Russ Johnson
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Posts posted by Russ Johnson
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They make a special coupler to thread connect aluminum wands together. The threads are recessed so the strain is on the pipe, not the threads.
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3 nozzle broom, use #2502, 4 nozzle use #25015
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Hello-Now that I have used my newly rebuilt 110v Hotsy machine , I have noticed that the burner, burns very well, no black smoke, no white smoke just clear exhaust and it lights everytime.
But........... I wish the water was hotter. For example when I power wash the wand is too hot to hold, I have to use the handle on the wand if the burner has been going for more that a minute or so, and the hose gets hot as well. But the water the comes out when it splashes and hits my feet feels just warm, and surface that I am cleaning never gets actaully hot.Atmospheric cooling begins as soon as the water clears the coils, and more so once it clears the nozzle. Get a cheap infrared thermometer (about $29.00 at Harbor Freight) and check wand pipe temp near the gun, at the end of the wand, water stream 1" from the nozzle and 12" from the nozzle...you'll see what I mean.
Can I adjust the bands to get more heat? Like wood burning stove just cut some air flow? No, you'll make it smoke.
do I need a larger volume kerosene nozzle? Maybe, or an increase in fuel pressure.
Does diesel burn hotter that Kerosene?Yes
The thermostat on the machine is cranked all the way up, so the burner heats anytime the trigger is pulled until you release it.
Am I being silly? or can I make this thing really get hot?
Thanks again for the advice!
Kyle
You should be at a max temp of 200 degrees at the discharge of the coil. If not, a 1/4 gph larger fuel nozzle could help or increasing the fuel pressure may get you where you want to be. Either way, you will need to readjust the air bands for the increased fuel volume. I wouldn't do the bypass the water thing...unless you get a professional shop to covert it to a combination machine (steam or hot water)...you could mess the machine up or get hurt...
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Not necessarily......:lgangel:Well, it'll up the odds anyway...
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How about a sewer cleaning nozzle mounted on 1/4" braided steel hose?
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I carry a gun....38...I will use it if I'm forced to, and I'll worry about repercussions later...I'll still be alive.
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Stretching the spring increases the closing pressure of the bypass valve (nothing to do with operating pressure), snapping it closed faster when the flow starts. The ZK1 is a completely different design. It does not have this spring in it.
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Hydro Tek has an 8 and a 9 at 3,000 hot skid.
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Does that machine still have the original float tank or are you pressure feeding the pump with the hose? It must have a float tank for the pump to draw from in order to create the vacuum to draw soap as well. If the tank is gone, a downstream injector and pressure reducing nozzle will work in its place.
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Funny, he said the burner worked when I bought it, that was a lie.You forgot the crumpled newspaper...lol
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Chris,
Your Hydro Tek probably has a K7 on it... here's a little trick. Remove the bottom cover ( 13 mm head bolts), pull the piston out, and remove the spring underneath. Stretch the spring a little, but evenly. Grease the rubber cup on the piston and reassemble it. Should hit every time.
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Should slide out the back after you remove the burner head. I have had to take a 2X4 down the stack to pry them out.
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If it is a true 4.5 gpm, a #45 nozzle nets 4,000 psi. You need a #5 for about 3,200 psi.
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I'm being locked up. Thursday, Oct. 19th they're going to cart me off and I need bail money. Apparently, over the Labor Day weekend, Jerry didn't do a good enough job, so I'm being persecuted for his shortcomings. I've got to do hard time at Longhorn Steak House until I can raise $1200.00 bail. Please help if you can by following the link, and get me out....but not before lunch...
https://www.mdaevent.org/ParticipantInfo.aspx?j=e15f9552-29cd-4e80-bcc9-b5e05dabdb04
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Do the 110 volt, you'll be much better off.
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Joe, you need any help getting it set up, call me.
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On a regulating unloader there are 2 nuts on the stem..1 for maximum set pressure and 1 to set minimum. If you get these nuts set properly once, you just have to run the knob to your preset limits..all the way in for pressure washing, all the way out for carpets. Removes the guesswork.
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Use 1 regulating unloader equipped with a knob to reduce system pressure / flow and a thermostat. With the proper nozzle combination on your floor tool, you'll be where you want to.
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Barry, you're vicious...I like it.
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I have a Hotsy Pump on my Hotsy machine, but because of its age no seals, or anything for that matter are available for it. I wonder if this is standard for manufacturers to do at a certain point or if its just Hotsy, but no matter how good the pump is if you cant service it, its days are limited.Something to consider when buying!
Don't be too sure...what model pump?
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Not necessarily. As long as the arc has a good jumping off point, they'll be fine.
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Once upon a time....
That switch was the industry standard. Very durable, large, high amp switch. They apparently got too expensive for manufacturers to use.
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Kyle, I noticed from the pics you emailed me that the bottom of the coil jacket has rotted down to the coil inlet. You'll have to weld a short skirt of metal around the base to get the port lined back up with the hole in the skin.
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The "flame out" would indicate a clogged filter or an obstruction in the fuel tank.
Connecting extensions
in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
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Yes, they do.