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Permachink Lifeline Ultra 2, ReadySeal Advice?

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Hiya Folks,

I'm building a deck attached to a cabin in the northern mountains of New Mexico. I've been gathering samples of the various sealers/stains to use not only on the deck, but also to use on the cabin. The cabin is log (pine I believe but not certain). It currently has Penofin on it so that will have to be stripped. The deck will have Ipe decking but the handrails/posts are pine logs. Without making a final decision, I have been leaning towards using Readyseal on everything based on the numerous opinions expressed on these boards. But, after talking with the owner of the mill that I'm getting my logs from, he recommended taking a look at the permachink system. He's been in business for quite a while up here and that's the only sealer/stain system he uses so he obviously likes it. So now I'm thinking about maybe doing all the logs/cabin in the Permachink and the ipe decking with the ReadySeal. I'm not crazy about having two different products to worry about but I think the ReadySeal is probably a bit better for the horizontal decking. Now, for the deck posts/handrails I will probably resort to brushing whereas the cabin and decking would probably be sprayed. So a few questions for those in the know. How does the Permachink Ultra-2 system brush out? I'm not a real fan of having to meticulously brush to avoid overlaps so curious to see if this product is relatively user friendly. How does the Permachink system hold up to the elements relative to ReadySeal? Our climate is pretty variable (currently 3 ft of snow on the ground right now!) with some very dry weather (try 12% humidity), some very heavy rains/snow, extreme temps, and I can't say enough about the sun here....very high UV Index. Sorry for such a long post! I guess at the end of the day, I'm looking for advice on which way you professionals would go! Thanks very much for your time!

Cheers,

J. Culbertson

Edited by Beth n Rod

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If this is your own home I wood go with Ready Seal. The simple issue of maintenance and re-application of product makes RS easier in the long run. It will also lock out moisture and preserve the wood better.

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Thanks Beth. How would you rate the permachink vs. Readyseal in terms of performance? Is the permachink difficult to brush? If I go with it on the deck posts/handrails, I'd probably hire out the cabin as I just don't have the proper tools (ie. pressure washer, scaffolding, etc....) and have them use the permachink.

Thanks!

jlc

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Thanks Beth. I've got samples of the Permachink, AC, ReadySeal, and Outlast so I'll probably just do up some sample boards and go from there. I don't think I can go wrong with any of them but want to get the best protection I can given the environment it'll be subjected to.

Cheers,

jlc

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I do alot of Cabins in the South, where the Temperature is quite different than were you are, but i have been using Perma-Chink products for about six years. I think they are some of the best on the market! They stand behind what they sell. As far as brushing out the product, we pretty much spray our Cabins with an Airless Sprayer and backbrush as needed. It sounds like you are going to brush the whole Cabin? Am i right? I agree with Beth on the perma-chink deck stain, although, they have come out with a new product for Decks, i used it on a job this past summer in Cincinnati, and the application was great, looked fantastic, but i don't know anything about how it will look or hold up long term! As far as the Ipe decking, i've never sealed one of those! Good Luck, and Happy New Year!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Thanks Retro,

No I wouldn't be brushing the whole cabin! I was thinking of using the permachink on everything but the ipe (handrails, posts, etc) and then hiring out someone to come in and clean/seal the cabin. I don't mind doing the work but just don't have the necessary safety equipment to get up high.

Cheers,

jlc

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What does hiring a Pro have to do with the best way to lock out Moisture and the Preservation the wood ?

One way is to seal out Moisture is by using many coats of a product that lay on top of the Logs and form a Film along with filling voids with stuff.

Another way to keep out Moisture is to Soak the logs with as much oil as it can take . Sending this oil into every nook and cranny to prevent moisture from entering and you still can fill voids.

There are Philosophical differences in protecting a log. And I did get the guy from Permachink to agree with me at a seminar on sealing out moisture !

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What does hiring a Pro have to do with the best way to lock out Moisture and the Preservation the wood ?

The only reason for me hiring out the cabin is for safety. I can't get up high enough without scaffolding and I'm really not in a mood to buy scaffolding that gets used once every two years or so. I may change my mind as I've sealed it twice now from the top of a ladder but I didn't enjoy it.

Cheers,

jlc

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The nearest rental yard is 60 miles away and is not cheap! I'd probably make my money back buying vs. renting. That being said, I am keeping my eye out for used as I'm sure I can always find a use for it.

Cheers,

cc

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