Paul Kassander

No problem, glad I could help. Let me know how that square pattern works, I am interested to find out if it auctually sprays a square cone like they say.

Hope this helps

Yes when you put on the ceramic pistons ther is an o ring and some plastic washers that go on the bolt and seal up the inside of the piston. If it wasn't leaking before and you didn't remove them I doubt it is the problem. Your best bet is to remove the head again and make sure you didn't pinch any seals.

If you are still getting a leak it is possible that one of the ceramic plungers is cracked. It is also possible that you have a pinched ring or packing from installation. I always install the packings and brass on the head and then put it on the pump, then I can be sure I don't pinch anything. Then I use a little grease or o ring lube to put it on the pump over the pistons. As far as installing the packings they make a tool for the installaton that makes it super easy and keeps you from nicking them with a screwdriver. It is a packing insertion kit and runs $19.95 and fits general pumps (not on my site yet).

You might want to try a 15 or 25 degree tip, it will shorten the width of your fan and help to prevent any cut marks. As far a sucking soap you should be able to go as high as a xx15 or xx20 tip and not suck soap. On your machine a xx15 wil give you approx 400 psi a xx10 will be around 900 psi (xx= degree size)

Try backing it off slowly and see if the pressure goes up I have run across some that work in reverse and they can be over adjusted as well. More than likely you will need a new one though. I'm glad you dont need new packings that is one less expense for you. Let me know if you need more help and feel free to call.

If you order the packing kit #8 it will give you the seals for all three pistons. the kid #28 with the brass is 1 per piston so you will need 3. I do sell all of the parts for those pumps as well as others, if you go to my website you can look up your specific pump and see which kits you may need. www.mobicleaninc.com

I bet if we combine everyones 1% problems we could come up wit a solution for everything wierd that ever happens.

I mounted 12v tractor lights on my bumper, for plowing, they work great it makes it like day behind me which is really nice to keep from hitting things. They also work great for hooking up trailers because the shadows change and you can tell how close you are getting.

Kevin, A mis-adjusted unloader can give you this type of problem, as an unloader wears they can do many strange things. That is why if you are having a problem with a pump you shoud try a few things before replacing parts. I have been a little all over the board on my trouble shooting but it is difficult to give advice with little info. Plus I am typically that 1% guy, the stuff that no one has ever seen happen before happens to me so that is usually my first response to people. That being said here is the progression that I use for trouble shooting. 1. Is the tip worn or clogged? 2. Is the gun clogged? 3. Is the chemical injector partially or fully blocked (downstream, my 1%er) 4. Is the hose blown or is there a leak somewhere? 5. Is there water? 6. Is the motor running ok? Testing: Pressure feed pump- Pressure ok, Problem=water supply problem, packings(look for dripping water behind head of pump) Pressure not ok, try testing open gun Open gun test- Pressure ok, Problem=unloader Pressure not ok, Problem=packings/check valves rebuild pump While these or not the only problems and soultuons they are the most common, if you ever have a 1% problem I will share my experiences with you as well.

Replace the high pressure relief valve on the pump, that will help some. From the way you are describing the problem it sounds like one of two things, your unloader went bad or your packings wore out. If you have been running your pump in extended periods of bypass, more than 2 min at a time I would guess that you wore out the packings. Have you tried to run the pump open gun for testing? Remove the unloader and crimp off the bypass (if connected to the inlet) connect your pressure hose and gauge to the outlet of the pump, LOCK THE TRIGGER OPEN, and start the pump, while holding on to the gun. If your pressure is fine you have a miss-adjusted or worn out unloader. If the pressure is low your packings are worn and need to be replaced. You may also have some debris stuck in the check valves which is causing one or more to not seat properly or a crack in one of the ceramic pistons may cause the loss as well. This type of situation will usually cause a vibration or cavitation in the pressure line which you can feel, but still check them. When you run the bypass hose to the tank you will do it like you said, remove the hose from the unloader, plug the inlet wher the bypass hose was attached and run a new hose from the unloader to the tank. As far a pressures are concerned it will vary based on the type of unloader you have, flow unloaders will have a higher spike of pressure than a trap but once in bypass the pressure is minimal. What I would reccommend is to use an old section of pressure hose, and the 3/8 fitting on the end will screw right into your unloader bypass.

The long extension wand pic with the guy washing the building is a stock picture from the manufacturer, I think.

The 8002 is an 80 degree 02 nozzle size, 6520 65 degree 20 nozzle (typically soap nozzle), 11003 110 deg 03 nozzle, 8010 80 degree 10 nozzle, 6503 65 degree 03 nozzle, the lechler I am unsure about and I can look up the other ones in my Spraying systems book on Monday if you are interested, let me know.

Try your regular house wash first, like Scott said it looks like wd-40. Start mild ant then work your way up to degreasers, you may get lucky.

Sounds like a pretty cool machine. Ususally the cover will have some insulation on it. Some companies use a solid donut others will use the fiberglass and use suppport tabs to hold it to the top. Both work fine but you want to make sure to put some up there for two reasons. 1. The top will get very hot and the paint on the cover will peel or if stainless in may discolor. 2. The top will get very hot and an employee or somone else will eventually walk up to it and place their hand on it to see how hot it really is. Yes, I have done this and my guys still do this from time to time to see if it is hot and then they complain about the burn on their hand.

Depending on the condition of the concrete when you return you may be able to apply a mild detergent or brightner and rinse. I dont know that I would be that concerned about damaging the concrete. You can always get an extra set of spray tips that are a little larger and that will drop your pressure making your surface cleaner less agressive.

That looks like an adequate patch job, good work. Regular fiberglass insulation doesnt have the same type of density as the burner insulation. That being said I really dont know if you can use regular insulation I have never tried it but I dont think it will give you the same protection from the heat of he coil. I would really reccommend using the material that was designed for the job. You went this far to do it right I would hate to see you have to do it again.

You can put a patch over that hole if it is open to the inside of the coil. Yes you do definately want to wrap the outside of the coil before replaceing the outer skin. Most of your PW suppliers should be able to get you the insulation. I sell it as well for $49.95 it comes 24" tall 5' long and it is 1" thick which will cover a typical coil. Make sure you check the measurements of the coil though because some are taller than others and have a greater circumfrence and may require a special cut piece or an additional section.

Your tip could be as large as a 4 according to the standard tip chart so I do not think that is your problem. It almost sounds like your packings are a bit worn. If you are getting any cavitation (vibration in the line) this is more than likely your problem. Try to pressure feed your pumpdirect from a hose. If your packings are worn you will see water leak from between the head and crank case. This will also tell you if you are starving the pump of water which may also cause your pressure loss. If it works fine after pressure feeding the pump and there ar no leaks make sure that you have no obstructions in your line from the tank or your ball valve isn't partially closed. Otherwise it cluld be a whole bunch of other things. If you like you can call me tommorw and I will be happy to help you trouble shoot it.

Nice, I like it.

Good luck in your endevour we are all here to support you.

I tried that one year about 15 years ago and didn't really get any response. If you have a regular customer that you deal with consistantly they may be interested, or commercial accounts. Most of the people around here use their landscapers because they can get all the pine boughs etc. cheaper and deal with that type of stuff regularly. I guess it really depends on your market.

If you are running a breaker tank I would definately run the bypass back to the tank like Mike said. If you are pressure feeding the pressure washer add a thermal relief valve, it releases water when the temp gets around 140 degrees and fresh cool water from the hose replaces it.

You can make a small breaker tank from any type of storage tank. All you need to do is add a hose hook up on the bottom and a float valve on the top. One of the best setups I have seen is with a 15 gallon square drum. The top was cut half open leaving the handle for carrying and he installed a float valve near the top through the side and an outlet on the bottom. When he is done with the job he just dumps out the excess water and carrys it to his truck. Simple easy and inexpensive, it seems to work quite well and he rarely if ever has supply problems.

Like James said do a sample washing for them and show what really happens.