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Ken, looks good - how much energy do you put into sanding a deck like that? My last deck I sanded all the railings, posts, stringer boards, and floor boards - but left the outside fascia {deck only 2 feet off ground} and all the spindles alone.

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Dan, my energy ends at the contract signing but this deck did have two handrails and a floor board replaced. All the handrails were very rough so all were sanded down completely. For the most part, most decks get a wash, sanding of the rails, a quick defur on the spindles, and sealed.

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One big reason I sand, Ken. Is that WTW Warm Honey Gold comes out pumpkin orange after stripping and brightening. If I go back and sand with 60 grit - then it comes out a much deeper attractive warmer color.

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I never liked the WHG for that reason. I think I applied it without tinting maybe twice and both times it was orange. I would bid every deck with sanding if I could. There is a difference in the finish quality. By the same token, customers aren't willing to pay for that upcharge and the profit margin in it isn't worth it when compared to the bit better it looks and lasts. Perhaps I could upsell it if I worked harder at closing it. There is a fine line between that craftsmanship ship thing and offering people a valuable service and experience.

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... There is a fine line between that craftsmanship ship thing and offering people a valuable service and experience.

If anything, that is an understatement. We try and specialize in high end jobs and work quality. But sanding 98% of typical PT wood decks would be both a waste of our time and certainly the customer's dollars.

Cedar should avoid being sanded if using a paraffinic oil stain. Defurred yes, but not a hard sand.

Mahogany and ipe' on the other hand should always be sanded or buffed before staining. Makes a huge difference in the appearance of the finish.

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I still sand my decks, maybe at some point when I have enough cash flow - I'll cut back on the sanding. But for now I really need every deck to look as good as it possibly can. And pressure treated looks awful with WHG if not sanded.

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We rarely get honey gold jobs anymore but I dont know what yall are talking about with the sanding thing. We do handrails included and some defurring if necessary but never sand PT floor

Heres a small honey gold we finished. I thought it finished out one of the best so far

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Charlie, looks great!

One thing about about the honey gold is the area. Around here people do not want yellowish decks (right behind, "my deck isn't going to be orange is it?"). Most requests I get are to extend living space and that usually entails matching a hardwood interior. Baker's has a nice super cedar gold but 95% of the time we have to end up mixing it with SCD or regular SC. A caveat with Baker's gold is that it does not hold up well. Russ puts transoxide in the WHG so I'm sure it lasts longer.

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Yea thats true about the orange look. 90 percent of clients this year are going with brown sugar. Fife made a good point a while back, maybe its the black pigment in brown sugar, but I still love when we do a honey gold. That rich of a look to me is hard to beat

With all that mixing how are you able to give customers an idea of what the end result will be? You keep photos of every combination in your presentation materials?

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Charlie, the mixing is actualy done by me at the time of proposal. I show them a picture book, evaluate the age of the deck and wood condition and make an eductaed guess. I usually write the formula right on that initial contract. Picking colors is a great way to close a deal.

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Picking colors is a great way to close a deal.

LOL exactly..Like the guy at the appliance store asking you, "will you need this delivered?" as one of his first few questions to see how serious you are. If you say "yes" OR "no"...he's gotcha!!! Get them to make ANY kind of decission BEFORE the quote and there hooked, just reel em in.

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