Aplus

If you're going to stain with a solid latex, you don't even have to strip the old stuff. A good washing, brush off any flakes/peelings when dry, and stain away. Not even worth trying to strip the acrylic latex stuff. Never comes out good enuff to satisfy for a nice semi-trans finish.

Harbor Freight - 2 inch white china bristle brushes. About 12.00 for a case of 36. Works every bit as good as the pricier ones. I know cuz I've been using them for about 14 years.

The Flood I'm seeing must be newer, it's called TWF, wonder if it's just a re-name of the awful CWF? I asked the guy at the ICI store why they are carrying Flood? He said that's the direction corporate is going and he can't do anything about it. Amazing how that particular store sells dozens of pallets of TWP yet he has no influence whatsoever with corporate. I know for sure the FLood crap will not sell to the pros and that store will lose hundreds of thousands of dollars when it's all done.

Howdy all!! Been a long time. A lot has happened during my absense, but I've missed everyone, and still hanging on power washing. I hope the economy straightens around soon, sheesh already. Been looking at the Armstrong line but the fact it has vegetable oil in it seems alarming, as though it may be a food for mildew and algae. My local paint store (ICI Dulux)where I get my TWP does not yet have firm info whether they are going to carry the new TWP or switch entirely to Flood products, which they have already brought in the store. Yuck.

I have used TWP Cedartone 101 for over 12 years with outstanding results. Starting in 2010 I will no longer be able to purchase it in Michigan. Does anybody know of a good quality, strippable oil stain that has a very similar color to the TWP? I ask because I have not found a local product with that distinct orange/cedar color that many of my customers request. Thanks.

I use a citrus cleaner on my own which works well.

None of the commercially prepared awning cleaners I use contain butyls. Sometimes I add a few chems to spice up the mix a bit, but again, not a butyl based product. Like Rod said, test first.

Why don't you take some pix and post them here? It would be great to see how the job turned out for you.

As Ken stated, those are the downfalls. But since you asked if you can use a roller, yes you can, but you may need to brush to get between the boards. And as long as you roll the length of the boards (with the grain), and keep a wet edge, you won't have a problem with roller tracks showing. I use a roller for applying solid stain because I'm just not a big fan of spraying outside, since it always seems to be windy only on days when I would want to spray...lol! You would need an airless setup to spray the latex, well a homeowner Wagner would work too. When spraying latex, it's a good idea to mix in some Floetrol additive or something comparable to make it spray smoother.

I use a #9 on a dual lance so I can dial down or turn up when needed. The #9 ensures that too much pressure is not advertantly applied.

Flipping boards only works if the boards are straight cut on the ends. If they are miter cut, the cuts will be backwards when flipped. Also, many decks are nailed down with spiral shank nails, which do not come out without tearing the heck out of the board surface. There are chems used that can and will remove the solid stain, but I am not going to say what they are because they can be dangerous, and I'm not going to put it out there for others to hurt themselves. Replacing the floor boards would be the easiest, and likely cheapest way to remedy the problem. Cleaning, light sanding and restaining with a solid is only a temporary fix, and without a doubt in my mind will still fail and start peeling again. Going this route, you can plan on doing this process every year to keep the floor looking satisfactory. I've been in this biz for 12 years, and have encountered your situation so many times I can't even count them.

Two reasonable approaches as I see it. First, explain to the customer what has happened, regarding the UV exposure, etc. Either leave the rug off and deal with the lighter spot for a year or so, eventually it will blend in somewhat better. Or, put the carpet back down.

IMHO, hot water house washing appeals more as a marketing tool. It's easy to build a case for, and sell a wash job on the basis that hot water cleans better than cold. However, water conditions are different in various geographic regions, which is to say, some areas the water is harder, softer, or has more mineral content. All these things can affect the way detergents perform. In my location, I can get any house as clean with cold water as I can with hot.

I just use a spring clamp on the top of the pail to hold the hose in the bucket. Also, I prefer using a 6 gallon bucket, so I can get a full five gallon mix and carry it without sploshing all over.

Maybe I should use up my Northwest frequent flyer miles before it's too late!!