Russ Johnson
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Posts posted by Russ Johnson
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Might have cracked some part of the inlet when it dropped. Check where the garden hose hooks up, the strainer, hose barb for bypass. Post a couple of pics from different angles.
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On occassion we will clean the mold off one of the blocked up cars just for the fun of it.....LMAO....
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Yeah...they START at $30.00...single wide. I used to wash trailers in Daytona in '78 - '84. Got $29.95 for a single and $10.00 for any extras ( double wide, carport, tool shed, etc.) Got fast enough to do a single in 20 min. Walked out of the better ones (see above) with $60 - $70 for an hours work. Plus the neighbors see you and want estimates. Doing trailers depends on the clientelle and location, too. Here in KY people own a trailer because that's all they can afford...no money left to pay a cleaner. FL retired and snowbirds got the cash to spend. Of course, there's the other kind, too.
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The on / off set point can be adjusted by the set screw on top. Those little switches don't like high amperage, so a relay would be in order.
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3600 PSI
8 GPM
300 Degrees
1/4"
$16.04
2845 PSI
10.5 GPM
194 Degree
1/4"
$20.06
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Oxalic...40# in a 5 gallon pail - $50.00
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To sum up for most people and families, a squirrel would not make a good pet.But with the right fixin's, would make a decent entree.
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1965 Chevy Impala SS, 327 ci, 2 speed Powerglide trans. in beautiful condition for $500.00. Back then it was "just an old car". It was 12 years old whan I bought it. Next one was a '66 Imp SS convertible. Now own a '94 Imp SS. See a pattern here?
My favorite? A toss up between the '66 SS and a '58 Imp...remember American Grafitti????
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Is there ANY water in your fuel? The adjusting piston in the fuel pump can rust and stick. You know the fitting with the adjusting screw in it? Remove the whole fitting (11/16" wrench) and the fitting opposite it where the fuel comes out. There are springs in there (sometimes 1, sometimes 2), so don't lose them...they won't come flying out at you. Use a Phillips screwdriver and see if you can push the piston out. If not, get a hammer and drive it out. Polish the piston with fine sandpaper and use the Phillips screwdriver to stuff the corner of a rag through the bore where it was. Gat ahold of it and run it back and forth..like polishing a shoe.., lubricate the piston with WD 40 or similar, and put it back together.
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Straight out of the can....sop a rag real well and get the glue WET. Let it sit for a minute or so and drag it off with a razor. Wipe off any residue with a clean rag soaked in dlimonene, then use window cleaner. 'Taint an easy job. Wear neoprene gloves, too. It won't hurt you (I did it bare handed) but your hands will smell like you work at Minute Maid...lol.
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dLimonene is a citrus extract and is water soluble. I get mine from a chemical wholesaler where I get all my raw materials. It ain't cheap...almost $650.00 a drum, but you may be able to find 5 gallon quantities.
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Use straight dLimonene. I stripped some film from my daughter's car. Still had to scrape with a razor, but it rolled right up.
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What model pump is currently on it? Might be able to get a pump with the same footprint to save drilling new holes.
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After servicing pressure washers for 30 years, I can personally vouch for the 120 volt system. They don't depend on as many variables to run properly. A 12 volt DEPENDS on the battery, battery cables and connections, the charging system on the engine,which, in itself is a source of many variables, the ambient temperature,a cold battery is weaker,like a baby depends on a mothers milk. With a 120 volt, you've got a durable generator and a belt. As long as the engine runs at the specified speed and the belt is tight, the rest is exactly the same ( motor, transformer, fuel pump, etc.). Let the voltage drop off for any reason, and a 12 volt could fry a transformer or solenoid coil. The electrical components on a 120 volt are also less expensive to replace when the time comes. I have seen 10 year old 120 volts running just fine. As a side note, you guys with 12 volt systems, as a part of your maintenence program, when you do your tune ups ( once a year), check the brushes in your motor if they are accessible. If the carbon brush wears out and the copper wire hits the rotor it could burn out the motor. Brushes are cheaper than motors. Much cheaper.
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They should be interchangeable. If you remove the pistons be sure to use new washers when replacing them.
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Here's a list of kits for your pump:
Kit 1828 Valves - $32.84
Kit 1856 Oil Seals - $37.39
Kit 1857 Packing - $69.72
Kit 2546 Pistons - $106.36
You may only need the packing kit to cure your problem, but cracks are very difficult to detect in dark brown pistons. Make real sure to check them carefully. All the packing in the world can't seal against a cracked piston.
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I'll check tomorrow and post here.
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Man, go smack those people....
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Water does not lubricate like oil and rusts bearings. It must be checked immediately.
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Actually, water in the oil signifies packing and / or plunger damage, neither of which is covered by the warranty. Packing damage can only be caused by bypassing for too long or running dry. Parts are readily available for Generals. Post the model number and I'll look them up for you.
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ShurFlo's are easily rebuilt, There's a diaphragm, a valve cartridge, and a few o rings in the pressure switch activator. I always recommend that my customers mount the pumps upside down, so a leaking diapgragm won't cost them a motor.
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If your machine won't draw upstream (through the pump under high pressure), sounds to me like a lot of water is bypassing, decreasing pump vacuum. You're having a helluva time with that thing, aren't you?
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Rollover Nozzle Holder...
$16.04
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Mounts on the end of your lance. With a 1/4" QC on the outlet you can change tips. When you turn this, it opens around the perimeter, giving a shower type pattern, and lowering the pressure for injection. Turn it the other way and all the water comes out the nozzle.
6193 - $8.55
1282 - $11.27
1013 - $14.94
Now this is funny!
in The Club House
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Hilarious!!!