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Russ Johnson

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Posts posted by Russ Johnson


  1. Get a pair of pliers and pinch the bypass line off while spraying. If the pressure goes up, the unloader is not pushing all the water through the outlet. Unloaders can also be bad if you get full pressure while spraying. When you release the trigger, instead of unloading the pressure from the pump, they act as a regulator and maintain pressure in the pump head. This can burn up a pump rather quickly.


  2. A thermostat is made to regulate temperature, a high limit is to prevent the water from turning to steam and damaging a machine and its components. Thermostats are designed to cycle numerous times, a high limit will wear out if cycled continuously. The range of temperature difference on a thermostat is relatively small, while, as I stated above, a high limit has to cool completely to reset. The biggest pain in the butt about lp burners is related to the surface area of the gas in the bottles. Vapors boil out of the liquid, so the tank diameter will severely limit output. I have found that siamesing 2 or 3 bottles together will provide much better gas vapor flow. Another option would be forklift bottles designed to lay on their side. There's more surface area in a 40# bottle on its side than a 100# upright cylinder. Hey, Bryan, did you find your problem?


  3. Hey, Bryan. That burner should run as long as you don't run out of fuel. Does your machine have a thermostat, a high limit switch, or both? A thermostat will regulate temperature with only a slight variation, a high limit has to be stone cold to reset. Are the nozzles in your surface cleaner sized for your machine's output? If the flow is restricted slightly, the water may tend to get too hot and open the high limit. Could be, too, that the high limit is defective and is opening too soon. One other flukey thing to check is fuel tank venting. If the vent is clogged or otherwise inoperative in your fuel cap, the fuel pump will pull a vacuum on your tank and the fuel flow will stop. As soon as the burner stops firing, remove the fuel cap. If it relights, there's your problem. If not, get a pressure / temp gauge or find a service tech with one and see at what temp your burner is dropping out. A circuit breaker tripping can also cause the symptoms you describe. Happy hunting.


  4. That pump should be easy to fix, as long as the water and oil mix hasn't been run too long. Packing and plungers are fairly easy to replace. AR pumps usually have brown plungers in them, and they're a little tougher to find cracks in than white like Generals, so look them over carefully under a good light. A couple of tips for a first time pump rebuilder: When you remove the head, the packing will most likely stay on the plungers. It must be stuffed in the head, not reinstalled on the plungers. When you remove the plungers, plan on replacing the o ring and both washers on the plunger rod. The washers not only seal the end of the plunger, but also offer a crush surface to take up any small irregularities in the mating surfaces. A slight irregularity and an already crushed washer will crack the new plunger when you tighten it. Grease everything while you are installing it and it will go together much easier. Go to the AR website and you can find parts breakdowns for pumps. Good luck. www.annovireverberi.it


  5. Rocco, I believe I may have what you're looking for. I am not real familiar with Delco's model numbers, but I think the washer you have is manufactured by Ramteq for Delco. Does your machine have the gas and diesel tanks stacked to the left of the engine? I have a used coil for a CH1600 Ramteq that was installed in a customer's machine about 6 months before the rest of the machine fell apart and he traded it in. I parted out his old machine and kept all the good parts. Your coil should have mounting tabs on the back for bolting to the burner head. If your insulation got wet, you probably need to replace it, too.

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