Cleaning and Sealing pavers?

[maher871 14]

I have been doing alot of browsing try to find the most common ways to clean and seal pavers. What kind of sealers? I am scheduled to attend training to become a techniseal contractor in 2/08. Locally, I have access to techniseal and SRW chemicals and sealers. Water based or siloxane? I pretty much find that applying the sealers by roller is the most preferred method. what"s your opinion?

My other question is cold water or hot?

Help me get these questions answered. I am going to star marketing this in about 2 months.. Thank for your help

[Scott Paul 164]

I have been doing alot of browsing try to find the most common ways to clean and seal pavers. What kind of sealers? I am scheduled to attend training to become a techniseal contractor in 2/08. Locally, I have access to techniseal and SRW chemicals and sealers. Water based or siloxane? I pretty much find that applying the sealers by roller is the most preferred method. what"s your opinion?

My other question is cold water or hot?

Help me get these questions answered. I am going to star marketing this in about 2 months.. Thank for your help

You only need cold water when cleaning pavers if you are just removing dirt and grime. If you have a stain to remove it is best to use a cleaner for whatever it is you are trying to remove. i.e. use a rust cleaner for rust, efflorescence cleaner for efflorescence etc.

Siloxane is a water base product that will bead water but will not enhance the shine. The main reason to seal pavers is to enhance the color with a "wet" look. To do this you will need a acrylic sealer. Arcylic sealers come in water bases or solvent bases. Water bases are usually very low in solid content resulting in mulitple coats to achieve a shine. High solid solvent based acrylics require only 1 coat. You can find this on our site:

Brick Paver Sealer & Decorative Concrete Sealer- SuperSeal Brick Paver Sealer

Rolling is okay but you can have issues with the sand. New sand can be pulled out with a roller cover and the sand will stick all over top of the pavers. We prefer to spray. Makes the job alot quicker too. Take in consideration that some solvent based sealers are not sprayable since they are too thick.

[sflasealcoating 14]

Im a certified techniseal installer here in sfla. Although they make a good product its very expensive so I blend my own sealer. I would never recommend using a water based sealer on pavers or concrete. Few key poiints. #1 The only time we use water base products is on non porous surfaces such as travertine and other marbles. #2 We Surface clean every job ( regardless of what you will learn in the techniseal course ) wands do not clean pavers effectively of concrete dust, lime ect especially not garden hoses.#3 During the process of cleaning you should lose a few cm of sand. You should have no problem with joint sand even using a 3/4 nap roller which we use for every job.#4 Always sand AFTER sealing not before.....sealer is not meant to be a glue to bond sand together regardless of what you may hear. #5 If you want to stabalize the joints, use a poly sand which techniseal makes or belguard.#6 If you have to spray sealer on use a low pressure sprayer....pump up ect Not an airless or paint sprayer. To much pressure for a thin product such as sealer and airrates the sealer to much. This will leave you with lines and more sealer in the air than on the pavers. That should about cover it :)

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Ah what fun of blending chems up..does away with drink or a fella getting involved in other spirited vice!!..just blend, roll, and snort..good deal Cody!!...I'll take a recipe PM of yer best elixir thank you.:lgbow:

[Scott Paul 164]

#4 Always sand AFTER sealing not before.....sealer is not meant to be a glue to bond sand together regardless of what you may hear. :)

I disagree with that. What is wrong with solidifying the sand with the sealer? If done properly it will reduce weeds and erosion. It also will make it a 3 day job instead of a 2 day job.

[Richard 17]

Depending on the time of year or region you live in, it's a 3 step process any way. First step is to clean, then the polymeric sand must go in on dry pavers and be wet after installation, and completely dry before sealing. Three steps, just charge accordingly.

Funny thing, Techniseal called while I've been away to see if I want to attend one of there classes in January. I actually do all the warranty work for their biggest competator, who asked me to go at there expense.

[sflasealcoating 14]

I disagree with that. What is wrong with solidifying the sand with the sealer? If done properly it will reduce weeds and erosion. It also will make it a 3 day job instead of a 2 day job.

Have you ever gone back and seen what happens to sand after a few monthes to a year? Let me explain. Whether using a water based product or solvent base product, when applied over sand, you may have a total penitration into said sand of about 2-4 maybe cm at best. Over time pavers shift, they are desgned this way. You also have some erosion or evacuation of underlying joint sand. Now you have a bridge of sand 2-4 cm thick with nothing under to support it. Pavers shift, sand cracks and now looks like broken concrete in your joints. Techniseal actually has some pictures of this on their web site. If you have to have hard joints, use a stablizing or poly sand that is made for this job. Been there done that, have learn from years of experience and have been in the paver business since 1996 and sealing since 2001. Ive messed up my share of driveways through trial and error, and had to go back and fix the problems. This unfortunately is one i see all to well.

[Kory 14]

Im a certified techniseal installer here in sfla. Although they make a good product its very expensive so I blend my own sealer. I would never recommend using a water based sealer on pavers or concrete. Few key poiints. #1 The only time we use water base products is on non porous surfaces such as travertine and other marbles. #2 We Surface clean every job ( regardless of what you will learn in the techniseal course ) wands do not clean pavers effectively of concrete dust, lime ect especially not garden hoses.#3 During the process of cleaning you should lose a few cm of sand. You should have no problem with joint sand even using a 3/4 nap roller which we use for every job.#4 Always sand AFTER sealing not before.....sealer is not meant to be a glue to bond sand together regardless of what you may hear. #5 If you want to stabalize the joints, use a poly sand which techniseal makes or belguard.#6 If you have to spray sealer on use a low pressure sprayer....pump up ect Not an airless or paint sprayer. To much pressure for a thin product such as sealer and airrates the sealer to much. This will leave you with lines and more sealer in the air than on the pavers. That should about cover it :)

I have been doing my own trial and error on pavers. I have come to the conclusion that the process mentioned above works best for me. Reason being here in FL I can Clean in AM and seal in the afternoon and sand next afternoon. I also find I get a better sheen using the roller. 1 coat with a 3/4 is all I need. More of my customers want there pavers sealed to stop ants and weeds from growing in.

[Scott Paul 164]

Have you ever gone back and seen what happens to sand after a few monthes to a year?

We have been sealing pavers since 1993 and everyone in michigan sands before sealing. We have had zero call backs in those 16 years due to sand issues and yes I see what it looks like on a daily basis. I'm sure your way works too, but I know for a fact that sanding first and sealing the sand properly will help with erosion.

[maher871 14]

Now after reading some of these threads I'm kinda leaning towards using solvent based sealers. Is there any reasons that I would want to use water based?

[Chappy 138]

Michigan sand is different than florida sand. Dont you know that? just kidding.

Ive seen and done both ways. when applying an solvent acrylic over sand it saturates nicely but doesnt really lock it down like a polymeric sand done after the sealer is on. Since the solvent dries quickly it can be done almost immediatly. But to each his own. The only way to find out is to try it and see which works better for you.

I did try the water based joint stabizing sealer from adamant once and when I went back next year it looked like what Cody described. Big voids and cracks.

[sflasealcoatinginc 14]

Addiment makes really good sealer as well. Theres no retail center for them here in s fla anymore though. Hey Jon, What ever happened with that paver job that you were trying to fix for a customer i spoke with you a while ago now about.....Did you end up having to strip it?

Michigan sand is different than florida sand. Dont you know that? just kidding.

Ive seen and done both ways. when applying an solvent acrylic over sand it saturates nicely but doesnt really lock it down like a polymeric sand done after the sealer is on. Since the solvent dries quickly it can be done almost immediatly. But to each his own. The only way to find out is to try it and see which works better for you.

I did try the water based joint stabizing sealer from adamant once and when I went back next year it looked like what Cody described. Big voids and cracks.