Russ Johnson
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Posts posted by Russ Johnson
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There's a very small o ring at the top of the swivel that goes bad after a period of time...pretty easy to replace. I've got them and can tell you how to put it in. Call me.
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The engine bog tells me that the motor is ok...that's the motor drawing lots of amps to get started. Could be the flow/pressure/vacuum switch (depending on which your machine uses) or the thermostat/high limit switch...could be the transformer...maybe a bad fuel pump or stripped coupling in the burner. Call me if you like, and I'll try to talk you through a few tests.
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Oliver the cat
Pearl the French Bulldog
The two of them think the shelves in my showroom are bunk beds
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Almost sounds like crud in the main jet. You need to drop the bowl off the carb and clean it out. You may have to remove the main jet to clean it.
The Kohler CH15 has a fixed jet...no adjustment is possible except for idle mixture, which doesn't come in to play at WOT (wide open throttle).
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Would a wagner paint crew 770 work well for this, or something else.Do NOT buy a Paint Crew. I service Wagner products, and this is the one I've seen the most problems with. The Apex 1620 is a good unit. Most of the time when I see one of those, it's operator error...usually improper cleaning. I've got a refurbished 1620 for sale. Lowe's gets $425.00 for it new, I'll take $275.00 and give you a 90 day warranty.
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Could be the motor or the solenoid. The solenoid serves 2 purposes...engage the bendix into the flywheel and make connection for the starter motor. The first thing I would do would be to hook the positive cable directly to the power lead in to the motor and see if it spins. If it does...motor fine, solenoid not. If it doesn't...motor bad, solenoid still in question, although probably good.
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Put the 3/8 on the machine first, then the 1/4, or it won't draw.
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Let me know what you're needing...I'll get you a price.
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Just remove the adjustable nozzle, put a coupler socket on in place of it, and buy some quick connect tips to go in it.
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My pleasure...
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Duct tape will take short term blasts with sand...you'll have to use a solvent to remove the glue...or just learn to color inside the lines...:D
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Steel hydraulic fittings are best, schedule 80 iron pipe second, schedule 40 iron or galvanized third, brass last.
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Well, after sandblasting, your surface should have ample "profile" for any coating to grip well.
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How about a Rhino Liner type coating?
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Nah...way too much discord...
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The glass "bubble" is a sediment bowl designed to trap crud that is headed for your carburetor. It has probably either shrunk up or cracked...either way it needs to be replaced. If you don't have a local Robin dealer handy, let me know and I'll hook ya up.
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A good cause...I did my time last year...it's all about the kids...
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45's are ok...as long as the exhaust flows upward, it's alright. 90's and horizontal runs are bad.
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i found this pic on some forum a little while back....is this sufficient spacing between the machine and the piping? in your opinion is my dealer trying to rip me off telling me that it costs $130 just for the adapter. What the tape covers up is the 'hack job' cutting that he did to get it to form around the coil. he taped it because he probably used regular scissors to cut the metal! No sheet metal screws either...just tape holding that in place...If there are any ALKOTA dealers on this site please pipe in. i can't believe that Alkota would not offer an adapter for their machines. I will be visiting an HVAC place on monday to get his exhaust done right. Thanks for your advice guys.....keep it coming.Yes, that is a perfect example of the spacing needed.
Seems to me, too, that part of your exhaust port is covered with sheet metal, further blocking the flow.
None of the machine manufacturers offer exhaust adapters that I know of.
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Looks like a register boot for a HVAC system...it will not last long exposed to high stack temps. I also do not like the fact that it is sealed to the machine...you need an air gap between the collector and the machine for make up air to promote proper drafting, or the coil will soot up. A burner fan is designed to push enough air for proper combustion...it is not there to push spent exhaust gasses up a stack. I have custom collectors made in a HVAC sheet metal shop out of heavy gauge metal. A good one will run you around the $130.00 you paid for that. Check your local Yellow Pages for HVAC supply houses and call and see if they do "in house" fabrication. They'll help you with the design and everything.
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I tried to rent a truck several months ago to tow a large trailer. Every agency I called told me that their trucks were not set up for towing because they don't allow their vehicles to be used for that purpose...
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Down here I cannot find sand but they have soda or Black Beauty (copper slag) and it is about $6.00 per 50 pound bag. I am wondering if you had a bigger air compressor if it would be more cost effective to just sand blast it or is it still less expensive to water sand blast it?Black Beauty is actually the stuff I was using. It's as sharp as silica, but cheaper. I would imagine a really huge job might go a little faster with an industrial compressor and sand pot, but you've got to be hooded, sutied, gloved, and wear breathing protection. Wet sandblasting requires a good pair of closed sided goggles. I also recommend a hat to keep some of the sand out of your hair.
Having to open gun to start engine
in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
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Greg, if your unloader has a built in easystart feature, they are supposed to be mounted vertically. I don't really know what they do if you mount them horizontally...I've never tried to.