Russ Johnson

With a trapped pressure unloader, you don't need any bypass at all to work properly. That applies to a flow actuated unloader (General K3, K5, K7). And, yes, that test will work on your unloader.

Get a pair of pliers and pinch the bypass line off while spraying. If the pressure goes up, the unloader is not pushing all the water through the outlet. Unloaders can also be bad if you get full pressure while spraying. When you release the trigger, instead of unloading the pressure from the pump, they act as a regulator and maintain pressure in the pump head. This can burn up a pump rather quickly.

My thoughts on burner systems...

Got any free Playboys????

What model pump is on the machine?

Aborted fetus purple

very punny.

No, No, No. Butyl based degreasers work best on gutters.

The pump cycling while spraying won't hurt anything except maybe the little microswitch on top. These are available at most appliance parts houses - the same one goes in the door of a microwave. You'll have to cut off the terminal that doesn't match yours (they come with 3 terminals, you only need 2).

You are quite welcome. Call anytime.

Doesn't matter. As long as it's slippery. I even use oil when there's no grease available.

Yeah, Scott, the head slides on a whole lot easier, and reduces the risk of tearing a seal.

Don't forget to grease the plungers before you try to slide the manifold on.

You are quite welcome. Happy cleaning.

EacoChem makes masonry restoration chemicals. Check them out. NewAgain has come out with a new roof cleaner without SH, they sent me a sample, but I've yet to try it. Maybe this weekend. I'll report back and let you know how it turns out.

TAXES???? Here in KY Gov. Ernie Fletcher and his entourage attended the Kentucky Derby. The bill to the taxpayers? Over $300,00.00. Can't fund homeland security when there are many other more important issues.

A thermostat is made to regulate temperature, a high limit is to prevent the water from turning to steam and damaging a machine and its components. Thermostats are designed to cycle numerous times, a high limit will wear out if cycled continuously. The range of temperature difference on a thermostat is relatively small, while, as I stated above, a high limit has to cool completely to reset. The biggest pain in the butt about lp burners is related to the surface area of the gas in the bottles. Vapors boil out of the liquid, so the tank diameter will severely limit output. I have found that siamesing 2 or 3 bottles together will provide much better gas vapor flow. Another option would be forklift bottles designed to lay on their side. There's more surface area in a 40# bottle on its side than a 100# upright cylinder. Hey, Bryan, did you find your problem?

Hey, Bryan. That burner should run as long as you don't run out of fuel. Does your machine have a thermostat, a high limit switch, or both? A thermostat will regulate temperature with only a slight variation, a high limit has to be stone cold to reset. Are the nozzles in your surface cleaner sized for your machine's output? If the flow is restricted slightly, the water may tend to get too hot and open the high limit. Could be, too, that the high limit is defective and is opening too soon. One other flukey thing to check is fuel tank venting. If the vent is clogged or otherwise inoperative in your fuel cap, the fuel pump will pull a vacuum on your tank and the fuel flow will stop. As soon as the burner stops firing, remove the fuel cap. If it relights, there's your problem. If not, get a pressure / temp gauge or find a service tech with one and see at what temp your burner is dropping out. A circuit breaker tripping can also cause the symptoms you describe. Happy hunting.

Heck, Reed, that IS fast food in Iraq. I'd like a McSpider with a side of flies, please.

I'll bet that hydrofluoric will get it. Just be careful.

A very lovely lady there, Ryan. You look quite pleased with yourself for landing her. Best of luck throughout all your married life. Give 90%, expect 10% in return, and live happy.

That pump should be easy to fix, as long as the water and oil mix hasn't been run too long. Packing and plungers are fairly easy to replace. AR pumps usually have brown plungers in them, and they're a little tougher to find cracks in than white like Generals, so look them over carefully under a good light. A couple of tips for a first time pump rebuilder: When you remove the head, the packing will most likely stay on the plungers. It must be stuffed in the head, not reinstalled on the plungers. When you remove the plungers, plan on replacing the o ring and both washers on the plunger rod. The washers not only seal the end of the plunger, but also offer a crush surface to take up any small irregularities in the mating surfaces. A slight irregularity and an already crushed washer will crack the new plunger when you tighten it. Grease everything while you are installing it and it will go together much easier. Go to the AR website and you can find parts breakdowns for pumps. Good luck. www.annovireverberi.it

I think that chopper pilot is drunk.

2004's are beautiful. I've got a 94 3500 crew dually 4x4 6.5 diesel and I love it. I'll probably let a 04 get a few years on it and trade up. Would much rather have a Duramax.

Sorry, meant no harm...just tryin' to help out.