Russ Johnson

Vanguard? More than likely, the solenoid is the problem. If it's the red wire that burned, it can be cut out of the harness and replaced because it attaches to the switch independently from the others. The rest of the wires all hook up in the molded plug. Yep, always, always disconnect the battery.

I'm bumping this back up. I've only got a week left, and I need some help. C'mon, $10, $25, $50 for crippled kids? Please consider making a donation. Thanks.

Yes, they do.

They make a special coupler to thread connect aluminum wands together. The threads are recessed so the strain is on the pipe, not the threads.

3 nozzle broom, use #2502, 4 nozzle use #25015

You should be at a max temp of 200 degrees at the discharge of the coil. If not, a 1/4 gph larger fuel nozzle could help or increasing the fuel pressure may get you where you want to be. Either way, you will need to readjust the air bands for the increased fuel volume. I wouldn't do the bypass the water thing...unless you get a professional shop to covert it to a combination machine (steam or hot water)...you could mess the machine up or get hurt...

Well, it'll up the odds anyway...

How about a sewer cleaning nozzle mounted on 1/4" braided steel hose?

I carry a gun....38...I will use it if I'm forced to, and I'll worry about repercussions later...I'll still be alive.

Stretching the spring increases the closing pressure of the bypass valve (nothing to do with operating pressure), snapping it closed faster when the flow starts. The ZK1 is a completely different design. It does not have this spring in it.

Hydro Tek has an 8 and a 9 at 3,000 hot skid.

Does that machine still have the original float tank or are you pressure feeding the pump with the hose? It must have a float tank for the pump to draw from in order to create the vacuum to draw soap as well. If the tank is gone, a downstream injector and pressure reducing nozzle will work in its place.

You forgot the crumpled newspaper...lol

Chris, Your Hydro Tek probably has a K7 on it... here's a little trick. Remove the bottom cover ( 13 mm head bolts), pull the piston out, and remove the spring underneath. Stretch the spring a little, but evenly. Grease the rubber cup on the piston and reassemble it. Should hit every time.

Should slide out the back after you remove the burner head. I have had to take a 2X4 down the stack to pry them out.

If it is a true 4.5 gpm, a #45 nozzle nets 4,000 psi. You need a #5 for about 3,200 psi.

Do the 110 volt, you'll be much better off.

Joe, you need any help getting it set up, call me.

On a regulating unloader there are 2 nuts on the stem..1 for maximum set pressure and 1 to set minimum. If you get these nuts set properly once, you just have to run the knob to your preset limits..all the way in for pressure washing, all the way out for carpets. Removes the guesswork.

Use 1 regulating unloader equipped with a knob to reduce system pressure / flow and a thermostat. With the proper nozzle combination on your floor tool, you'll be where you want to.

Barry, you're vicious...I like it.

Don't be too sure...what model pump?

Not necessarily. As long as the arc has a good jumping off point, they'll be fine.

Once upon a time.... That switch was the industry standard. Very durable, large, high amp switch. They apparently got too expensive for manufacturers to use.

Kyle, I noticed from the pics you emailed me that the bottom of the coil jacket has rotted down to the coil inlet. You'll have to weld a short skirt of metal around the base to get the port lined back up with the hole in the skin.