Enclosed trailer users

[dk34 14]

I ordered an enclosed trailer for my washer & equipment, and wanted to know what others with this type of trailer are using to prolong the life of the floor? It is 3/4" plywood.

I was thinking along the lines of rubber roofing or some type of epoxy paint. Thanks in advance.

[CompletelyClean 14]

I have an epoxy paint on my floor and 12" up the side of the walls for added protection.

[Firedkm 14]

I used a waterproof type outside paint that has sand in it for traction. I only went up the wall 4 inches.

[Dave O 15]

Waterproofer for wood, waterproof paints etc. Don't recommend any rubber floorings due to the fact of water will some how find its way under and keep the wood wet then you will have a rotting problem. Something always tends to spill or leak in a moving environment.

[CCHSNC 14]

Go to Sherwin Williams tell them you want an epoxy floor coating for wood. When you get it mix the 2 parts in a bucket, add a couple hand fulls of sand. I would suggest putting some on the walls then the floor.

[Aplus 525]

I have an enclosed 5x8 that I've been using since 97, and I left the floor bare. It's 3/4" marine grade plywood, and I have had no problems whatsoever.

This particular rig is outfitted with two cold water portables, and carries all my deck strippers and stains. I drag so much equipment in and out, that if I had a solid painted floor, I probably would have scraped everything off anyway.

Countless chems, gas, stains, and water have spilled on the floor, yet it is still solid like new. However it is a dirty floor and not as attractive as some.

The fact is you can go either way with the floor, but if I had to do it over again, I probably would have painted it just for appearance sake.

Speaking of trailers though, has anyone considered spraying the underside with undercoating? Now that's something I wish I would have done.

[John T 744]

I also bought my 7x12' enclosed trailer in 97 and it has the original 3/4" plywood floor in it and I never did anything to change it. In this trailer I keep most of my equipment that I use including 2 cold water powerwasher and a Hot water rig. I've spilt Stains, gas,chemical and tons of water in there and the floor is still rock solid.

Still I guess it can't hurt to protect this floor with an epoxy paint etc. if you have the time.

Here's a picture of this trailer from a 2 years ago. Today it also has some shurflo sprayers in there along with some other new things.

[dk34 14]

Thanks for your replies. I ordered an epoxy for wood, with an abrasive additive. Putting it 6" up the walls, after caulking the wall joint is a good idea as well. Thanks again. Dan

[CCPC 26]

I was wondering, when running your pressure washer inside an enclosed trailer what do you do about the carbon dioxide fumes. I was looking at John T. picture of his rig and it looks like he has some sort of venting system. I have an open trailer now, but I would like to get an enclosed trailer soon.

[RyanH 14]

Leave all doors open and the vent hood at the top to allow as much of a draft through as you can. You could run a muffler extension from your exhaust port to an outside area (either a door or through the hood), or you could make a permanent vent with an exhaust fan. I haven't done it in an enclosed trailer (oh how I would LOVE too, though), but I have read other posts on this board claiming that the heat can become a real problem in the summer. If you have a generator on your pressure washer, you might consider hooking a fan up and blowing some fresh air into (or creating a draft out of ) your trailer for good circulation.

[Gavin 14]

Yeah, you've got to vent that thing out of the top or your machine won't be able to breathe (even with the doors open). I actually have my burner and my Honda both vented out of the top ( Y'd together inside). I had a local pressure washer supply/repair store vent mine for me.

I have the 3/4 floor bare in my 6 X 10 (still wish I would have gotten the 7 X 12 for storage space) and have seen no signs of weakness. I did drill 1/4" holes in the corners and a few in the middle for drainage but I don't get to much water inside anyway. Plenty of fuel/oil/chemical spills (no matter how hard I try). I have a Cargo Express and the guy told me that floor could be completely submerged for 2 weeks and it wouldn't warp it. I wouldn't want to test that theory but to date I haven't had any problems.

Question of my own. I'm trying to figure out a better way to secure my 16' ladder to the inside of my trailer. The walls are balsa (I think) or something really flimsy and don't hold weight. I don't really want to drill through the shell if I don't have to. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

[RyanH 14]

The frame should consist of metal ribs every foot or so, so maybe you can drill into those and secure a ladder holder with metal screws (easiest method). If you wanted to take more time, you could remove the walls so that you can get to the side of the ribs (don't know if that's the proper term, but it conveys the meaning) and bolt the holder in. It would be much stronger and support more weight, but you would have to cut a notch out of the plywood to accomodate it when you put the wall back on.

You could also attach holders to the ceiling of the trailer. My grandad had a similar setup in a van years ago and it was easier to get the ladder in/out than having to hang it on the wall.

[Aplus 525]

The only way I've found to attach things to the trailer walls, is to use appropriately sized self-tapping metal screws, and screw right into the vertical metal supports in the walls. They are often but not always 16" on-center. It's easy to find them because the plywood walls are also attached to the supports via a similar self-tapping screw.

Also make sure you buy the right type of bracket or hanger, etc....that is designed for the task you seek.