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Removing Stain from Cedar Shake Siding

Question

I have a past customer that wants me to remove all the old stain/sealant from a 2nd story home. This home has cedar shake shingles on 3 sides of the residence. I would estimate the sq. ft. to be around 2k that has shake.

Here is my question(s):

What chemical and mixture do I need to remove the old stain/sealant? The shakes are almost black in color which tells me they are really dirty. I do not know how much stain this house has on it due to the fact that the owner just bought it and the previous owners did not disclose anything regarding this.

I will need to use a chemical that can stand a consistent and strong wind without an adverse affect if the chemical dries too quickly. I need something that can dwell a little longer than the norm. I can attack the house with 2 rigs and keep the surface wet but I do not want to dilute too much of the chemical as it lays on the surface.

Last but not least -- what is an average charge for something like this?

Thanks!

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Carlos,

I would use Beths EFC-38 (she runs this bbs) Its a great percarb cleaner that will strip most semi-trans sealers when mixed full strength. I would not use any strippers that contain sodium hydroxide. This could do damage to the tar paper under the shingles.

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Carlos,

Whatever you do, don't stop asking these question. That's how you get from newbie to pro. You'll find alot of helpful people up here who are glad to help. Dale is one of them. :)

Carlos, do you have a digital camera you can snap a photo with? If you do it would help. I have the following questions for you. If you don't have the answers, then any you can get from the homeowner would be helpful.

1. Is it a solid stain or canyou see the wood? (semitransparent)

2. if it is solid, are you certain it is stain and not paint?

3. does the owner know what brand it is? If yes what brand and how long ago was it applied?

Dale is right that in many cases EFC-38 will work just fine for this type of application if what is on the wood is a semitransparent oil based sealer. But, depending on the product, you might need something stronger like HD-80. I would suggest doing a test patch with EFC-38 to see if it will do it at full strength before suggesting the HD-80. If not, then test the HD-80 and see. Regardless, you will have to neutralize /brighten the cedar with citralic or another acid type as cedar does darken considerably.

The black you are looking at is not necessarily dirt. Most likely you are looking at mildew growth from a failed sealer. Ask if Behr was what was applied. If it was, you'll need the HD-80. The reason many sealers fail is due to poor or no mildewcide or antifungal agent in the product that was applied. If you add that to any mildew that may be present on the wood, and if there is linseed oil in the product, you will get a spreading of mildew throughout the application and the finish will fail. Proper surface prep is key. I suggest sealing this job with Wood Tux. We have not seen any mildew regrowth after last years wet season. It's amazing stuff.

Call me anytime. Our toll free number and other contact info are below. for what to charge, call me and I'll go over that too. I have more question about terrain, etc. in order to answer. This is worth aloth more that you may think. You need to know about masking windows, doors, lighting, covering plants, etc...

A digital photo of each side would help alot.

Beth

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Carlos,

I cleaned and sealed a similar type of house last Summer. There was failed dark stain on the 2 story house. I ended up using EFC-38 with a little HD-80. I then brightened with citrolic. After letting dry I applied the honey gold wood tux. Job turned out great. Hi Beth. Been a while since we spoke. Make sure U rinse thoroughly and use minimal pressure since you are dealing with soft wood.

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Thanks Paul ~ appreciate the feed back. I am meeting with the client next week to discuss everything in detail.

If things work out -- should be placing an order with Beth on ALL the chemicals that I need.

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Guest rfitz

Here is a good starting point, for pricing your strip jobs,

For decks, docks, etc $ start at $1.50 per sq ft and go up from there,

For siding, double that number, and for roofs, double the siding number, for example, Decks, $1.50 Siding $3.00 a sq ft, and roofs minimum $5.00 a sq ft

and remember that is a starting point, and go up from there on each,

Now I am referring to stripping, washing, britening, and staining/sealing 2 lite coats, what most folks in this business get confused with is they think stripping and washing are the same thing, there are very far apart, and 2 totally different procedures, and yes EFC 38 is a great product for stripping semitransparent stain/sealer without damaging wood, felt etc.. If you dont start at these prices I mentioned, you wont be in business long....

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Guest rfitz

That price includes everything, although in my estimates/contracts, in fine print under terms and conditions, it cleary states, when starting a stain/ paint strip removal job, if we find paint, acrylic, or other type similar product under

old finishes, the job would be billed at an additional 75 cents per sq ft, and will show the hidden finish to the customer before proceeding, I have gotten burned way too many times with Behr stains and the like, so now I cover my butt, and some people say do a test when estimating, and I just dont have the time, I am bidding 30-40 plus jobs a week, and I am on every job site,

now my wife does the estimating alot of the time, with a tape measure, digital camera, at nite I look at the measurements, look at the deck, the close up shot of the finish, and then call the customer before mailing a bid If I think a funny product / finish may be on the deck, fence, roof whatever... and get all the info, age of wood, products they know might be on them.. etc,.. and bill / estimate accordingly, the bottom line is, if their wood has a behr or similar paint like finish, they have ruined the wood like appearance, and only very few companies like mine can actually bring it back to like original, at least here where I live, very few if any besides our company actually strip, old finishes off, and when I educate the customer on our process, even at double or triple the cost of the competetion, we get the job, if they want quality work, if someone calls, asking for prices over the phone, you probably dont want to waste your time on that bid.. I dont, and wont, my time is too valuable as yours is...

Hope This Helps...?

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Rob,

Read your post 3 times ~ THANKS FOR THE INFO.. Okay, so on this particular job we are looking at 1650 sq ft. of cedar shake ~ siding only. If we drop your formula into this($3.00 sq.ft) then we are looking at around $4950.00. I verbally told him it would cost between 4-5k without even looking at the house ~ so I am in the "ball park". I am pretty sure he is willing to entertain additional costs due to the fact that we have serviced other properties for him and done a terrific job for him.

I am ordering a sample cleaning kit from Beth in a day or two. I want to give him a small demo. This will also allow me to really see what is on this cedar. He is a past customer of mine and I do want to take this all the way with him if possible.

Thanks again Rob and sorry for the "late" reply to your thread....things are busy in N. CA right now. Today it hit 93 degrees and people want things cleaned before Memorial Day in May

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Guest rfitz

No Problem, Anytime, So far this week, we have cleaned over 4500 sq ft of cedar fencing, cedar shake, and a couple decks, and its only tuesday, I think by Friday if the weather holds out I should hit almost 8000 Sq ft of wood washed stripped, etc.. Busy Busy, week...: ) Hope All goes good with that job for you..

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