Russ Johnson

Here's a link to the service instructions for General. GP Service Parts Breakdown A couple of things they don't mention: Internal pliers or a slide hammer puller can be used to extract the brass rings. Always replace the copper washers if you remove the plungers. I would rebuild as soon as possible, as it can only get worse. You've caught it now before major damage is done.

I don't care for their "shipping and handling" crap. I bought a pound of their acid de etch. Charge for "S&H" was $9.50. I ship FedEx and 1 lb. to anywhere in the continental US is $4.00 or less. I'm less than 500 miles away. Can't afford a box 'cause the margin is too tight.

A couple of more things to try. Check the gap between the mags and the flywheel. Should be .016" or .4mm. Do you or anyone you know own an electric meter that measures ohms of resistance? The spark plug caps have radio suppressors in them. The resistance through the cap should be 7.5-12.5 K ohms. Let's keep trying with this, Alan. Hate to see you buy a new engine for a $50.00 part. Troubleshooting is SO much easier when the machine is in front of you. Drive it on out here to KY (lol).

Cool. Call anytime.

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Not a problem... will send it tomorrow.

I have several laying around. Give me your address and I'll pop one in the mail.

Hey, OTP.. you say a trailer...enclosed or open? How big if enclosed, and is this engine on a hot water machine?

Vacation? What is that? I sprinted to Florida for a few days between Christmas and New Years. That's my slowest time. 14 hour drive each way kind of takes away from the vacation aspect a little.

The fuel pump for that engine really isn't too bad. $31.58. Honda part # 16700-ZL8-013

Honda branded fuel pumps are extremely expensive. An aftermarket replacement is less than $20.00. The small hose you saw is probably the carburetor bowl vent. There should be a number stamped on the block just below the starter. If you can get in to see it, get it for me. It will tell me exactly what configuration you have. Should look like GX620QAE2 or similar.

#1 is the vacuum operated fuel pump. There are 3 different filter confugurations shown for various engine changes. If you have a #6, then you won't have #16 or #21. The #9 oil level switch exits the engine block down near the starter, the #10 pressure switch will be on the left side of the engine near the crankcase cover.

On Vanguards if the float valve in the carburetor doesn't close tightly, the gas gets in the cylinders then washes past the rings. All rings have gaps, and low viscosity liquids easily find them. This is not indicative of any internal damage or wear. Do you see your part in this pic?

Yes, the switch grounds the magneto coils so the engine will shut down in case of lack of lubrication. The white thing is probably the fuel pump. Retrace the lines..from the gas tank, to the carb, and to a crankcase vent for vacuum.

Did you get your pump fixed?

Here's a view of the GX620 crankcase. #9 is a low oil shut off switch, #10 is an oil pressure switch. Depending on which configuration you have, locate the switch, disconnect it, and see if it will start.

She says shut up.....you listen.

I used to wash houses and mobile homes in FL in the '70's. Started out with a 5 hp, 4 gpm, 1,000 psi unit and thought I was all that when I got a 4 gpm, 2,000 psi electric start Briggs 11 hp. Used to get $29.95 for a singlewide and could knock it out in 20 min.

Ain't it the truth, Jon. Ain't it the truth.

Hey, Classicpw, what about the pump? Is it fixed?

I have turned a machine similar to that into a horizontal hot box to exhaust out of a pickup with a topper. If you're going to do that, though, you will have to build a completely different pump / engine unit. Do you know any decent welders? Moving a few of the pieces of the frame around and relocating the fuel tank will give you your hotbox base. Is the burner 220 volts? You will have to change that to 12 volt to run off the battery or 120 volts to run off an extension cord or plug in to a generator. Looking at the motor pulley diameter, I can tell you have a 3450 RPM motor, so that pulley diameter is what you want. However, the motor has a 1 1/8" shaft, where the gas engine has a 1" shaft. If the pulley isn't a taper lock, you'll have to buy a new pulley. If it is taper lock, you'll only have to buy a bushing. Now you need a base for your pump / engine and a belt guard...safety first. Sounds like a pretty big project to me. You'd probably be well off to use what you've got as a trade in on a new or good used unit already set up for your purpose. The K7 is an excellent unloader if it's plumbed and sized properly.

Yep, water in the oil. Definitely will need repacking and possibly plungers. If it's a Cat or General, cracks are easy to see on the white plumgers. AR and Comet use brown plungers. They have to be inspected carefully under a good light. Check the plunger rods for play in and out. If they're damaged, just get a new pump. If you take the plungers off, make sure to replace all the washers and o rings under them.

The K3, K5, and K7's all have to bypass 5% to work properly. They are not like a trapped pressure, where you can shut off bypass completely. If you've still got one laying around, send it to me, I'd like to take a look at it. Who knows, maybe you'll get it fixed for the price of postage.

First, you will need approximately 2x the gas horsepower than the electric motor. Then, I assume your machine has a 1725 rpm motor, you will need to change the pulley on the pump or engine to reduce the speed. Write back on here or pm me with motor pulley diameter, pump pulley diameter, motor hp, and pump model, and I'll help you get it together.

What failure did you encounter????