Beth n Rod
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Posts posted by Beth n Rod
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Looks like were still at it this week and into the week of the 11th.....
[scrambling]Rod
mike movila reacted to this -
We're getting close. Got a log home to blast on monday and a play lot to do some repairs on but that will probably end our season about the
2nd week of December.
After that...indoors we go!Rod
mike movila reacted to this -
I don't even bother with buying in bulk or that concentration anymore.
We have switched to just single bottles of clorox at HD and a few detergents/foaming agents/builders/rinse aids and extension poles and brushes.
Get far better cleaning results, no bleach residue left behind, no oxidation issues to contend with and customers that call us back every two yearsto deal with the problematic sides and the rest of the house is a breeze. Same money, easier cleaning, less time and repeat business.
Rodgman201 reacted to this -
I don't bother to quote stripping that stuff anymore.
It is cheaper to re-skin the deck. Consider that the wood has already gotten to a point that this is a last resort for anyone to
consider using this....Crap!
After having it on for a long enough period, the wood starts to rot because it is holding in moisture where ever it fails and allows
water to collect beneath it where it flakes off.
I have tried to strip it off only to find a turbo nozzle works the best and even then it never got rid of the stuff that goes into the cracks.
For all the cost associated with trying to remove it, it is far cheaper to just replace the wood and then apply a sealer.
fwiw.
Rod
mike movila and Sal Bertolini reacted to this -
Clean it first. Then sand it. Use no higher than 80 grit.
You can use a couple of different methods but grinders help get the job done faster if you learn how to keep it with the grain.
If you run into corners, use a palm sander (square type the you have to use hook bars to hold the paper which is cut to size
specifically for the sander).
Rod -
Keep the percarb from drying on glass. It turns it cloudy. The cause is the cure fortunately but it ends up taking more time and effort to
physically rub or brush them to remove the haze.
I would suggest a maintenance strength sodium hydroxide based cleaner and then neutralize.
Rodmike movila reacted to this -
I can understand your intention to address the customers request but keep this in mind. . . The customer doesn't always know what is best.
Cleaning just a part without touching adjacent shakes is a surgical operation and unless you intend to do it by hand just give em a price break
to clean them all to look the same (or as close to it as possible considering the proximity to the ground.)
I am guessing the shakes have been replaced at some point in the past and the h.o. is proceeding based upon advice given by the installer.
The installer is NEVER there to see the progress of nature and exposure for the sake of maintenance. They only see it once everything has
gone to rot and decay requiring replacement.
Use your best judgement and remember also this....your reputation is in the results. Others don't know the arrangement you make and their
perceptions will be based upon solely what you complete. They may think you weren't doing a good job and got fired.
Food for thought.
Rod -
Bumping the thread to see if anyone can help...
Rod
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Prewet the composite first since you have to neutralize the wood rails.
Rodmike movila reacted to this -
On 5/31/2017 at 11:47 AM, MDBBALL02 said:Ok ... I'm just a little homeowner, not a contractor, but I AM WOMAN HEAR ME ROAR! LOL I figured out how to get Rust stains, that were left from my wrought iron furniture, off my Trex (2nd generation) light gray composite deck planks ......READY???? A simple and cheap Hydrogen Peroxide and Baking Soda paste you can make, and an old toothbrush! IT WORKS! (I came to this site looking for a solution or recommendation and didn't so I started trying different things myself and WHOLA! Hope this helps! Each stain took me about 10 minutes, to scrub with this paste, but they all came up! Good Luck!
Good to hear but it would depend on the severity of the rust to do that. Those elements are not active on rust typically. You got lucky. Acid is the way to go. Try tennis ball feet on wrought iron in the future, or clear coat with a Rustoleum product.
Beth
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Your gauge should be after the gun.
The tip after the gauge to determine the pressure according to the nozzle size
designated for your pump.
Rod -
You're Welcome Mike.
Rod -
Gotcha. I thought you meant it hadn't been sealed yet.
Then the dark patches are where water is showing it has gotten into the wood.
Not a sealer failure, just an eventuality since the deck can't be sealed on all sides
once it is built.
Rod -
Yeah, I just thought putting up the contact page with a contact phone number would be useful.
You may have compared the numbers by now as well.
Maybe he got a better service plan and changed but one would think he'd notify his customers
in some way of that change.
Rodmike movila reacted to this -
mike movila reacted to this -
Wow. Quite a long time. You may need to rewash it as it looks like the deck is starting to darken up in spots.
My suggestion is to take 1 gallon of water, 1/4 gallon of bleach and apply to the horizontals. Allow to work and lighten up
the darkening areas and rinse. Neutralize with citric acid again and rinse once more.
What this does is address any biological growths starting up in the wood fibers and makes sure they can't
grow under the sealer once you get to apply.
Rod -
If the Thermal Safety valve is leaking, it needs to be replaced.
It's purpose is to protect the pump in the case of water recirculating for prolonged periods of time
without the trigger on the gun being pulled. As water recirculates, it gains heat from the pump and
over a few minutes can get to temperatures that will eventually harm the pump.
The valve allows a discharge of water once it reaches a pre-set temperature allowing cool water to
enter and releasing the heated water. Once the water temp drops enough, it usually shuts off and allows
the unit to continue to function.
Now, if it is the pressure relief valve, it has to be replaced every time it blows. It is a safety function of the unit
to prevent the machine from exceeding it's operating pressure. It has no re-set ability. The foil seal will burst
and cannot be repaired.
Rod. -
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Bought 2 Titan sprayers. 1-440i and 1-640i back in 2006.
With only minor up keep and hose/gun replacements they have performed
without any problems as long as the proper cleaning regimen is followed.
Replaced pump seals a couple of times. Next time I will let a shop do it instead...I messed it up.
Now it leaks.Rod
mike movila reacted to this -
4 hours ago, Sunshinegutterspro said:@Beth n Rod, you visit on Sunshinegutterspro web then you will be able to understand better with clarity.
I looked on the website you mentioned. There is nothing detailing exterior gutter cleaning to be found.
My questions revolves around the statement : You first clean the gutter primer, rub & rinse , liquid dish soap.
What are you referring to as 'Primer'?
Rub and rinse with what?
Liquid dish soap is not a go to product for cleaning black streaks off of gutters.
So, can you get a bit more detailed in your instructions?
Rodmike movila reacted to this -
Your injector will work, just have to factor for the additional flow if the gpm's are not the same.
Rod
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4 hours ago, wendyheath said:Hi there, I think this is not cleaned properly. You should scrub it with the help of sand paper.
That's the most ridiculous thing I have seen in a long time. Not good advice.
Beth
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Add a mildewcide and japan dryer to just what you intend to apply and make sure there is no more than the wood
can accept and wipe off the excess.
Rod -
I must be missing something. Your phone number is not in your profile.....
Beth
Teak Swim Platform clean and restain
in DIY'ers - Ask The Pro's
Posted · Report reply
Can't be specific without seeing the condition of the platform and the coating installed.
Got pics?
Rod