start with your price per gallon. Divide that by the coverage and you will have the cost per square foot.

    Product Price Coverage Dilution Cost per Sq. Ft.

    Wood Tux $17.80 per gallon 150 sq. ft Full 11.86 cents

    HD-80 $2.48 per gallon 150 sq. ft.Full 1.6 cents

    HD-80 $2.48 per gallon 300 sq. ft. 1:1 (50%) 0.8 cents

    HD-80 $2.48 per gallon 600 sq. ft. 1:3 (25%) 0.4 cents

    EFC-38 $2.48 per gallon 150 sq. ft. Full 1.6 cents

    EFC-38 $2.48 per gallon 300 sq. ft. 1:1 (50%) 0.8 cents

    EFC-38 $2.48 per gallon 600 sq. ft. 1:3 (25%) 0.4 cents

    Citralic Acid $1.65 per gallon 150 sq. ft. Full 1.1 cents

  6. Posted · Report reply

    So do we. We use EFC-38 whenever possible.

    But what I was driving at, is are there things you can do to tell if the customer doesn't want you testing while you are estimating?

    Look, feel, smell... those are three things you can do.

    One reason we have found it's important to try to figure it out, is that it can bite you if you don't know. Sometimes a paint looks like a stain. HATE it when that happens.

    Other times it's really easy to tell. Same with the wood type.

    Beth

  11. Posted · Report reply

    This article was reposted with the permission of Russell Cissell of Extreme Solutions. Thank you Russell!

    -------------------------------------------------------------------

    I’ve noticed recently a lot of confusion with regard to the neutralization of wood during the cleaning and restoration process. I wanted to take just a few minutes to explain neutralization from the practical as well as physical standpoint. While it is not necessary to have a degree in chemistry to be proficient at wood restoration, a basic familiarity of the chemical processes that are taking place will help you understand why things sometimes go wrong for “no apparent reason”. Further, it will help you predict results and alter your process to match the job at hand. Unfortunately, I am going to have to give you a bit of background information before I can get into how neutralization affects the results of your work.

    -pH 101

    A Danish chemist first coined the term pH. “p” for the Danish word potenz which translates to “power” and H for hydrogen. Many compounds dissolve in water and alter the concentration of ions. Substances that form ions when they are dissolved in water are called electrolytes. The three types of electrolytes are acids, bases, and salts. Compounds that produce hydrogen ions when they are dissolved in water are called acids. Compounds that produce hydroxyl ions when they are dissolved in water are called bases.

    The pH scale was developed as a (simplified) way of assigning a value to the level of acidity or basicity of any given substance. The scale runs from 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral.

    Acid 0_1_2_3_4_5_6___7___8_9_10_11_12_13_14 Base

    __________________Neutral______________________

    Anything with a value less than 7 (for simplicity) can be called an acid. Anything with a value over 7 can be called a base. The further you go from 7 toward either end of the scale indicates the relative strength of the acid or base. Sodium Hydroxide, a common ingredient in wood strippers, ranges on the pH scale from 12.0 to 14.0 so it is very “Basic”. Oxalic, 0.1N, used in many brightener/neutralizers hits the pH scale at 1.6 so it is acidic.

    “Acids” are substances that dissociate in water to produce hydrogen (H+). An example of a common acid is sulfuric acid, H2SO4- In solution, H2S04 dissociates to form hydrogen and sulfate ions.

    Some other examples of acids are lemon juice, orange juice, aspirin and vinegar. Acids all share some common properties. For instance the term “Acid” comes from a Latin word that means, “sour.” You will find that most acid solutions will taste sour. On a side note, tasting a solution to determine if it is in fact an acid is not the best method! Acids share some other properties that are much safer to test for. Here are some examples:

    Acids turn litmus paper red.

    Acids react with many metals to form hydrogen gas.

    Acids react with carbonates to form C02 (carbon dioxide gas).

    “Bases” are substances that produce hydroxide ions (OH-) when dissolved in water. An example of a common base used in wood restoration is sodium hydroxide, NaOH. In solution NaOH, dissociates to form sodium ions and hydroxide ions. Common types of bases are most soaps, household ammonia and lye. Like Acids, Bases share common characteristics. The following are four characteristic properties of all bases.

    Basic solutions taste bitter.

    Basic solutions are slippery to the touch.

    Bases turn litmus paper blue.

    Bases neutralize acids.

    Anytime you combine an Acid with a Base the chemical reaction that takes place is called “Neutralization.” This process of neutralization creates “Salts”

    Salts

    When an acid reacts with a base, two products are formed; water and a salt. A salt is an ionic compound composed of positive ions and negative ions. The ionic bond is what keeps salts in their molecular form.

    The “salts” that are produced are not simple table salt (Sodium Chloride) such as is found in seawater. Chemically speaking the term “salts” is used to classify a whole group of ionic compounds. These ionic compounds are created during the complete or partial neutralization of acids. Salts can also be created by the direct combination of elements, reactions of salts and acids, or reactions between different salts. The term “salts” can further be broken down into two sub categories: Acid Salts and Normal Salts. While “Normal Salts” are created during complete neutralization, “Acid Salts” are created during incomplete neutralization. Certain soluble salts (principally sodium, potassium, magnesium, and calcium) that have the property of combining with acids to form neutral salts are called alkalies. Unlike acids and bases, salts vary greatly in all their properties except their ionic characteristics. Salts may taste salty, sour, bitter, astringent, sweet, or tasteless. Solutions of salts may be acidic, basic, or neutral to acid-base indicators. The reactions of salts are numerous and varied.

    Because of their ionic nature salts cause or enhance chemical reactions. Being ionic means that salts have an imbalance in the electrons that they contain. This imbalance facilitates the transfer of electrons from other molecules. This transfer of electrons is the very basis of a chemical reaction. In some cases this transfer of electrons is a very desirable thing. When it comes to the curing of a freshly applied stain or sealer it can cause reactions that are not conducive to the performance and longevity of the finish.

    Having said that I want to take a look the chemistry behind the restoration process. Because wood, especially cedar and redwood, tends to be slightly acidic, understanding the neutralization process becomes very important.

    When a contractor strips a solid colored stain or paint, often times they will use a stripper that contains a caustic, or base, such as sodium hydroxide. After the wood has been stripped the pH will still be very high (basic) and the wood may take on a dark appearance. It then becomes necessary to neutralize the wood to restore a more natural pH and color. Proper neutralization is crucial for the finish to cure out and perform optimally.

    If the wood is too caustic or basic it can react with the oils in the stain and produce a form of soap. This reaction will drastically alter the curing process of the finish and result in premature failure. If the wood is too acidic it can cause decolorization of the stain or prevent proper penetration and adhesion. In general most finishes are more tolerant to acidic conditions then basic conditions.

    As you read before, the neutralization process produces salts. These salts can have varied and unpredictable effects on a finish. It is not enough to simply neutralize. You must also thoroughly rinse the wood prior to the application of the finish. Substrate preparation accounts for about 90% of a finishes performance. If there are salts left behind by the cleaning process, you are asking for trouble when the finish is applied. The tricky thing about salts is they have a way of changing on you. Again, as mentioned earlier salts can be created from a reaction of other salts. Because of this it is difficult to know exactly what type of salts you will have when you return and thereby impossible to predict how a finish is going to react to any salts left behind.

    An example of this can be found when looking at color shift. Color shift is a term used to describe the process wood (especially cedar and redwood) goes through after it has been over treated with oxalic acid. The chemical process that takes place draws the natural coloring of the wood to the surface. This is an unnatural state for the wood and in a short time the natural colors in the wood will migrate or shift away from the surface of the wood. This can result in an uneven or splotchy appearance. In some cases the shift can be such that the wood will take on a whitish “dead” look.

    The absolute best advise I can give with regard to the cleaning and neutralization process is to rinse, rinse and rinse. When you are certain that you have rinsed as much as you can, rinse everything one more time. The extra couple minutes it takes you to rinse well is nothing when compared to the time it takes to strip off and reapply a finish that failed because you didn’t rinse well enough.

    Best of Luck

    Russell Cissell

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Well heck, go for it then. Please post some pics for others to see. :)

    I would not get your water too hot... and use a long squeege on an extension pole to help extract the water out of the garage.

    Just my .02 worth....

    Beth

    p.s. try your house wash mixture on the floor, but be careful, it will get slippery.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    We have not attempted it on VCT because of the concern for the backing. However, a surface machine is wonderful in a kitchen.

    I would stick to standard floor care...

    Strip, mop, wax, high speed buff w/ a machine.

    The liability is too great and if the mastic is not put on well, not enough, or whatever underneath....you'll be in a pickle.

    Beth

  18. Posted · Report reply

    The amount of "dish soap" in a home brew is not as much as you think. I have heard guys say its so you can see where you're throwing your bleach up... makes sense.

    Keep in mind also that most often guys will rinse with cold water. Cold water cuts suds. Hot water creates them. Washing with cold creates fewer of them, but then they cut easily regardless of if you used hot or cold to wash with.

    It's not as bad as you think. Don't worry, you aren't you going to have piles of bubbles floating around...

    Beth:cool:

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Ok. Need a little more info from you.

    First of all VCT = Vinyl Tile on a floor yes?

    Please describe what it is you are doing, cleaning an existing floor that has old wax on it, or cleaning a new floor at the construction clean up phase?

    I would NOT use a pressure washer on it. You can use a pressure washer on tile in a kitchen where you have drains, but not in a room without them.

    VCT is a strip, mop and wax type thing. Give me some more details to help you with . :)

    Beth:)

    p.s. don't forget to add your city and state in your profile please.... you can also add an avatar if you like, and a signature that shows below your posts about your company.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Steve!

    Welcome to The Grime Scene. Glad you stopped by. I figured one of you had posted a link. It was great talking to you today. I don't get as much time to chat as I would like with some folks.

    I ordered th Camelbaks this afternoon, and since they are all going to Las Vegas to be in the booth, I'll be marking yours SOLD and bringing it back with me to ship.

    I want a picture of you wearing it in your ZZ Top shades. Rod and all our crews are going to use them this season. Did I tell you why I became so interested in them? Well, last March, early March I think, we had a really weird heat wave...went up to like 95! If you are not ready for it, you can suffer. Well, Rod went out and sealed up a cedar deck and fence, and nearly killed himself doing it. He drove himself home, how, who knows. I rushed home from work when he called me and I could tell he was in bad shape.

    I drenched towels, put them all over him, put ice on his pressure points and head, and after some time he was better.

    After that, I became very aware of heat stroke. (never mind I had it the year before) I have been on the lookout since for things that help you work safer.

    Next time we are headed due south we'll be sure to stop in.

    Beth :)

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Hey Rich,

    Silent Rod here...I would recommend a dual axle trailer. It balances better and relieves the tongue load when the tank gets low. Besides that, it is just more stable.

    For the tank, I would recommend a 50 mesh screen for the incoming water. Some residents dont take care of their tanks and they sometimes get silt and other debris in them and that can make its way into your water supply and cause flow problems.

    For the 2 pw'ing units, remove the chem injectors and keep the system closed. This gives you a better flow without over working the pump for something you may never use. Also recommend electric start for both with a 25 amp recharging system. Beats the heck out of trying to pull start 2 units on a cold day.

    Keep 2-50' hoses in reserve for when you need the additional length.

    a 5'er and an X-Jet? are you using that to apply chems to a deck?

    Definately use the shurflos but mount them on a 2-wheel cart to make transporting them to the site easier. Keep the X-Jet for house washing and get a 72" ext. lance for those breezy days.

    shurflos---a/c or d/c? d/c gives you the least interupted service with a battery and charger that works off your vehicles 12 volt system.

    Other than that, the rest is preferrence in equipment manufacturer you are confident with for your units. Cat pumps and k-7 unloaders are da-bomb!:cool:

    Hope this helps...:)

    Silent Rod (who will try to be more outspoken on this BBS):eek:

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