Russ Johnson

Honda or vanguard?

I would recommend looking for a pump with an externally mounted unloader. If the unloader fails, and ruins the housing, you get a new unloader. On the TX, you'll have to replace the whole manifold...probably about as much as a new pump.

They used to use them to shut off the flow of fuel to the burner instead of an electrically controlled solenoid. The bypass line is orificed to create back pressure against the valve, shutting it off. If you run your bypass line to the tank, you'll have to install a solenoid on the burner, and a switch to control it.

Oh, I misunderstood. I thought you were referring to the bypass. Yeah, hose barbs won't work well under pressure. But you can remove the JIC fittings and replace the hoses with 3/8" mpt.

Hose #5. Goes to a Clippard valve? I haven't seen one of those in ages.

A manufacturer's choice. You could remove the JIC fittings and hose barb it.

Your inlet plumbing is horrible too. Always use brass, plastic, or stainless fittings for the inlet...no galvanized or black iron. Those 2 tees also give you the equivalent of 2 elbows too. I'd take the suction line off where it is and straight hose barb it into the opposite side of the pump head.

That suction hose isn't any good. You need either fiber braid or spiral reinforced tubing. When it gets warm this summer sitting in the sun, it'll suck itself flat. But anyway, what does the rest of the inlet system look like? Any elbows? Maybe a clogged strainer? Hose clamp loose? Is there enough water above the tank outlet? When a pump is drawing, a little whirlpool can form, allowing air in the suction stream.

Bd200

Good for you.

That is an xjet copy, but that's not how to do it. The larger nozzles I mentioned will allow your chem injector to work, then the smaller ones will shut it off for rinsing.

A hot ball valve probably wouldn't feel good for long. A regular or linear trigger gun would be better. You could couple the "shooter tips" right at the gun outlet. Shooter tips are 0030, 0040, 0050, etc. Basically a zero degree nozzle with a huge orifice which will allow a downstream injector to activate. You could use zero tips for reach at different pressures too. With your 3.5 gpm, a #00055 would give you about 2,000 psi, and a 00075 would net you about 1,000 psi.

2500 watts should be sufficient. It takes about 1800 watts to start a burner, but only about 600 watts to run it. If you start the burners at different times, you should be fine with 2500 or so. Keep in mind, too, that the horsepower to do a full 4000 may be 8, but if a 4000 watt generator is only pushing 2000 watts, then the horsepower needed will decrease as well.

Why on earth do you need a new engine? Fix the charging system on the current one. As far as the burner goes, the first thing I'd check would be the pressure switch.

That's hydrofluoric acid John. It's some real ugly stuff, but not much can truly replace it for what it does.

The label.

Hydrochloric acid is a very aggressive acid. It can be used to remove concrete residue from surfaces, etch the surface of concrete in preparation for refinishing, it can be used to remove rust from metals.

Roof Snot is a chlorine stable surfactant. N9.5 is a surfactant used in many acidic and caustic cleaning detergents. It, however, will eat chlorine up.

No. Fire 'em up and run it.

Get both a left hand and right hand drive and mount them on either side of the engine, heads out for easy service. Don't forget the belt guard.

The sealing system is slightly different.

XW, SXW, XWA SXWA...all really good pumps.

The NorthStar pump is probably a Comet, a decent pump, but I'd go for the AR XW series. I prefer them over the general TSF.

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Regardless whether you dual feed or not, lose the thermal valve. You won't need it bypassing back to your tank, and all it's going to do later is leak and suck air.