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Joe Chadwick

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Posts posted by Joe Chadwick

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I do two tone also. They certainly take longer to do so pricing is key, something I am still trying to perfect. As Reed said do the solid color first so you can tape and also sand any solid stain that gets on any wood that is not to be coated. I use either Flood Solid Stain with E-B Emulsa bond in it or Cabot's and I add the E-B to the Cabots. I never use Latex paint it peels to readily and what a mess

    E-B Emulsa-bond is a 3 in 1 oil based stir in bonder/primer/sealer for acrylics and other water based paint systems. Will not change color of the paint

    To assure adhesion of water-based paints to chalky, dusty, porous surfaces such as fibrous plaster, masonry, concrete, bricks, old wood, Kalsomine, oxidized aluminum cladding. To eliminate costly sealers and reduces time consuming preparation and to fortify the paint and extend the life of the coating

    E-B Emulsa-bond does not retard the drying time of the paint to which it is added

    E-B-Emulsabond is available in 1, 4, and 20 litres containers

    Adding 25% of E-B Emulsa-bond is sufficient for most painting jobs (1 liter E-B into 4 liters paint). Poor surfaces will benefit from a 50/50 blend

    E-B-Emulsa-bond extends paint coverage by ensuring an even paint film and a better spread

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I am in the process of bidding on a Mahogany deck sealed with Sikkens Cetol dek for yearly maintenance. Problems, the deck floor was not sealed on all six sides by previous contractor and the deck floor has started to fail, peeling, cracking and darkening of the wood in large areas. To bring the deck back what you do? Would a light sanding of the failed areas and one coat on these areas followed by a final coat on whole deck floor do the job or what? I also seemed to getting more requests to look at Sikkens finished decks for maintenance, what is everybody charging for this type of maintenance compared to easier type finishes to maintain?

    Thanks Joe

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