Beth n Rod
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Posts posted by Beth n Rod
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I would stick with the ones designed for the machine. The pump could suffer trying to push the extra water.
Rod -
Unfortunately, there is no stain on the market I am aware of that will sustain the effects of chlorine on it combined with full sun UV
any longer. A quick cleaning/neutralization and reapplication is all I can suggest at this point.
Hopefully, others may lend their experiences.
Consider though, my experiences with products is skewed by comparison due to the VOC regulations in our region over what you
have access to purchase in yours.
Rodmike movila reacted to this -
The parts you outlined (facing up) would be the same as the outward facing part of the trim.
Where the trim and the decking butt together, one cannot access to apply.
The decking would be one color and the trim would be complete in making a border in the solid color.
Yes, the 2x4 bottom and top rails would be all one color.
The 4x4 post would all be one color.
The 2x6 decking would be the alternate color.
Rod -
Making the rails all one color is fairly standard and lowest in maintenance costs.
The trim edge of the deck is typically stained the same as the verticals so running a tape along the decking would help to keep the solid off them.
Edging with the semi-transparent is simple enough as well. The end result is a very nice manicured look and is not hard to take care of albeit you
will need to touch up these edge tops every time you do the floor.
Rod
T1snwbrdr12 reacted to this -
Spraying consumption will vary with the wind....literally. Expect to lose 15% in those conditions. But if you have a practiced hand, you can
reduce that according to how you change the position of your spray pattern (hold it vertical when doing spindles, Horizontal when spraying the top and bottom rail).
I would never advocate skipping the masking. Clean up takes even longer and the results will.....look splotchy on the floor.
Any time you have to sand a board, you are removing the part that the sun has darkened by UV exposure. (tan line for example)
If you sand part of a board you will get a lighter result in the stain compared to the rest of the board or surrounding boards.
The lattice is where you will lose the most but having someone behind (if accessible) to hold a cardboard shield will help recover some of it that collects
and allow it to be picked up with a brush and applied somewhere on the intended portions where need be.
Removing the top cap is a good way to ensure the product doesn't get on the underside of it. Before you reinstall the cap, seal the underside and ends of it too.
Helps to minimize the potential for cupping. If you have an endgrain sealer, apply it to the cut ends instead. This helps reduce shrinking due to loss of the woods
Natural moisture through wicking/drying over time.
Rod -
You should mask the floors where the rails are using blue tape and tarps to keep the primer/solid stain off the decking.
We use Behr for solid stains. Tough and durable, easy to touch up. Any primer will do that is meant for deck applications.
Rustic Brown as a color is a preference. The color is not the part that endures, it is the oils actually. The color will fade and in a
couple of years, require cleaning and a recoat as a maintenance regimen. Armstrong is meant as a moisturizing oil and the pigment
serves as a UV inhibitor to help reduce the effects of the sun graying the wood.
For sqft coverage, the label calls for 1 gallon to cover 200sqft (If memory serves) but I would calculate for 150sft/gallon to start.
Subsequent applications in the coming years will require less.
One coat only! Apply till the wood refuses and remove the excess and let dry.
For apply a solid stain, for efficiency and speed we use an airless spray by Titan. If you don't have an airless sprayer then brushing/pads or
rollers will help with the application but brushes will be required in the tight spots.
Solid stain on verticals stays clean longer than the floors do. The caps may get dirty quicker than the spindles/balusters. You can clean them
along with the deck in intervals of every 2 years with OxyClean or comparable Sodium Percarbonate solution.
Rod -
Ground level deck. Facing which direction? (north, south etc.) It is important to understand the site conditions because it will affect the
performance of the coating and the way the wood behaves.
If you are going to solid stain the rails I would suggest a primer then solid. Have the supplier tint the primer at least 50% the color of the stain
you are going to apply. Helps with blending and coverage.
We always mask the floor around the rail posts and use a tarp while the verticals are being completed. The floor is last and the easiest and shouldn't be a worry
if you accidentally touch the solid colored rails. It will easily clean off using a rag and a mild degreaser/water solution.
For Armstrong Clark products, we buy from ACR Products out of Easton Pa. It's about a one day turnaround for delivery if you order in the morning AND if they
have the color in stock. Otherwise they will advise you how long it will take.
Tell them we sent you.
Rod -
Yeah, we're all having the same drifting our way over here in the dc area.
Rain, snow, cold, rain, cold, windy cold.....yeah....enough alreadyRod
mike movila reacted to this -
Weather is not the only factor. Temps don't allow for us to wash because we are creating ice and risking the machines, hoses freezing while out in the cold.
We do remodeling work and interior work when it is available since I have carpentry skills to support it. But the chances for those opportunities don't come
often.
That is what we mean when we say 'We are done for the season'. Pressure washing. I don't have guys on the payroll with any other skill sets to support doing
anything else so most of the time they become helpers when the opportunity comes.
Rod -
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Flagstone isn't a good candidate for sealing. It is a shale rock which will continue to flake off due to the porosity of the stone
allowing moisture to flow through it from below. Sealing the top is superfluous.
As for cleaning, most likely, you are trying to get rid of mold and algae. A simple soap solution with bleach will work and then
scrub with a stiff bristle brush. Then was with a power washer, 40 degree tip and from a distance of at least 6" from the surface
to minimize flaking caused by the chisel effect of the pressure.
Rod
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Wow.
Sometimes situations call for a rebuild, other times it calls for replacement.
Inadvertently you are replacing it piece by piece.
Rod -
Sounds high but you must be within your competitors and what the market will bear.
Rod
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Yeah, I would check into the pump. Sounds similar to a condition I have experienced.
Pump wasn't that old either but it was used on a 2 gun machine so it was put to work a great deal.
When the tech took the pump apart to take a look inside, the entire gear/piston assembly had just
collapsed and was a mangled mess.
Scratching my head, we ordered a new pump and back to work I went.
Rod -
Tyrone,
In case you didn't, please read this entire thread. There is quite a lot of information about your questions contained within.
Once you have read this thread and still have questions more specific in nature, then I can help.
The questions you asked pertain to this thread and are not very easily answered in a blanket question without going into a long
list of responses very much like what has been posted above.Happy reading.
Rod -
I would put a set of gauges on the end of one hose you know has no problems.
One before the gun, the other after with a tip loaded.
Start the unit with the trigger depressed and watch the pressure that registers past the gun.
The unloader may need to be adjusted.
Rod.
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A couple of things come to mind.
First is oxidation in the paint making it look dusty.
Another is a question: Is the house close to any industry that does
cement, blasting or quarry operations?
The combination of environment and catalization can cause these pollutants to bond with the coating and become
more permanent. If this is the case, repainting may be the best method once the surface has been cleaned as effectively
as possible.
Rod -
GMAN
80% close is not a bad rate.
What's the profit margin?
Rod -
gt2003,
Thank you for that clarification.
yes, clean with a sodium hydroxide based cleaner and neutralize with an acid.
I mistakenly leaped to the conclusion of the deck coating product of same name.
Rod -
Absolutely.....not.
That product will only hold up well if you can coat all 6 sides of the board to limit dynamic changes in the wood and even then if it
is going to be subject to salt water...disaster.
Most often, a teak oil is the best option to keep the wood moisturized in the interim but will need to be done up to 2x a year to
maintain the look.
If the boat is covered when not in use and the craft is only for occasional use, just give the decking a light sanding to keep it from
getting rough from drying out and leave it bare.
But by no means would I ever recommend restore-a-deck or any similar product on a hardwood like teak.
Rod -
btw, when you time yourself and plan on having employees doing the work, add a factor of time because they are not invested in the success
of your company as you are and will take longer as they are thinking more about the hours they get and don't want to bust their ass for only
'XX' dollars per hour.
Pressure washing can be exhausting depending on the facet you ultimately focus on. But it can be quite profitable.
Rod -
Keep in mind that in just 'pressure washing', companies offering this definition of service are a dime a dozen and competition will be high.
You might have to investigate just how good a service these companies offer for that price and what the reputation is. BBB and other ratings
are a start.
We find out what the customer wants, what problems they had in the past and let them pour out their pain and in the process they literally
give you the means for which to position yourself to provide what they want and in that way you can command a higher price. We call this
'Consultative' Selling and it works like a charm because there is no pressure and the customer feels like they are in control of the process.
It's a dance where we are leading with our questions but the answers they provoke give the customer the impression they are leading.
A simple way to get them in your corner is to ask: Have you had this service done before? Any reason why you didn't want to keep using the
other company?
They will spill it out because if there is any 'Pain' associated with their prior experience, it becomes the fodder for which you can then take all
that and position yourself to be the one to not only provide the service but avoid the pitfalls that the last company failed this customer on.
Raising your prices above the competition is always a risky thing but I have a feeling you have some sales experience that will lend to your
success. The techniques I mentioned are a great way to get a better price and once you have fulfilled your part and the customer is happy
the word of mouth spreads and you start getting repeat business.
Regarding pressure washing, you will also need to set the expectations with your clientele on the frequency pressure washing will be required.
This takes a bit of research into things and in our class for PWNA, we cover in more detail these conditions in wood restoration. In pressure washing, your
surfaces will be dictated by the environment, landscape, runoff, shade/trees, cardinal orientation (North, south, east, west...yes. it does play a
factor in mold and mildew growth). Learning about the surfaces you will be washing will help you a great deal and avoid a great number of mistakes
or setbacks.
If you are going to be doing house washing...you need to understand the structure of what you are going to be washing....especially vinyl and aluminum
siding. High pressure and these installations do not fare well and you can cause a great deal of damage. (speaking of which, make sure your insurance
covers what you are going to be doing...check with Joseph D. Walters Insurance. Insurance can require specificity in definition of coverage for what you
are washing to be insured properly)
We highly suggest soft washing. Injection soap application, brush and rinse. There is much to learn including what is to be included and not in the scope
of your wash regimen. Some people think a porch should be included in a house wash because if you didn't define it as "Siding" washing and which type, you
set yourself up for a pissed off customer.
On productivity...this is why I suggested you have someone run the lawn mowing part while you ramp up. There is a great deal you need to do yourself and
actually time yourself from set up to performing the service to tear down. Most have a flat rate per sqft which covers up to 'X' sqft then the cost goes up. by
another measure, you can develop a sliding scale which the price starts out higher and comes down incrementally as the sqft goes up. (the longer you are on the job,
the less time setting up and tearing down to be factored)
House washing pricing varies and the time to complete depends on the service you are offering. Some just apply bleach and rinse. Others apply a soap and bleach
mix and brush the siding and rinse. Some charge extra for exterior gutter cleaning. Windows become a potential upsell but dealing with screens is a hassle
because they almost always need to be removed from the inside. We have our customers remove them ahead of time if possible in order to offer window services.
See the complexity developing?
Research is key.
Rod
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Concerning cash flow. We have built our customer base from word of mouth and reputation and as such have ourselves
booked out months in advance with 1/3's either being held or deposited as the job gets closer in the que.
We have jobs that pay the full amount upon completion ('One stop shops' we call them). And others that require
2 trips are on a 1/3 down plus balance upon completion if smaller in size. Others which may take even longer or require a
full day on each phase of the 2 day process require a 2/3 payment upon completion of the first phase and balance upon
the completion of the rest.
You have an advantage where you already have a business in progress. I would use that to expand your customers' services
while getting ready for the full time transition next year. Why not get that part going asap? You know your schedule and capabilities
best and could use that to set up for future business with you current customers and not skip a beat really.
If I was in your position, I would hire someone to continue the business you already have in place while you devote time to building
the other. You keep the cash flow going and don't have to worry so much about dropping the net so to speak. You are fortunate in
your position. Having two businesses is a great advantage plus it gives you the ability to utilize workers from both in the case you
become shorthanded either way. As an employee, many enjoy the diversity. (breaks up the monotony). Plus, it allows you to be able
to cross train people for both and cover in the event of shortages in help. Great opportunity I would say.
As far as building up a customer base, go with what you know. That is the best place to start. If it worked before, apply it again.
Web site is a great way to attract people to your business and since you are already established in one area, you gain some consumer
confidence in that as well. Not a jack-of-all-trades mind you but enterprising is a better way to put it.
Starting from scratch will take time and you may not be able to command what you want as a new entity. As a division of another, you
will have better luck and results. Use it to your advantage.
The rest is as I mentioned before. Anywhere you operate whether it be as a lawn mowing company or as a pressure washing company,
use your presence in a neighborhood to put out flyers or door knob hangers letting others know what you offer. For each house you serve
post a flyer/hanger on each side of that house and the 3 across the street. It takes 7-10 minutes to walk it or have someone do it while the
final phase of your current job is happening to keep them busy.
Also, target areas that are affluent and have the money more than those run down. You can get a better price and references from them than
the alternatives plus less hassle for those wanting the champagne service on a beer budget!
Rodmike movila reacted to this -
Hello and welcome to The Grime Scene.
#1 is a matter of demographics and preference.
I will answer for the residential aspect as we found more problems in securing reliable cash flow from commercial due to
many non-compliant companies always giving us 'their' schedule of when they cut checks etc.
Got fed up with the hassle and concentrated specifically on residential. The only part the comes close to commercial is our
relations with property managers which has been very successful and reliable.
The details on how to charge vary on what you are washing and if you are going to offer any followup services for wood
cleaning/restoration which involves some carpentry and sealant/stain applications. This part is highly weather dependent
and I would not dive in until you have taken a certification course to help gain a basis of knowledge. I suggest PWNA for a start.
The pricing has to do with YOUR business model and your pay structure. How long does it take you to wash 'X' and what does it
cost you to wash: wages, insurance, fuel(s) including travel time and ass time for your crew, chemicals, payments for equipment
and any rentals you may have to hire etc.
You can price by sqft but you have some math to do. Figuring out what you need to stay afloat is a start combined with the previous
paragraph will help guide you on your pricing. Rule of thumb: Raise your prices as the market will bear and only in relation to cost
increases you have to pass on to your customers.
Depending upon the job size we charge the customer a 1/3 to get started (upon booking) and balance upon completion. In cases where
the job is very large and requires more than on trip, 2/3 upon completion of (specified phase of work completed ei; wash/stripping a deck)
on the first trip. Balance upon completion of the rest.
Some companies offer financing to those customers whose jobs exceed a certain dollar amount and allow payments over a period of time.
That can work both ways positively and negatively on cash flow and making payroll if a number of customers are late on payments.
#2. You already have a client base to start from and if you have some decent references from them the advantages save you the advertising.
I would start by examining each customer you have and coming up with a sheet detailing the optional items you could wash: Patio, walkway,
Siding, gutters, pool apron, wall(s), deck(s), fence etc. and how much sqft of each. Offer them the additional services at introductory rates
while you are ramping up. At each customers location, pass out a flyer to each house next door and to all houses across the street as a rule.
As you know, people talk to their neighbors and ask for feedback on the contractors they use. Great word of mouth. You just have to generate
their attention. Landscapers/lawnmowers don't often get much attention but when a crew starts up a pressure washer, people become intrigued.
Use that to draw attention to your services.
#3. Consider a Sprinter van. They have up to 2 tons cargo capacity. I have a dual gun pressure washer installed at the back, a 200gal square
supply tank just forward of it with a tool box on top (plywood table of sorts and a drawer/shelf system along side) and a 3 stack hose reel towards
the front just behind the driver seat. Of course you will want a partition wall to protect the occupants in the event of an accident but the main point is
all of what you need is on-board and enclosed from the weather and theft.
#4. You will find many pressure washers and wood restoration companies won't get out of bed for less than $75.00/hr. Others are around 100-125.
Depends on what your market will bear. Once you have done some research on other more established companies, you will find out what is competitive
and what you can be profitable on. After 18 years in business, we are of the top highest priced contractors and with a good reputation and service can
basically command your price.
#5. Sounds reasonable to start if that is what you always book. In our experience, travel also plays a factor in how much you can get done. The jobs get more
sporadic in locations as you may have guessed and this will factor into it. The size of the house(s), the type of surface you are washing, the landscape
difficulties (plantings and such that get in the way, make access difficult to not possible), rinsing and diverting water to ground (gotta watch out for the water cops)
[Clean water act] Plus you will have to check into local laws AHJ's (authorities having jurisdiction) as well.
Another issue is water access and flow. Many homes don't always have water flow that can keep up with a pressure washer so that is another factor you will
Have to consider in not only the equipment you purchase but if you may require a hydrant meter for tapping a water hydrant if the site doesn't have enough flow
AND how to charge for that option as well. The size of the tank can be an issue if you have too many residents with low flow (<4gpm-Gal/per/minute).
#6. Many of us 'Specialize' in a specific aspect and up-sell to other items as a rule. ie; we specialize in wood restoration and up-sell house washing and pressure
washing services (detailed items according to what is present). We are aware of a number of people in your area that target specifically house washing, fence washing
(species of wood specific too) etc. The rest are add-on services and it makes it easier for your crew to be able to sell them on the spot if you come up with a
structured price list they can follow.
I hope this helps provide some modicum of direction and sense of probability.
Rodmike movila and Clean & Clear reacted to this
Approved cleaners for a wood dock on the Chesapeake bay
in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
Posted · Report reply
Try searches similar to this.
approved cleaners for docks on chesapeake bay
I am sure there is something allowed besides water but finding it takes time.
Rod