Russ Johnson

More than likely a "manufacturer's spec"...probably 4.8 gpm @ 2800 or so. Steve, what pump do you currently have on that machine? If you stick with the same manufacturer and rpm rating, you won't need to drill new holes, change pulleys and belts, etc.

In the house I have a Panasonic cordless phone with a built in answering machine with 3 seperate mailboxes. I really prefer to use call forwarding because I feel that people want a body to talk to....

Run, Forrest, run!

Pretty bird.

You're going to spend about 30% more to save about 2% of your pressure. I don't think it's worth it.

It gives you something thicker than water to get a prime started and adds pliability to the flaps.

One of these would give you a better angle of impact and has a bar for low pressure chemical application and high pressure rinse.

Probably the valves...either debris or got dried out. Check them good for little pieces of crud holding them open. If you can't find anything, try putting a little oil on the rubber flaps and try running it again.

Even though the water pick up is at deck level, the water level in the tank, when full, would be close to the level of the pump. As water likes to find its own level, the water in the suction hose will be close to the pump, so the prime distance will be much shorter than you think. A belt drive will purge itself easily, but if it's a concern, you could install a high pressure ball valve on the outlet or the pump opposite the unloader and use it as a bleeder when you start up. I don't think you'll' have a problem, though.

Hawk is a good pump. The packing in them is interchangeable with the Kit 19 General. The plungers are longer, but the same OD.

USED to be Generals....just looked at their catalog on their website....those are the old Admiral Pumps, imported by Victor Midland, used by Tuff, bought by C Tech, who owns Landa. I stand corrected.

Landa is a General with a Landa sticker on it to try to trap you into buying parts from them.

It costs too much to add electric start to a recoil engine...starter, solenoid, charging system, flywheel, etc, etc.

Briggs recommends 30W detergent oil for temps above 40 degrees, and 10W-30 for below. I have filters for Honda, Briggs, and Kohler. Most Vanguards come with a recoil as well as an electric starter. If yours doesn't have the recoil, one can be added on.

A gallon of water weighs about 8 #. A gallon of 50% may weigh 8.5 - 8.75#, so you need about 4 - 4.5# of beads for every gallon of 50% that you would normally use.

Larry,how much 50% do you need per batch of chemical? Is there no way to add it to the blended liquids in the dry state? Let's say you need 30# of 50% per batch...just add 15# of beads at the end. I make chemicals from kits, the SH is always dry and goes in last. There's 16# of SH in a truck wash kit = 32# of 50%.

50% would be by weight. A 55 gallon drum of SH would run 500 - 550 lbs, so for 50% you need 250lbs. That'd be some HOT stuff.

Does insurance pay for Zyban? If not, ask your doctor for a prescription for Wellbutrin...same ingredients but insurance pays.

Well, there ya go...that's why I smoke so much...lmao!

Ain't it the truth!

24" lance & trigger $34.05 trigger only $20.84 cone nozzle $6.54

The only thing that would clog is the spark arrestor, the screen thing on the muffler. Removing it, loosening the soot with a brush, and blowing it out with compressed air is all that is needed.

I use re-useable ends for in shop or in field repairs, and have only had one pop off, but the rubber liner in the hose was bad.

That's when a little scale comes in handy....insulates the iron pipe.

That is a cool calculator. Helluva lot easier than algebra.