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rj242

Stripper ?

Question

I would like to know why someone would use Soduim Percarbonate (efc 38 or restorer from envirospec) over using a true stripper like HD-80 or F-18. Is there any advantage using a percarbonate?

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I think the #1 advantage of EFC38 over a caustic stripper has to due with its safety around surrounding plants, pets, kids,etc... Also, safer when it comes to working with it. Caustics, most of your strippers, can be harmful on surrounding vegetation if precautions are not taken to protect the plants. This involves tarp covering if neccessary, esp. on flowering plants and RINSING. You need to adequetly mist, if not drench surrounding plants that might be inadvertantly exposed to the strippers you are using. Rinse before, DURING, and after. I've wrestled with the same question myself. In situations where I have ALOT of prized landscaping around the deck, and there is very little existing failed finish, the EFC38 is my approach. On the other hand, if you inspect the deck and find a substantial amount of pre-existing old failing finish, a caustic stripper, like HD80 or F18 would be the way to go. Get the respirator on, get your dillutions dialed in, and where protective clothing when using strippers. Not such a big deal with EFC or most percarbonate based cleaners.

Really depends on the application! Yes, the strippers will be more effecient, and sometimes more cost-effective when it comes to deck restoration. Really depends on the condition of the deck your gonna work with. You really want to know what your doing when working with caustics though. NEVER go mixing in other chems without a FIRM knowledge of there compatibility with the strippers. For most jobs, your HD80 or F18 will perform well with most decks if you get your ratios correct. A bit quicker with a stripper, but safety precautions MUST be taken to ensure your safety as well as your clients. My 2 cents...

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Other than what Matt said, some might get percarb cheaper and have heard it said it not required to keep wet for it to keep doing it's intended action of bleaching the wood. There may be other issues of it not furring wood as bad as hydroxide but some say if the wood is gonna fur it will do with either...maybe it comes down to preference with sure fire results on either. I mean you want safety use percarb..you want power for to remove finish then use hydroxide based product.

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Precarbs must be kept wet for them to work

Pecarbs are a good starter product for wood without a finish thats over3 years old. It darkens all new wood so you have to brighten. On wood 6 months to 2 years it doesn't remove the grey degradation because the wood hasn't degraded enough. So you have to buff the wood to remove the fir balls.

Learn to use bleach and NOAH while starting with precarbs

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Thanx for that "must be kept wet" info James..was parroting what others imply and baiting folks?.. I sometimes word things as 3rd party so others can step in and shine.. :)

Anyone else see the pun fun involved with the bird on James head?.. I find it extremely comical stuff....Let's parrot James!! Haaahaaa :)

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