concrete cleaning

[TNshaun 14]

Just startied out in residential pressure washing. I was wondering what peoplle had found to be the best concrete cleaner? Can anyone also give any tips on how long they let it sit and how much brush work they do? Any tips would be gretly appreciated.

Thanks,

Shaun

[Adrian 155]

it really depends on what you are cleaning off of the concrete.

There are different applications for different types of cleaning. No 1 chem is a do all clean all.

For general cleaning, sh12% soap type mix is most common for molds and algaes.Among others.

Most would say.

Most important..... do you have a surface cleaner for cleaning concrete.

[Barry M 73]

What Adrian said for dirt and mildew works best and also use a surface cleaner, no brushing.

[TNshaun 14]

Don't have a surface cleaner yet but I've been looking around. Thought I might go with a 20" without casters so it could be use easily on all surfaces rough or smooth. Don't plan on doing any parking lots or anything like that just driveway and side walks of houses. Does anybody recommend or not recommend any brands?

[PPC 37]

the 20 inch classic is good for what you are looking for

[TNshaun 14]

I'll be sure and look at that one. Thanks a lot.

[Mark Gallison 14]

Wouldnt recommend expanding into a lot of flat work without a surface cleaner. Most of our PW biz is flat work, lots and lots of mall sidewalks, gum removal etc. Some driveways to but we focus mainly on commercial. Love that flat work, love parking lot striping more tho!! I bought a 20" Northern and whne the swivel bit the pickle I retroed a high quality swivel. I like the big three wheels all caster for manuvering

[Jim in NJ 64]

I'm just starting out using the chems with powerwashing. My focus is in residential homes but want to expand into the flat stuff. I cant afford a surface cleaner this year so how do I get by?

My rig is a 4000psi/4gpm cold water, I M5X-Jet my houses with 15%SH/SC/F-13(wild cherry mix). I have read the F-18 will work great on concrete walks/drivways but have not tried it yet.

Any suggestions?

[814jeffw 71]

When you do get a surface cleaner you'll be wondering how you did it before. They aren't cheap, but when you get one you'll see why. They also make you look more professional, especially when you get professional results. You can also use the professional look thing to charge a little more money and yet still cut your time WAY down. But with that said, utilizing the proper chemicals for the task is key. Let dwell long enough to make the wand washing easier, and you'll be able to get by that way until you can get a surface cleaner. Go rent one and see what you think. But keep in mind that you'll need a good GPM machine (at least 4 gal a minute, depending on the size of the surface cleaner. A 16" surface cleaner is better with lower GPM. But it will give you a taste of the efficiency by renting. Sodium Hydroxide and chlorine is a good general concrete cleaner mix. My mix is 10 gal. 12.5% chlorine with 2 lbs. sodium hydroxide and 25 gal. water to make a total mix of 35 gal. This mix is just a benchmark for you, you can adjust it to suit your needs. But it's always at least nice to have an idea of where to start.

Jeff

[Jim in NJ 64]

If I did my numbers correctly, A mix in a 5er will be

-6.4oz F-18(sodium Hydroxide)

-2 gal SH

-3 gals water

Is that rght?

[Jim in NJ 64]

I forgot to add I will be using an M5X-Jet

[Jim in NJ 64]

WAIT A MINUTE!! I think my math is wrong... Are you only adding .007 oz/gal of the sodium hydroxide???

That would be .035oz in a 5er for x-jeting??

[Mike Williamson 198]

I'm just starting out using the chems with powerwashing. My focus is in residential homes but want to expand into the flat stuff. I cant afford a surface cleaner this year so how do I get by?

My rig is a 4000psi/4gpm cold water, I M5X-Jet my houses with 15%SH/SC/F-13(wild cherry mix). I have read the F-18 will work great on concrete walks/drivways but have not tried it yet.

Any suggestions?

2 or 3 decent sized driveways will pay for a surface cleaner. My suggestion is to decline all flatwork except very small areas (like a patio or front porch) until you can get one. It'll pay for itself in short order, and will open you up to more work. Hard to be competitive on commercial bids when you're wanding it and the other guy is using a 28" Big Guy.

[Jim in NJ 64]

I am going to target residential for now and if commercial knocks at my door I will answer.

Turn down work?? Never... If its something I can do well and get my asking price, I will do it, although a lot slower without the surface cleaner

[Tmrrptr 164]

I am going to target residential for now and if commercial knocks at my door I will answer.

Turn down work?? Never... If its something I can do well and get my asking price, I will do it, although a lot slower without the surface cleaner

Jim, I think perhaps you missed the point here...

..You said above 'If it's something I can do well'

The others are attempting to advise you that you can NOT do 'well' on flatwork without a surface cleaner.

YES, it can be done, but not efficiently.

Hot water and higher flow also help a LOT.

[Mike Williamson 198]

Jim, I think perhaps you missed the point here...

..You said above 'If it's something I can do well'

The others are attempting to advise you that you can NOT do 'well' on flatwork without a surface cleaner.

YES, it can be done, but not efficiently.

Hot water and higher flow also help a LOT.

Exactly...First, you can't be competitive, meaning you'll work for pennies on the dollar doing it with a wand. To make decent money doing flatwork with a wand, you'd have to charge several times what I'd charge to do it with a surface cleaner.

Second, it is very very difficult to clean concrete with a wand "well". It'll look better, maybe, but it won't look as good or be as clean as concrete cleaned with a surfacer.

That's another sign of a professional...knowing when to turn down work because you're either not equipped for it, or lack the knowledge and/or experience.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

That's another sign of a professional...knowing when to turn down work because you're either not equipped for it, or lack the knowledge and/or experience.

Verily, verily!..

Equiped with heart or drive is nice and all but the brain is the most powerful tool in any of our arsenals..:yoda:

[TNshaun 14]

Jeff,(or anyone who wants to chime in) If you are already using SH12% and simple cherry on a house couldn't you use that on the concrete as well. I did this on my own porch and it looked brand new. What is the significance of sodium hydroxide?

[Mike Williamson 198]

Jeff,(or anyone who wants to chime in) If you are already using SH12% and simple cherry on a house couldn't you use that on the concrete as well. I did this on my own porch and it looked brand new. What is the significance of sodium hydroxide?

Personally, I don't use sodium hydroxide on concrete. I've found that 10.5% and a good soap downstreamed before using the surfacer is all that's needed. For tannin stains, 10.5% mixed 50/50 or stronger (depending on how bad the stains are) sprayed with a pump up works great after cleaning with the surfacer. Just spray it on and let it dry. If you're worried about leaving the chlorine on the concrete, rinse it after the stains disappear.

The only thing I've ever needed sodium hydroxide for is either to strip wood or as a degreaser on commercial concrete.

[814jeffw 71]

If the house mix works for you then use it, that is what matters most,.RESULTS. Not to mention being comfortable with the product and knowing how it reacts with surroundings. I like the hydroxide and bleach myself, and on some type stains oxalic acid works well, and it is also a very good overall brightener of concrete. But I'm sure there are numerous ideas and strengths you can use. I put mine up as only a bench mark. But Mike is right about the sodium hydroxide, it's very strong, so don't go overboard with it. But at the right strength it's safe to use and very effective, and cheap.

Jeff

[Jim in NJ 64]

Ok, OK I got the point and broke down and got a steel eagle 16" floater.. It should be here by the end of the week..

What are some of the reciepes you guys are using. I use the wild cherry mix on houses and may consider a "special" mix for the flat work. I have some f-18 on hand but no recipes..

[814jeffw 71]

Basic knowledge and experimenting with mixing for your cleaning needs will be the best. I don't use f-18, but if it will mix with bleach that is a plus.

Jeff

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Sometimes extra knowledge of methods/chems,hot water, warnings to customers about shadows leftover from oil, and reclaim isin order. Always see or know a job before promising or implying results.

[Tmrrptr 164]

Ok, OK I got the point and broke down and got a steel eagle 16" floater.. It should be here by the end of the week..

Good deal, Jim!

16" floater will be ueseful for most residential type projects and small commercial... Easier for a less expensive piece of equipment to pay for itself!

As work progresses, you can develop your upgrade strategy.

[Tmrrptr 164]

As Space Odyssey points out, discussion of 'perfection' with a client is always good.

Perhaps not in his graphic depiction, but in a commercial setting, a circumstance like the one pictured would be an excellent opportunity to pitch a client on a maintenance schedule!