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Russ Johnson

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Posts posted by Russ Johnson

  8. Posted · Report reply

    [YT]R0PvkI2BADo[/YT]

    This is a video of me sandblasting a steel chair. It's a piece of cake. "Rust Ban" will prevent flash rusting and can be painted over without further cleaning or rinsing.

    You'll notice in the video, the sand inlet hose is always held above the nozzle and the gun is rested with the nozzle in a downward position. This keeps water from tricklin back into the sand hose. If the sand gets wet, it won't draw.

    This is the "medium duty" kit from Ultimate Washer, but can be had for less.

    It's all you'd need for occasional use.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    If you are getting fuel to the solenoid valve, but none comes through, it could be one of several things. Firstly, take the coil off the solenoid (remove the little nut and slide it up off the post. Get a magnet, start the machine, turn the burner on, and slide the magnet along the post on the valve. If it fires' the valve itself is ok. Next, open the ignitor. Find the wires to the solenoid. One should be bundled in with a wire fron the ignitor and a wire from the motor. The other wire should be attached to only one wire. Remove the single wire and bundle it with the other wire going to the ignitor and motor (not the same bundle as the first solenoid wire). Cap all connections, close the ignitor, start the machine, and turn on the burner. If it lights, all is well with the burner assembly. Rewire everything back where it was and close the ignitor.

    Now we have to go after the switches. Pressure switch, flow switch, vac switch, high limit switch, and / or thermostat. Bypassing a switch involves disconnecting the wiring going to a switch and connecting the wires that the switch was connected to together. Do them one at a time, rewiring properly before continuing to the next. A thermostat is the easiest. If you have a jumper wire with alligator clips, just clip the wire between the terminals. After bypassing each switch, do a test fire until you trace it down.

    Or drive to Louisville and see me...

  14. Posted · Report reply

    The only way you could run a 12 volt burner is with a constantly charged battery. So, you need either an engine with a 20 amp charging system, or you hook it to your truck battery and leave the truck running while you're using hot water.

    Propane is self contained, no outside power source is needed. You'll have to make sure you have reserve fuel, as it not as readily available as diesel.

    120 volt requires you to buy a generator (2500 watt or larger), or get a huge extension cord to plug in at your customer's location (provided electricity is even available).

    Wayne - Beckett...flip a coin. They both produce heat...that's about it.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    A propane fired heater has a "power pile" thermocouple. Basically, once you light the pilot, the thermocouple creates voltage to open and close the gas valve. The only drawback to this system is a ready supply of extra fuel. You need to make real sure you've got extra because LP is not as readily available as kerosene or diesel.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    In case the inside of coil tubing is being refered to.....

    How often is subjective to amount of use. Unhook a line and see if there is any buildup on the inside of tubing. Might want to clean it with coil cleaner if it gets thicker then say a thin finger nail or if there is noticable flow differenece or noticable heating difference. Personally I just hook a flojet up as a loop and cycle about a 20% mixture of hydrochloric through for but a minute or two.Then I change the fluid out and do it again until it comes out clean. I follow up with a fresh water flush before hooking lines back up...

    I hope you're buying "inhibited hydrochloric, or muriatic". Regular muriatic will eat iron...

    I use a phosphoric mix that is used for descaling kitchen dishwashers...it's safe for the metals and does a really good job. Check a commercial kitchen or cleaning supplier for a source.

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