Russ Johnson

Yes, it's fine.

No different than if it were on the head of the pump...

That is a high pressure relief valve. If the unloader is set too high or fails to unload, that valve pops off before something else more costly does. It may have just gone bad, too.

You want the 3.5 orifice for your pressure washer, and I'd use silica sand or Black Beauty slag

Joe is right. Take it to a mechanic so the wiring can be traced and hooked up properly. All we can do here is guess, and it could make matters worse.

Shoot, retirement came and went and I missed it...:D

Methinks fartwhistle is inferring that I am old?...

um....no.

Jeff, that class won't do squat for you. It only covers Briggs Power Products (Troy Built, Brute from Wal Mart, etc.). He'll learn how to fix Home Depot specials. Give me a call and let me know what he needs to learn.

Nah, I don't need any of that, just the business...:cell:

How old is the machine? Could be your inlet seals are getting tired, and are allowing a bit of air suction.

I think I'll start a 1-900 fix my pressure washer phone line. $4.99 a minute. Hey, as long as I help someone troubleshoot a problem, and they buy parts from me, I never mind taking calls at all. The ones that tick me off are the guys who call my toll free line (I pay per minute on), I help them figure out what's wrong, then go buy the parts somewhere else because they were $5.00 cheaper, but no technical backup. It happens...rarely...but it happens. Kinda like if I asked you how you would go about cleaning my house, then I hire a booger pickin' kid from the neighborhood and have him wash it as you would... However, on the other hand, Adrian, I'd never expect someone to wait to get common hardware from me, when the local Ace Hardware has all you need, or if it's something I just can't get (Hotsy parts for example).

Don't take the coil apart. Hook hoses up to back flush it. Remove the hose going from the unloader to the coil, and hook it up to the coil outlet, and start it up.

Butyl based degreasers are good at removing rubber tire marks (think forklifts in a warehouse), but I have no idea how the "glazed finish" will fare.

Double check your oil level. The splashing around in the engine may be pulling oil away from the switch. As Tracy said, could be the filter. As Pat said, the cap may be defective, but go buy a new cap.

http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/members/netspider.html

HF acid treatment card I highly recommend any users of hydrofluoric acid print this out and keep it in your vehicle in case of an accident so EMTs and hospital doctors can have easy access to it. You'd be surprised how many doctors have no idea how to properly treat HF exposure. This is a little fuzzy. I have this document attached as a pdf file. HF_medical_book.pdf

An open flow can show signs of pulsation because there's no back pressure to make the pump force the water out. With the open hose, the 3 pistons just belch water out one at a time.

Mark, call me tomorrow around 9:00. We'll get it figured out.

That is an adjustable set point pressure switch. You can set it to activate between 100 and 1,500 psi. Max pressure rating is 8,000 psi. See page 4 for more info. http://www.ueonline.com/bulletins/10-b.pdf

I have copied this post. Never tick me off... :D

The AP550 is an Admiral Pump part number. What you have is an MV550, made in Italy. It is rated 8 gpm, 3,600 psi, and is a trapped pressure style.

Unloaders built into or bolted onto the manifold of the pump cannot be bypassed to a tank. All others (trapped pressure, flow controlled, regulating) can be plumbed to bypass to your tank. For more detail on how to, post a pic of your unloader.

Another one I refuse to write...Merry Xmas...who the heck is "X"? Malcom?

As it was explained to me, the "mole" rating involves the clarity at certain temps. A 14 mole stays clearer at lower temps than a 9 or 9.5. Doesn't affect the usage of either in formulating these kinds of detergents.