Russ Johnson

Pressure switches can be ordered in varying activation pressures. Yours was probably working as it should for it's pressure range.

Me - $112.75

The generators installed on 120 volt burner equipped machines are 2,000 to 2,500 watt. Once the burner is running, it will only use 500 watts to keep going, but needs all of 2,000 watts to start. If you've ever been around 120 volt skids, when the burner is switched "on", there is a noticeable drag in the engine until the governor kicks out a couple more horsepower. Once the burner starts, everything's back to normal. Get the generator, you'll be much happier.

Is there a possibility of any leaks in your system (hose, coupler, gun, etc.) The reason I ask is when the pressure bleeds off, the unloader (pressure activated) will cycle. At low rpm's, the engine won't make enough power to peak it out again, and it will stall.

When idling low? Do you reduce the rpm's of the engine too low?

A customer of mine uses an inverter to run his hot box, but it's the European style with the small motor. He wanted to use a hot box I have, but mine's got a full sized Wayne burner on it, and the inverter wouldn't get it started.

How far away from the tank is your pressure washer? Sounds like you have a direct drive, but it'll pull from your tank without the booster. Just make sure to keep the hose run short, 3/4" or larger, and a straight shot into the pump.

The easiest way is to take the snap ring off the outside and slide the outer part of the swivel off. You can then get to the wrench flats which will unscrew the swivel body from the reel tube. Then you must remove the hose from the back of the swivel body.

Be sure to grease everything as you assemble, too. How's the oil look? Those piston nuts look pretty bad...might need to change them and the washers, too. Check closely for any cracks in the pistons.

Used / cracked General Pump plungers are great chem line weights.

Just got off the phone with GP...man told me that the nickel plating is for corrosion resistance and allows for higher pressures...that's what I was told...:rolleyes2

All General Pumps have brass heads...some are just nickel plated. The plating really does nothing to increase strength or durability.

The best you can expect out of either pump at 3000 psi with a 20 hp is 6.5 gpm.

Amen, Larry...

I use aluminum brightener on stainless steel all the time. Nothing makes a used machine look better than a shiny skin. The one I use is hydrofluoric and sulfuric mixed.

I've seen them all...I carry Reelcraft. There are cheaper, but I don't know of any better.

Ditto

Sulfamic acid is the easiest, safest route. It's in a powdered form, and can be used through the pump on the washer. I also use a chemical called Lime Free that is designed for use with dishwashing machines. Always works great. I wouldn't run muriatic through coils very often unless it's inhibited...muriatic is iron hungry.

If it looks like a Honda but doen't say "Honda", it's Chinese...

I wonder who hit him with it and how many times...

You said it yourself. Chinese engines are made of inferior materials and are sloppily machined. Warranty issues would be another nightmare. You'd be hard pressed to find ANY local representation whatsoever. I have Rockwell hardness testing results on file for Honda vs. Chinese as I was testing generators for a local importer. Cylinders and crankshaft journals were substantially softer materials.

...at least she's communicating...

Were it me, I'd go no darker than maple...anything like walnut, and you'd lose a lot of the character the knots lend.

About 4 days including sanding, dusting, and polyurethaning. We walked on the floors between coats, but only after 18 hours or so and only in socks.