Paul Kassander

Brian, Sounds like you are a business man at heart, once you have the taste it is hard to work for others isn't it. For the roof cleaning you could probably get into a low pressure cleaning application with something like the Cyclone system and let the chems do the cleaning.

bingo!!!

A good caustic free cleaner is Hood Pro.

If you are seeing air bubbles in your filter bowl that is a sign that air is getting in the line which will effect your fuel pressure and atomization of the fuel for proper burn. First I would check your inlet lines for small air leaks and change your fuel filter that may be part of your problem. As far as the tripping of the breaker check for a short in the wiring or have your blower motor checked out. It may be the fuel pump as mentioned above which could cause all of the problems you are having.

Looks terrible I woonder how you can survie. It is much more fun here in Wisconsin where it is 3 degrees now and we are supposed to get up to 12" of snow tonight...:lgcold:

Sorry I though you were talking about quick connects, the swivels look just like the mosmatic swivel pictured just with different thread options.

Kevin, Check valves are not required if you are running a trap style unloader as they have a built in check valve. If you are running a flow unloader you must have them to prevent damage to either machine. Douglas, You are correct the 3rd nozzle sprays out of the center of the swivel straight down. They use it for a flushing out effect to push the loose debris form the duct. Here are some pics of the couplers.

Absolutely when I started buying years ago via mail order I was amazed at how much I saved over a years time...nearly 50% over my local suppler including shipping charges. The best way is to plan ahead to keep what you need in stock, and I found that bulk ordering saves a ton too (less overall shipping charges). As far as couplers go they are on sale this month too a 3/8 coupler plug set is only $2.58 ($1.99 coupler and $.59 plug)

There are several different types of swivels available. There is a standard swivel that is more for connecting hoses, it is still movable under pressure but it takes intentional effort. If you want a live action swivel I would recommend the Mosmatic swivel which has a dual bearing design as will move freely under full pressure. The Mosmatic is also available in mpt-fpt, mpt-mpt, and fpt-fpt configurations, I don't show them on my site bet we can get them.

There are a couple different ball valves available that we carry as well if you need a higher pressure rating. There is a carbon steel rated for 3000 psi with a long handle. Then you have the High pressure ball valves rated for 7500 psi (on sale this month) as well as the 6000 psi stainless steel ball valves (also on sale).

First check the fuel cap to make sure the vent is not sticking that could be the problem. just take it off or loosen it up and see if that fixes it. If that doesn't work pick up a can of 'sea foam' and add it to the fuel system if there is a buildup of lacquer from the old fuel it will dissolve it an make it run like new.

Happy Birthday Ron... If you want snow we got 7" last night, might be a bit of a drive though.

WOW That is insane...I have seen and dealt with picky people before but nothing like that.

Unless you run a low pressure type application (1500-2000 psi) you should always buy a 2 wire hose. They will usually last 2 times as long as a single wire hose. The two wire gives you just that, two wire braids, one over the other for added protection and strength. When you take a hose and drag it over a corner or make a twist too tight you create a stress point that can cause a wire strand to break. this weak point is where the hose ends up blowing. With a two wire hose the two layers create a much stronger encasement and it is much more difficult to break these wires, Even if you break some of the 'outer' wire braid you still have a 'inner' braid offering the protection. Sure it may weigh a bit more but you really only have a few feet hanging behind you but the cost-benefit is well worth the investment.

Like Russ said if you downstream look for a gun with the largest size ball inside they will give the best draw rates. Really what you want is a gun that fits the capacity of your machine and one that is comfortable in your hand and offers the least fatigue. Look for an "easy squeeze" or Hydraulic compensating gun they offer the best comfort when working. Also take into consideration the size of the workers hands a big or fat gun in small hands can be tiring on the operator. The general pump YG5000 is a good gun for smaller hands and the YRL50 is good for small hands and is an hyd compensating (what I use).

Good luck in your new venture I hope your experience this summer pays off for you.

Very nice work the home owners must be very happy with that. I know I would be.

Looks like the home owner got at it with a 0 degree nozzle. Like Larry said just resoap the whole area and parrten clean it trying to keep the fan on one lap of siding at a time to prevent any more marks.

If there is a film or etching you can try some soft scrub on a damp sponge and rub lightly to take it off. Or you could try a product like Glass De-Etch.

You can also take out the injector orifice and make sure the chemicals have not pitted or eaten away the end of the cone this will also cause it to stop working.

Still a very good price for that machine and a trailer with all the accessories I would buy it as a spare if I was close to you.

At least no one was hurt. I have lost a hose reel off one of my trailers in the past that, no accident or damage luckily. I switched to the non swivel type of real for that reason and never had a problem since.

Thats a good price for a hot unit. Richard is right throw away that 0 degree untill you get more experience. Or just go get some old wood and see the damage you can cause.

If you want one get the kind with the snap lock couplers. They have a flat side and a pin lock mechanism that will keep it from sliding down and spinning. Like this