gregative 18 Report post Posted February 22, 2009 Changing the generator on my pw'r. Removed everything easily except the wheel on the arm that holds the belt. Put some WD40 on but not having luck. Is there a trick? I removed the two bolts that appeared to put tension on the pulley wheel but that didn't seem to help. It's Sun 3:00 & would like to finish replacing today. If anyone gets this message & has time to call me please do. I'll be trying to figure it out & not at the computer. Thanks so much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted February 22, 2009 post a couple pic.. such is usually just a simple engineering task that needs deciphered. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henry Bockman 14 Report post Posted February 22, 2009 (edited) Usually there are two or four bolts that hold it in place, if you look closely you will see two threaded holes in the pully that don't line up with any threads, take two of the bolts and place them in the threaded holes in the pulley, and slowly tighten them down equally, this will pull the pulley off. Your pump and pulley may vary but this is usually how it's done. Edited February 22, 2009 by Henry Bockman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregative 18 Report post Posted February 22, 2009 Sorry no pics. Cameraphone went thru washing machine and my friend dropped my digicam. Waiting 1 more week til phone contract is up so i can get a deal on a new one. Been using a 49.99 dealeo to get me thru. Sure have missed a lot of good shots over a couple of months. Spoke to a couple people that said I need a "puller" that can be bought at the auto place. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregative 18 Report post Posted February 22, 2009 Ahhh, I see the xtra holes that can accomodate a bolt that when tightened would force it off. Sadly the two bolts that tighten it down are about 3mm to long to use. Have to hit the hardware store tommorow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Douglas Hicks 128 Report post Posted February 23, 2009 it is not a "wheel", it is a pulley. the bolts need to be longer so when they are threaded into the pulley hub, they will seat against the shaft and force the pulley off. Put some penetrating oil in the bolt holes and where the pulley and shaft interface. Turn each bolt in the same distance, about 5 turns max. Then turn them in again, about 5 turns. If you are feeling resistance, stop and tap the pulley with a rubber mallet or wooden mallet. If you hit hte pulley w/a metal hammer you could find out how much a new pulley will cost. If you do buy new bolts, get at least a grade 5, preferably a grade 8. You might find grade 5 at the hardware store, but to get grade 8 you will have to go to a parts house. Not Home Cheapo or Blowes, they will sell you a grade 2 and tell you it is a good as the grade 5 or grade 8. When you put hte pulley back on, make sure to use some anti-seize on the shaft. Make sure the pulley height is the same as the other pulley. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted February 23, 2009 Ditto on all the above. Wasn't sure from first post if you were refurring to a tensioner type setup or what. If it standard cast pulley on main shaft then the grade 8 bolting method is the way to go. Some older pulley setups on various machines may not have the bolt setup though and ya got to get creative with puller methods. I had one on a tapered shaft so good one tme that even after soaking with liquid wrench penetrator and removing the key that it would not budge with all sorts of pry fork methods and hammering, etc. I used a puller to finally get it. That case worked out as the pulley was machined instead of a cast pulley. I split the shaft actually instead which must of been an unbelievable amount of force I was giving it. Think that one I even tried heating and hammering on things while under pressure. Sometimes without the bolt setups a quik shock with hammer does the trick and they'll pop off just fine. Btw..I just welded and ground down that shaft I broke and machine was back in service in no time. Remember to check for set screws and consider drilling any stuck keys out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Douglas Hicks 128 Report post Posted February 23, 2009 Some parts houses/rental stores will rent you a puller. Pullers come different sizes and configurations. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PWkid 79 Report post Posted February 23, 2009 The only time you should need a puller is if it is siezed on the shaft or it is so tight the bolts break when tightening down to loosen the pulley. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregative 18 Report post Posted February 24, 2009 Thanks everyone, My buddy owns a car a.c. shop and had what I needed. A "puller" of sorts. From a few other calls you can get these from a local auto shop. Set back up and did my patio while I was at it. Worked it to see what happened after I replaced. Kept waiting for it to fly off at 200mph & kill me but was happily suprised. Thanks for all the advice turned out to be a good thread. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R L S 14 Report post Posted February 24, 2009 When in doubt get a bigger hammer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted February 25, 2009 Sometimes the key that holds the pulley in place can get bent from the torque of the engine vs the pumps capacity. You will need a pulley puller. You can pick one up at most auto parts stores for around $50.00 or less. Pulley Puller and Installer Set from Overstock.com Rod!~ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted February 25, 2009 Mines more of a gear puller with arms and center bolt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
