Russ Johnson

I was just "screwin'" with you and sent you an empty envelope. Let me see if I can dig up another one.

Epps 4430 has a pressure switch and a thermostat in addition to the main power switch. When you turn the switch on, you should get a stream of air coming up the stack. This would indicate that the burner motor is running. The light coming on on the switch tells me power is getting where it needs to go. First and easiest check is the pressure switch. Remove the cover on the side. You will see a micro switch with 3 wires connected. Start the machine, switch the burner on, and take a screwdriver and jump the top 2 terminals momentarily. If it doesn't light right off, shut it down. Remove the access panel where the main power switch is mounted. Take the wires off the thermostat and jump them with a short piece of wire. Repeat the above start / jump procedure. Still no fire? Shut it down. Here's where it gets a bit complicated. Inside the burner housing is a cad cell designed to drop the transformer out of the circuit after a flame front is established, saving battery amperage. Hinge the transformer open and find the red wire coming out of the transformer. It will go to the wire that is controlled by the cad cell. Remove it and hook it up to the wires that feed the burner motor, insulating any wires that are left disconnected. Close the trans former, and repeat the above start / jump. If it fires now, the cad cell has gone bad. It will work this way, but puts extra strain on the charging system. Unfortunately, as far as I know, the cad cell cannot be ordered sepeately, you must buy the complete transformer to replace it. If you have any questions during testing, call me on my cell 502-724-8491. should have it with me all afternoon.

Is it a 12 volt or 110 volt? Flow, pressure, or vacuum switch? Thermostat? What brand and model of machine? Is the burner running without firing, or does it run at all? Do you get a mist of fuel out the stack? I'll check back later and see if I can help.

I just saw pictures of Atlanta Speedway. What a mess. 25 to 40 million dollars damage. They said Atlanta got 5" of rain in 2 hours.

lol............................. :lgbounces

Good bargaining, Doolittle, sounds like you got a good deal.

Yeah, I need a green tip. Whadda ya mean what size? I told you, a GREEN one. LOL.

My only thought is will this be run full time or as a back up when your primary machine breaks or as an extra on really big jobs? Your return on your investment will depend on hours run per week. Sound like real similar set ups, one being a little smaller than the other. 4500 on the gauge?? Does it zero out when it's shut off? If not, this is evidence of possible past freezing.

Tony, you still looking for a setscrew? I just got a junk pump in today and it has one on it. PM me your address, and I' ll drop it in the mail.

Does it have an easy start valve on it? I have seen these give trouble in the past. Next time you start it, have some pliers handy and squeeze the easy start valve line off while it's sputtering. If the pressure straightens out, there's your problem.

Do you purge the lines of air before starting the machine?

I'll check a little later today and see if I have one...just threw out a bunch of old pumps.

Here in Louisville they expanded the airport...and wiped out an entire neighborhood.

Happy Birthday, Beth.

One word...butyl.

I'm going to show my ignorance, but what is IPE? I have seen it referred to many times but have no idea what it is.

BD-20 is a butyl based degreaser containing 6% butyl and sodium metasilicate. It works great on gutters and siding, is non toxic to plants, and can be mixed with bleach for mold and mildew. I have purchased various other butyl based products for testing and BD-20 has 50% more dissolved solids than the competitors. Barry may very well have been able to downstream BD-20 on his gutter work, as the stains were fairly light. At worst, it can be mixed 1:4 and brushed lightly with outstanding results. It can be purchased in gallons, 5 gallon pails, 55 gallon drums, and 3 part drum kits. All but the drums can be shipped Fed Ex non hazardous.

Oh no, Jon, you keep it.

You can't see it but there is an elbow on the muffler to blow exhaust up away from the tank. I looked at the parts breakdown, but it's not listed. I'll call them later.

Y'know what? Guilty or not...screwed up parents letting their kids stay there, HE LIKES SLEEPING WITH LITTLE BOYS. Sick SOB.

Your HydroTek? They make a stainless pipe to deflect the exhaust when they mount them on trailers with water tanks.

Yes, charging the battery. The number of coils determines the charging amperage. I would say that your diode is not at fault, then. They don't get hot and break down. They burn out and don't come back. You might try re-gapping the ignition coils, .25mm is a little tight.

#5, as well as #6 and #17 are the charging coils, depending on which system your engine has. They are under the flywheel.

#7 is the shut down diode assembly. It makes the electricity flow from the coils to ground to shut off spark. There is a possibility that it could be bad. I'll check tomorrow and see if there are any test specs for it.

Go to your room, doolittle.