Russ Johnson

Yeah, the title really OUGHT to be changed. The man's own sense of entitlement let him down.

Ridiculous. You see a job you want to do, although there is no RFP. Someone writes you a recommendation lauding your talents. You submit an unsolicited bid with the recommendation. Prospect looks over your proposal and decides they don't want or need your service. You end up mad at the author of the recommendation letter. WHAT?

You're welcome Mr Hicks.

Fuel nozzles should be changed yearly. If you get the old one out, it'll have numbers stamped on it to designate orifice size and spray pattern, as well as flame shape.

Chris, I'm sure it's millivolt (the thermocouple makes the power for the gas valve). I'll double check tomorrow and get you a price.

Chris, wire color makes no difference. As Doug said, the manufacturers all put the wire color in different places. I have to pop the casing open every time I install one to see where they are.

Doug, on the microswitch inside the housing, there is one terminal that sits on top by itself and two together on the back. You want to use the one on top by itself and the very next one down from it. The bottom terminal on the back is not used.

No, that's your gearbox. Just a flipped view.

Your attachments did not work. Does your gearbox look like this one? I'd just replace the spur gear, the seal, and the oring on the case.

You're quite welcome Doug.

Doug...if you install the new coil, there won't be any crud to catch...

Coil cleaner might just exacerbate the problem. You may find that it will continually slough off particles of rust. The coil change may be your best bet. Another option is to install one of these on the coil outlet before the injector. It'll catch the crud, so you can clean it out later. Y Strainer, High Pressure, 3/8 In NPT - Y and Basket Strainers - Filtration - 3CFR8 : Grainger Industrial Supply

Lance, it's doubtful. If it is bad, it's bad. Kinda like a lightbulb. If it were bad, the machine wouldn't start in the first place.

The engine stumbling around robbed you of a good electric supply, causing erratic burn, and most likely slobbering raw fuel on the insulation. And the iron pipe is not tempered.

Paul, is the switch connected to the ignition system or is it hooked to the fuel solenoid? He's still got spark.

No, you'll have to back off the pressure unless you change the pump pulley too. The pump is still going to spin at the same speed, giving you the same volume, but the engine will no longer be able to push the pressure and the gen too. Keep in mind, too, that the 5 hp figure is for full load on the generator. A generator with no load on it won't use any horsepower. Although I normally agree with Jerry (he's a smart dude), a generator rpm needs to be set according to frequency, not voltage. I have worked on generators that make 114 volts at 60 hz, and others that produce 125 volts at 60 hz. What you want is 61 - 62 hz no load, so the rpm drop under load will get you in the 60 hz range.

Not if the heat is causing it to break down. It would be cool, so the coil will test normal.

I'd definitely put some good rubber gas line on it. That looks like vinyl detergent tubing.

There's a setscrew hiding between the gear and the pump. Get it loose, and the gear should slide right off.

Next time it shuts down, pull a spark plug boot, put a screwdriver in it, get the screwdriver close to the engine, and crank it too see if you've got spark. What kind of tech advice is Espec giving you?

I'm thinking you have an ignition coil breaking down from the heat. Next time it stalls, remove the gun from the hose and see if it will start. It should run on one cylinder with no load.

Thanks for the plug Adam. I love referrals.

Series VFA/VFB | Visi-Float® Flowmeter | Dwyer Instruments

No Chris, just obscure. I've been dealing with them since the 70s.

Click Industries - Hot Water Look this over and call me.