Ready to Seal

[jmyrick11 16]

Cleaning the deck went much better than I thought it would, it being my first time. I used Percarb & Citric. I had some slight furring, but mainly on the spindles. Now it's on to finish the deck, if it ever stops raining long enough for the deck to dry out. I've been wrestling with the idea of using a 4" brush to do the deck or get a truck brush (deck is basically 14' x 14') and don't want to go overbaord with using a truck brush. Might stick with the hand brush and just take my time. Any recommendations?

[big mike 14]

Look at a 7" or 9" Shurline pad and a pole. They offer good control and it'll save your back. Available at most large box stores or paint supply houses.

[RPetry 564]

Jason,

Application method is often determined by the stain being used. What stain are you using, and what is the specie of wood?

[jmyrick11 16]

AC Semi Trans and on PTW

[RPetry 564]

Jason,

I would not use a truck wash brush with A-C. A 4" or better yet, a 6" natural bristle brush with a "screw" type socket fitting on the end of the handle works well for large areas. Purchase a compatible threaded pole, and you can stain the floor standing up.

Purchase a 2 or 2.5" natural bristle tapered brush for tighter areas. Clean all brushes with mineral spirits after use and they will last a long time.

Take care in applying A-C, it will lap. Fully complete each board before further staining. Do your railing and vertical wood first, and put a tarp down underneath each rail section to prevent dripping on the deck floor.

[jmyrick11 16]

Thanks for the information. I chose AC, one of the main rasons, was ease of application. Of course I knew the potential for lapping though.

You say to do the railing and verticals first. I was hoping to be able to get the decking and stairs done first so I could start getting stuff back up on the deck and then move on to the railings and such when I was able to over the course of a few days. while I know this isn't "ideal" are there any issues with this approach?

[RPetry 564]

Jason,

No, you can stain the floor first if you prefer.

Wood contractors generally start on the rails and vertical wood for a few reasons. First, it is the most labor intensive part of the job and it is just great to get it done. Second, vertical wood dries out quicker than horizontal wood, so it is ready to be stained sooner / earlier in the day. Third, to stain the inside of a rail system, you have to walk on the horizontal wood. With a drying oil such as linseed, this can take a while and you do not want to "track" the stain.

[jmyrick11 16]

Gotcha, makes sense. It might not matter since the 2 week forecast has dry 2 days, rain, dry 2 days and rain!!!! Might never get done anyway

[jmyrick11 16]

2 gallons enough you think...might just get 3 to be safe and maintenance, if and when needed

[RPetry 564]

Gotcha, makes sense. It might not matter since the 2 week forecast has dry 2 days, rain, dry 2 days and rain!!!! Might never get done anyway

I hear 'ya. Being in NJ, we get your weather about 8 hrs. later. Spring is always a challenge. Yesterday we prepped our first job of the season, it was absolutely beautiful.

Today, intermittent heavy rain, thunderstorms, and a flood watch. Can't even do estimates properly.

In talking with Jake Clark and Mark of A-C, if I recall correctly they suggest a max. of 16% wood moisture content before applying their stain. As I'm sure you do not own a moisture meter, look for two full day/night cycles of dry weather prior to applying stain. Sun, warm temps. and a bit of wind also help a lot in drying out wood.

Start later in the day if there has been dew overnight. Also try and have a window of at least 12, but better yet 24 hrs. of dry weather after stain application.

[jmyrick11 16]

Yeah, that's what I'm hoping and waiting for. I can get the 2 days and nights it seems, just the 3rd day is rain. now if I could tent my deck on that 3rd day then apply the stain I'd be set!!!!

[RPetry 564]

2 gallons enough you think...might just get 3 to be safe and maintenance, if and when needed

Jason,

It depends on the condition of your wood, pressure treated can take a fair amount of stain if it is old, has not been maintained, cracked, etc. Also the design of the balustrade, size of fascia, # of posts and exposed joists matters in overall sq. footage.

2 gals. may be cutting it close, I'd prefer to have 3 gals. on hand.

[jmyrick11 16]

Yeah, the more and more I have been thinking the more I have been leanign that way. Escpecially after cleaning I used more than I was expecting

The PTW is about 5 years old and besides orignal Thompsons, nothing had been done

Thanks for all of the help

[jmyrick11 16]

one other thing...if the weather doesn't cooperate how long before I would have to reclean before sealing?

[RPetry 564]

one other thing...if the weather doesn't cooperate how long before I would have to reclean before sealing?

A lot depends on sun exposure. If the wood starts turning gray, redo. But the prep should be fine for certainly 2.5 - 3 weeks.

[jmyrick11 16]

ok, because if I have to redo the cleaning again I might just build a new one!!! Of course should be much easier this time.

[jmyrick11 16]

finished

Edited April 10, 2009 by jmyrick11

[jmyrick11 16]

Good call on the 6"...I ordered a Wooster while I got the stain. Worked great on the decking and steps. I'd still be on my hands and knees if I had stuck with the 4"...for some reason I was thinking I had 2x4's as decking, not 2x6's!!!!