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Rob R.

Stripped twice is this deck ready for paint?

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powerwash2007smallid2.jpg

powerwash2008smallvg4.jpg

This is the deck before any stripping, customer just really wanted the floor and upper spindles but not the lower deck re-done since the lower part has a ton of stain on it not showing any were what so ever..

Edited by Rob R.

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Another question I had was underneath the deck there is a small area of green mold is there any way to remove that w/o stripping the stain in that one area and re-painting?

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Since I cannot delete my post, just disregard. I went back and re-read and realize you said "paint" not stain.

.... so disregard and I will get more coffee in me.

Edited by Adrian

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Since I cannot delete my post, just disregard. I went back and re-read and realize you said "paint" not stain.

.... so disregard and I will get more coffee in me.

I said paint but I actually ment stain, just re-edited..

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I agree with Beth then.

Stronger mix of NAOH and neutralize.

Upsell the underside along with the upper resto and the swing.(even though the customer said "it's ok"). You don't really want a non-uniform flow with the color, so sell the whole deck, not just "some of it".

IMO start over with a stronger mix of NAOH and oxalic. Honestly, it looks untouched in years to me.

Edited by Adrian

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Ummmmm....no. It's not ready to be stained yet in my opinion.

Beth

I should have mentioned the pic's shown are after the first strip, I have yet to go back to see if the 2nd strip really did much after it has dried.. I was told that I really did not need to strip anything since I will be using the exact same behr color code :/ which in that case means I wasted alot of my time and some money..

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I would have to see the pics after the second strip.

The wood doesn't look ready to me at all.

Regardless of it being a recoat, since you applied chems, you have to now deal with the consequences of disturbing the finish ( trust me - you have) and you will have to strip it right before coating or it will look horrible and not last.

Did you neutralize? Looks pretty black....like maybe it needs to be? Did you wash the rails? Or just apply the chems? Were these photos from after all of the steps you performed the first time? Can we see a picture of the deck, dry - as it is now?

Beth

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Did you neutralize last time?

Beth

No, I figured the improved appearence from britener would be minimal considering the stripper was having a tough time getting the wood nice and clean to begin with..

Is it ok to mix britener with stripped? Or completely separate application? I ask b/c I only have one pump up spray right now which is full of stripper already

Edited by Rob R.

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No you can not mix a striper and a brightener together. It will render your detergent useless and would most likely cause a reaction if the two meet in high concentrations. Stripper first, let it dwell and rinse it off then apply the neutralizer.

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No, I figured the improved appearence from britener would be minimal considering the stripper was having a tough time getting the wood nice and clean to begin with..

Is it ok to mix britener with stripped? Or completely separate application? I ask b/c I only have one pump up spray right now which is full of stripper already

Go buy a second dedicated pump up for your brightener.

You have to neutralize that deck. Keep the chems separate. No shortcuts.

Also go read all the wood FAQ. Pressure Washing and Contractor Cleaning Forums - The Grime Scene - FAQ: FAQ’s on Wood Restoration

You started a job without knowing what you needed to do. You need to go and read, and learn, and finish it correctly.

Beth

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Did you use a pressure washer to rinse the stripper off? You don't need to blast it but you do need some pressure to move the debris, top layer off after the chems do their work. Like the yellow 15 tip at about 12 or so inches medium pressure. Don't cut the wood just blow the top layer off after its soft. Looks to me like it was washed off with a water hose then dried. And you have to neutralize it and do the brightener. Like Beth said you cant skip anything when using chems process. Go to Pressure tek and order one of his sample packs. It has everything you need. The stripper / neutralizer and brightener and some simple c and gutter grenade for the house. Its like 35 bucks and enough product for that deck and you can up sale a house wash while your there (1.5 hrs) for 150.00 and make up some profit margin for time already spent.

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No, I figured the improved appearence from britener would be minimal considering the stripper was having a tough time getting the wood nice and clean to begin with..

Is it ok to mix britener with stripped? Or completely separate application? I ask b/c I only have one pump up spray right now which is full of stripper already

Your joking right??

If what I am reading is true, you should be hitting the books, taking a class or something because you have no business working on someone elses deck and not being able to answer some of the most basic questions you have posted here in wood restoration.

btw...Mixing a brightener with a stripper nullifies the solution to basic salts and it is useless. Brightening/Neutralization should only be done once the strip phase is complete and the wood is thoroughly rinsed.

Please do yourself a favor and learn before you go out on another job.

Our FAQ section is a good place to start. Read in the Wood Restoration Forum and use the search tool to find out more in threads that have already been discussed on this and other related topics.

Don't stop asking questions though and post the most recent pics so others can see the actual results and be able to comment more accurately.

Rod!~

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Your joking right??

If what I am reading is true, you should be hitting the books, taking a class or something because you have no business working on someone elses deck and not being able to answer some of the most basic questions you have posted here in wood restoration.

btw...Mixing a brightener with a stripper nullifies the solution to basic salts and it is useless. Brightening/Neutralization should only be done once the strip phase is complete and the wood is thoroughly rinsed.

Please do yourself a favor and learn before you go out on another job.

Our FAQ section is a good place to start. Read in the Wood Restoration Forum and use the search tool to find out more in threads that have already been discussed on this and other related topics.

Don't stop asking questions though and post the most recent pics so others can see the actual results and be able to comment more accurately.

Rod!~

Harsh :) I have done quite a few decks but never had to strip one before..most of the decks I have done were just gray came out real clean w/o any neutralizer and the deck looked great in final results.. The main reason I joined this forum is to better understand what the best of the best are using for even better results to better myself and make my customers happy.. I asked a simple question in the other thread (stain vs seal) and I have never gotten the same answer from anyone, and it looks like a 2 page debate with disagreement so maybe that wasn't such a 'basic" question after all..

Like I said I never had to use a neutralizer/brightener before but I bought plenty of it to try it out, since everyone here is using it to optimize results.. I ask simple questions to see what peoples responses are and alot of times I get mixed views/advice.. I will try and cut down on my stupid questions from here on out

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Did you use a pressure washer to rinse the stripper off? You don't need to blast it but you do need some pressure to move the debris, top layer off after the chems do their work. Like the yellow 15 tip at about 12 or so inches medium pressure. Don't cut the wood just blow the top layer off after its soft. Looks to me like it was washed off with a water hose then dried. And you have to neutralize it and do the brightener. Like Beth said you cant skip anything when using chems process. Go to Pressure tek and order one of his sample packs. It has everything you need. The stripper / neutralizer and brightener and some simple c and gutter grenade for the house. Its like 35 bucks and enough product for that deck and you can up sale a house wash while your there (1.5 hrs) for 150.00 and make up some profit margin for time already spent.

I did use pressure, white tip 8" away and most of the horizontal woods stain came up but the rails are being the major pain.. The pictures are not the greatest from my camera phone partly cloudy day when the sun hit the deck it looked considerably better but obviously not ready for stain the pics I have are dark and cloudy.. Either way when I go back to see the wood dried up after my 2nd strip I will decide what needs to be done next (stronger dose of stripper again then neutralize) or stain if its actually clean..

Edited by Rob R.

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You cant do a deck without neutralizing. Especially when stripping. Its essential to balance the caustic nature of harsh cleaners. On regular cleaning, the acid will take care of nail stains, open the wood pores, brighten the color, and make for a much better finish

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I asked a simple question in the other thread (stain vs seal) and I have never gotten the same answer from anyone, and it looks like a 2 page debate with disagreement so maybe that wasn't such a 'basic" question after all..

Hi Rob,

Sometimes answers are not all inclusive and but that does not mean that there is disagreement to basic questions that inspired things. Your stain versus sealing question over there is no exception in that most everyone is in agreement that the qualities of most manufactured stains usually involves sealing qualities but a sealer does not have to impart coloration/pigmentation. For instance, many people apply clear synthetic paraffinic sealers such as parafin wax (comes from mineral oil manufacture) without striving for other qualities found in various types of stain such as pigmentation or solid curing resins. They also apply clear top film forming sealers with curing resns to some substrates that are not paraffinic. Traits of sealer is that it can also include clear whereas by definition stains can not...simple answer is of course that seals keep things out but so can stains.

Yes this is crossthreading at some level but you mentioned that debate here so I did not feel it fair to use the subdebate over there as some sort of basis for your deal here...

Good luck on this deck though. I believe you need to focus on using the chems the way everyone is saying and also perhaps tend to defurring or sanding that deck. Pics can be deceiving...if when you go back and it looks bright and dry but it looks muddy when wet then you have a thin film of wood fur that wants removed. Sometimes when ya strip wood and even brighten it you can still get down there after and scrap darker stuff up with yer fingernail. Let dry, if almost bright or patchy bright, defur it.

Edited by MMI Enterprises

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Harsh :) I have done quite a few decks but never had to strip one before..most of the decks I have done were just gray came out real clean w/o any neutralizer and the deck looked great in final results.. The main reason I joined this forum is to better understand what the best of the best are using for even better results to better myself and make my customers happy.. I asked a simple question in the other thread (stain vs seal) and I have never gotten the same answer from anyone, and it looks like a 2 page debate with disagreement so maybe that wasn't such a 'basic" question after all..

Like I said I never had to use a neutralizer/brightener before but I bought plenty of it to try it out, since everyone here is using it to optimize results.. I ask simple questions to see what peoples responses are and alot of times I get mixed views/advice.. I will try and cut down on my stupid questions from here on out

Rob,

They are not stupid questions, at all. Don't stop asking them. But before you take on a new challenge, do the research you need to do, so you don't end up in a real pickle.

All decks need to be neutralized. Your cleaners/strippers are alkaline, wood tends to be slightly acidic, you need to neutralize always. I remember when we learned abut that and it was new to us too. Believe me when I say that once you get the hang of the chems, an eye for the way the wood should look, and learn to finesse the wand, you will love it and the frustration will go down.

No one is trying to knock you, but we are all jumping up and down trying to send the message of study and ready before you do. :)

Beth

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thanks everyone for taking the time to respond.. It's been a long day of cleaning vinyl I need to get back to wood.. I will be taking a trip out to see the deck most likely friday and strip again and neutralize, I bought 6 containers of each might as well put'em to use :)

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It's better to hear harsh here than from one or more unhappy customers wouldn't you agree?

My advice is only trying to help.

I didn't try to discourage you from asking questions and IMHO the only stupid question is the one you should have asked but didn't.

Your posts come across like your pretty new to being in business and the attrition rate of your customer base could be higher in the formative years if you don't get it right the first time than other wise.

Rod!~

Edited by Beth n Rod
correction

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