Russ Johnson

Hypro makes a good pump...very prevalent in the car wash industry.

Vid removed...

The specs on the pump are the maximum recommended operating parameters, and the Hp rating is the required input to attain those specs. Pumps can be slowed to achieve less gpm, and nozzles can be sized to get the pressure that your motor is capable of achieving at that gpm. The formula to figure required Hp is as follows...GPM*PSI/1450=Hp.

Look at the thermocouple. (The rod that sticks up into the pilot) If it has a copper tube on it running back to one screw in fitting on the main valve, then the valve is electrically activated. If it has 2 wires encased in a spiral wrapped metal jacket, and attaches to 2 screws on the main valve, it's a millivolt.

Does the machine have a combination gas valve on it? (pilot and main on positions on the knob). Either you need 24, 120 or 240 volts to open the main part of the valve, or it's got a "Powerpile" thermocouple that actually generates millivolts from the heat. If it's millivolt, you have no worries, otherwise you've got to make sure the valve gets the right voltage or it'll break.

Hi, Kyle, you're at it again, I see...:D You can increase the fuel pressure for more heat, but I would use a temp gauge to keep it below 200*. If the burner is 24 volt controlled, you'll either have to rewire the transformer (if it can be done), or buy a new transformer. Does the machine have a rotary off-pump-burner switch? For 220 volts, all legs must "break" in the off position, where 120 volts only break the hot leg (usually black). It would be advisable to change the switch, too.

Love...Terminator style...LOL

I have replaced many of the microswitches on the ShurFlo pumps. In my opinion, the switch is too small to handle the amperage of the motor. I have started using a 30 amp relay, and use the micro to activate the relay. The relay handles all the amp draw from the motor.

The Commanding Officer of a Infantry Battalion in the U. S. Army was about to start the morning briefing to his Staff and Battalion and Company Commanders. While waiting for the coffee machine to finish its brewing, he decided to pose a question to all assembled. He explained that his wife had been a bit frisky the night before and he failed to get his usual amount of sound sleep. He posed the question of just how much of making love was 'work' and how much of it was 'pleasure?' The X.O. chimed in with 75-25% in favor of work. A Captain said it was 50-50%. The Colonel's Aide, a Lt., responded with 25-75% in favor of pleasure, depending on his state of inebriation at the time. There being no consensus, the Colonel turned to the PFC who was in charge of making the coffee. What was HIS opinion? With no hesitation, the young PFC responded, "Sir, it has to be 100% pleasure." The Colonel was surprised and, as you might guess, asked why? Well, Sir, began the PFC, "if there was any work involved, the officers would have me doing it for them."

Oh you're already way beyond that...I was referring to the end where the burner is attached. I have been able to pull just the burner head and weld the coil where it sits. Sounds like you're ready to give it the yank. The "plate" is a baffle designed to deflect the heat through the pancakes instead of just rushing through the center hole.

Yeah, but I was getting at what needs to be removed to get the nipples out...

They're around $6.75 for single wire, $8.75 for 2 wire.

I use reuseable ends all the time to repair customers' hoses. Gates is the only brand I use...have yet to have one fail. Of course, when I cut the hose, I examine the condition of the rubber...if I know it won't hold due to degradation, I won't fix it.

Sure...you have to disconnect the hose from the unloader to the coil, pull the reed switch out of the flow switch (a phillips head screw holds it in), remove as much plumbing as you need to so the pipe going into the coil will swing around to unscrew. Remove the small nut holding the capillary tube from the thermostat in the large brass fitting and pull the bulb out of the fitting. Do not cut or crimp the capillary tube, it must remain intact. Get a pipe wrench and unscrew both pipes out of the wrap. There should be 1/4" (7/16" head) bolts holding the skin halves together. Remove all of them...some really suck to get to...and remove the sheet metal screws holding the front and burner heads on (the ends of the coil housing) and remove them. Lift the top skin off, peel back the insulation, and the coil should then lift out. The bear'sgetting it back together. Make sure the insulation covers the whole housing without any air gaps. Getting the holes in the coil lined up with the holes in the skin so the pipe will thread back in is not fun, and the end caps are real tough to get on. But it can be done. BUT...before doing all that, remove the burner head alone. See if the leak is accessible to weld where the coil sits. Sometimes you get lucky. Here's a link to exploded views for easier parts identification... Parts listing and exploded views for Hydro Tek

Florida Chemical Supply IS your area distributor...

The Hydro Tek SC30008KAF is designed to run 2 guns...constantly if you like. I don't understand him saying it causes undue stress?...unless he just can't get one.

I'm a Simpson Delco distributor...I'll call and see if they still support that product.

I have heard (never tried it) that butyl will break down the silicones in tire dressing...

Shawn, does your burner have a flame sensor on it? These were originally designed as a safety lock out for home heating systems should ignition not occur to prevent the combustion chamber from being flooded with raw fuel. On 12 volt machines, they are used to drop the ignitor out after ignition is established, basically making the flame self supporting, to save current draw. If they screw up in this configuration, then you are left with no spark to light the fuel spray. If yours has one, there should be an electric "eye" mounted on the bottom of the ignitor, and a box mounted over the motor or to the rear of the ignitor. It can be bypassed by finding the red wire on the ignitor, disconnection it from the terminal in the box, and tying it together with the red to the motor. You can either replace it or leave it bypassed, as long as you're geting a good charge rate out of your engine.

Jim, sounds like an air leak of sorts on the inlet side of the pump...possibly a bad low pressure seal or a cracked plunger, possibly a bad o ring on the first seal retainer. Yank the head off, check the plungers for cracks (should appear as a dark line running lengthwise on the plunger), check the first seal in the head for fraying, raggedness, etc, check the o ring on thefirst piece of brass that you pull from the head. Also check the face of the aluminum crankcase where the brass rings sit. It should be flat and on the same plane as the rest of the crankcase. If it shows signs of movement from the brass ring(a circular divot around the hole where the piston comes through), then you can rebuild it all day, and it's still going to screw up because the brass ring is allowed to move, fraying the o ring. If you like, take some pics of the disassembled pieces and email them to me, or post them here. It might help.

John, I did notice a couple of things that may help the pump last longer. The see through filter that's on it is fine for garden hose pressure feed. It's kind of restrictive on a suction line. I recommend and use brass "Y" strainers for skids pulling off tanks. It's like a straight piece of pipe with a "turn down". The screen goes into the flow at an angle, so the dirt drops down out of the normal flow. Or use a good sized canister filter at the tank outlet. The elbow, too...gotta go. A straight flow into the head is best. Any 90* turns on the pipe cause turbulence. A 3' arch of good suction hose would be preferred over a 90* pipe elbow. I've even used 2 - 45* street Ls where nothing else would work to straighten the flow...at lease it lessend the turbulence in the suction line. From your pics, it appears thaat there's enough room in front of the belt guard to switch the suction line to the other port...would be almost a straight shot from the tank.

Mel maked a funny....

Doug, that unloader is made in Italy. BSP pipe thread has no taper and is designed to be sealed with a copper or aluminum washer where the two pieces meet. NPT will work fine in BSP as long as it's teflon teped well and not overtightened.

Somebody got too energetic tightening NPT threads into a BSP fitting. The taper basically expanded the fitting past its stress point.

Many skids are built solid - no isolation at all, others bolt the engine and pump to a skid plate isolated from the remainder of the machine.