DutrowLLC 14 Report post Posted December 5, 2009 Looks like tonight will be the first night of the year that pumps could freeze up (getting down to around 26F) All last year I ran antifreeze through the pumps to keep them from freezing. However, a month or so ago, I spoke to a maintenance guy about using my air compressor to do it. From what I remember, he told me to hook the air hose up to the outlet and then let the compressor run for about 45 minutes. This is a lot easier and cheaper for me to do than run antifreeze through the machine, but also sounds like a good way to break something if I don't know what I'm doing. Are there any other steps to this? Do I need to release something in the pump to keep from breaking a valve or anything like that? Thanks so much! Chris Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John T 744 Report post Posted December 5, 2009 Hey Chris, I would say that as a last resort you could run the air thru the machine and that is better then doing nothing at all but I would always recommend running antifreeze thru your machine because that is the best way from keeping the pump from Freeze damage. What I do is run the antifreeze into a tank that I have on a dolly. This tank is already mixed with antifreeze and water. What I do from there is hook this tank to any of my machines and run the powerwashing hose back into this tank once I see the green antifreeze coming thru the hose. I then turn off the ball valve for a second or two on the powerwashing hose so the antifreeze gets into every part of the pump then I open the ball valve and back into the tank goes the antifreeze. Then I turn off the engine and disconnect. I then also with my air compressor sometimes blow out the extra antifreeze in the Powerwashing hose back into this holding tank. On another hot water skid I have I just poor Antifreeze mixed with water into the the float tank and run the powerwasher. This I also run into my holding tank thats on the dolly. I also blow out any hoses I have with the compressor and also the surface machines to be on the safe side. For my wands I just squeeze them and make sure there is no water in them. Sound like alot but all of this only takes a few minutes. P/S- I haven't done any of this yet because were supposed to Powerwash here tomorrow but now there talking snow even though the low here is only supposed to be around 34. So tomorrow I will winterize all my equipment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Douglas Hicks 128 Report post Posted December 5, 2009 do a search, every year this topic is discussed. Does your maintanence guy actually have a PW? When I used air, it took less than 5 minutes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DutrowLLC 14 Report post Posted December 5, 2009 do a search, every year this topic is discussed. Does your maintanence guy actually have a PW? When I used air, it took less than 5 minutes. I spent about an hour searching before I posted this topic. I didn't find much about how to do it with an air compressor. I should be more clear though. One of my machines is in the process of being fixed so it doesn't have a gas tank attached to it. I need to winterize it without being able to turn it on. This is a big reason why I want to use the air compressor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grant 500 Report post Posted December 5, 2009 Temperatures here are dropping also. We might have to roll the windows up tonight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 14 Report post Posted December 6, 2009 I use air to clear the coils, lines, hoses, unloader, etc. I run antifreeze into the pump. Had a coil freeze and burst with RV antifreeze a couple of years back, and don't want to go through that EVER again. Also, there's a hex fitting on the bottom of most unloaders that you need to let the water out of, and pull the burst disc also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Celeste 341 Report post Posted December 6, 2009 Winterizing with an air compressor works just fine. I don't know how he did it but Roger's number is 336-516-6139 - he can walk you through multiple ways to winterize. We've had to drain and blow (no antifreeze) because we were still working during the days. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanhoods 43 Report post Posted December 6, 2009 I spent about an hour searching before I posted this topic. I didn't find much about how to do it with an air compressor.I should be more clear though. One of my machines is in the process of being fixed so it doesn't have a gas tank attached to it. I need to winterize it without being able to turn it on. This is a big reason why I want to use the air compressor. Just get a short hose on the supply side or use your supply tank and pour antifreeze into it and turn your pump by hand and keep doing all steps untill you see the antifreeze come out and you will be ready. Marko;) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanhoods 43 Report post Posted December 6, 2009 (edited) :lgkeyboarAntifreeze is the way to go,the green.:alien:It also helps keep the heating coil cleaned out as well.Been treating this way for 12 years on my main machine and have not had a problem. My buudy treats with window washer fluid,but i like the antifreeze better,goes a long way. Marko Edited December 6, 2009 by cleanhoods Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John T 744 Report post Posted December 6, 2009 I like the anifreeze better also because there are times here we get to around ZERO degree and sometimes even lower so its nice to know I have all my plumbing protected by a strong mixed of the Green Stuff. Today I did just that..antifreezed everything that needed it and blew out the hoses and surface machines etc with the compressor. Talk about waiting to the last minute but tonight is the first night where supposed to hit the freezing level here..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lawnboy 14 Report post Posted December 6, 2009 I unhook my water tank,hooked up my float tank filled with antifreeze,and run my hose reel jumper back to my float tank, cranked my machine until i saw green coming out. I was just wondering if this would protect everything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 14 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) You guys should be using pink RV antifreeze (Propylene Glycol) It is easier on the seals in your pump and won't corrode like fittings like the the "green stuff" does. Also, the pink is rated at -50 degrees, but I wouldn't count on any manufaturers claims on that. I had the coil crack at -30, so now I make sure to clear the entire system, except pump, with air. Two other benefits of Pink over green: 1- pink doesn't kill animals 2-you can use it to boost sodium hydroxide. Edited December 7, 2009 by big mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Douglas Hicks 128 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 You guys should be using pink RV antifreeze (Propylene Glycol) It is easier on the seals in your pump and won't corrode like fittings like the the "green stuff" does. Also, the pink is rated at -50 degrees, but I wouldn't count on any manufaturers claims on that. I had the coil crack at -30, so now I make sure to clear the entire system, except pump, with air. Two other benefits of Pink over green: 1- pink doesn't kill animals 2-you can use it to boost sodium hydroxide. I have heard of antifreeze killing animals because they like the taste. I have drained antifreeze into open containers, left the container out until it froze and never knew of any animal being killed because they drank antifreeze. I call that story BS. I used ethylene antifreeze for years w/o any problem with the coil, seals or pump. Now, I just blow out the lines w/air. Shall we next discuss nitrogen in tires? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pat Norman 18 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 I have heard of antifreeze killing animals because they like the taste. I have drained antifreeze into open containers, left the container out until it froze and never knew of any animal being killed because they drank antifreeze. I call that story BS. I used ethylene antifreeze for years w/o any problem with the coil, seals or pump. Now, I just blow out the lines w/air. Shall we next discuss nitrogen in tires? Ethylene definitely kills any animal that drinks enough. I met a guy once that tried to kill himself with it. Turns your insides to gel. He barely made it out alive and has to have kidney dialysis now for the rest of his life. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Tharpe 40 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 we had a family friend try to kill his self using antifreeze earlier this year. Not sure how he is doing at this point of even if he made it out alive but he did drink a gallon of it and was in the hospital for at least a month the last I herd about it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 14 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 My last dog drank antifreeze and died. Ethylene kills, its not some urban legend. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanhoods 43 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 You guys should be using pink RV antifreeze (Propylene Glycol) It is easier on the seals in your pump and won't corrode like fittings like the the "green stuff" does. Also, the pink is rated at -50 degrees, but I wouldn't count on any manufaturers claims on that. I had the coil crack at -30, so now I make sure to clear the entire system, except pump, with air. Two other benefits of Pink over green: 1- pink doesn't kill animals 2-you can use it to boost sodium hydroxide. :stupid:The"green stuff":lol::lgangry: wont hurt your machine cause if that were the case all the vehicles seals would go to crap:lgbonk: and the aluminum radiator would as well.Like i said i have used it for 12 years and i just rebuild my machine after 10 years of use go figure.One thing it does protect from the cold:lgcold:And also any chemical that you may drink even the rv antifreeze will kill or cause some kind of damage.Rv antifreeze just washes out of the system unlike auto antifreeze.But still poison:lgsick::lgwave::lghohoho: Marko Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 14 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 Well Marko, not to burst your bubble, but RV antifreeze costs about $2.00 - $3.00 a gallon, where as Green costs $6.00 - $8.00 per gallon. Plus, Mr Pink protects to lower temps than Mr Green. Win / win. Mr. Green will damage automotive systems if undiluted to 50/50. Once you dilute it, its good to -20. Mr pink can be used undiluted and protect to -50. An important factor if you live north of the Mason/Dixon. :lgcold: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Douglas Hicks 128 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 Well Marko, not to burst your bubble, but RV antifreeze costs about $2.00 - $3.00 a gallon, where as Green costs $6.00 - $8.00 per gallon. Plus, Mr Pink protects to lower temps than Mr Green. Win / win. Mr. Green will damage automotive systems if undiluted to 50/50. Once you dilute it, its good to -20. Mr pink can be used undiluted and protect to -50. An important factor if you live north of the Mason/Dixon. :lgcold: There are several antifreeze solutions. Ethylene glycol is the antifreeze solution used in water cooled engines. Mixed w/47 % water,it will protect to -40° F, normally the mix is 50/50. I was not aware that straight Mr Green will damage automotive systems. I must of missed that during several years in the automotive repair industry. proplylene glycol can protect to -60°F if used with 40% water. I think RV antifreeze comes diluted to +10°Fwith a burst pressure rated at -50°F I buy glycerine USP & add 30% H2O for a freezing point of -40° F for fire sprinkler systems. The USP means it is made to United States Pharmacopia at 96.9 % pure. You can drink the stuff, but after it sits in a pipe for several years, it gets nasty. Well BigMike, not to burst your bubble, but RV antifreeze at $2..0- 3.00 a gallon will protect to +10 °F. Mr Green at $6.00 to $8.00 a gallon will make a mix of 50/50 that will protect to -40°F for a final cost of $3.00 to $4.00 a gallon. So I can protect my PW to -40°F for $1.00 - $2.00 more than your pre-mixxed stuff. I also know that I can reuse my Mr Green several times before the mix is too weak to protect my machine. When I did use antifreeze, I used less than 5 gallons during the winter. Big Mike, I see you are from Minnestoa, I understand it gets cold there. The coldest I have done pressure washing, was +4 F. But the coldest I have held a hose was -35°F. And I wished I had 3 layers of long johns under my turnouts, not just 2 layers. thankyoumarko used to llive where temps dropped down as well, somewhere East of the Mason-Dixon line. Sources FAQ Winterizations Ethylene glycol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Polyethylene glycol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia NFPA 25 Table 2-3.4(a) and Table 2-3.4(b) 1998 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanhoods 43 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 Well Marko, not to burst your bubble, but RV antifreeze costs about $2.00 - $3.00 a gallon, where as Green costs $6.00 - $8.00 per gallon. Plus, Mr Pink protects to lower temps than Mr Green. Win / win. Mr. Green will damage automotive systems if undiluted to 50/50. Once you dilute it, its good to -20. Mr pink can be used undiluted and protect to -50. An important factor if you live north of the Mason/Dixon. :lgcold: :lgkeyboarOk one you havnt bursted any bubbles:lgangry: and for 2 rv anti freeze may be cheaper by the gallon of the shelf but the green is cheaper in the long run and diluted,rv cannot be dilutedcause it loses its protection on the back of rv antifreeze it states not to dilute.Now for the protection of system and parts i guess my friends at PEAK will help with that:lglolly:PEAK™ Antifreeze & Coolant Select Another ProductPEAK AntifreezePEAK Ready UsePEAK Global LifeTimePEAK Global LifeTime 50/50PEAK LongLifePEAK LongLife 50/50PEAK Cooling System FluidsPEAK Radiator Radiator Chemical AccessoriesPEAK Backup CamerasPEAK Battery ChargersPEAK Jump-StartersPEAK Power InvertersAll WeatherSierraDeicer CleanerWindshield WashRV & Marine AntifreezeUltra MeltAdvance AntifreezeFull ForceFleet ChargeFleet Charge 50/50Final Charge Ext. LifePEAK MicrofiberPeak Cutting Edge WipersPEAK All Season WipersPEAK Max-Vision WipersPEAK Winter WipersMr Clean Windshield WashMr Clean Wiper BladesMr Clean Appearance ChemicalsMr Clean AutodryFebreze F.A.Q.(frequently asked questions) M.S.D.S. (material safety data sheets) Universal car and truck formula meets or exceeds all ASTM and SAE performance standards. The patented formula protects against corrosion of all cooling system metals, including aluminum, while providing maximum freeze-up and boil-over protection. Universal car and truck formula Maximum freeze-up/boil-over protection -84°F to +278°F Meets or exceeds all major automobile manufacturers specifications Patented aluminum protection Provides year round protection against rust and corrosion There you go and Douglas your welcome and thank you for having my back.:lgwave:Big Mike get your facts straight first before you believe in something it ends up biting you. :bullistic:golf::lghohoho: Marko Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanhoods 43 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 :wave::wave::lgkick::lglolly::deal::rotfl::club::whip::beerchug::beerchug::seeya::seeya::seeya::seeya:THE END Marko Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
homemechanixcny 14 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 For those that have a heated area to store thier equipment during the cold winter months.... Beware. I would still protect the equipment from freezing. Here in the great white north it get's cold. I thought I was safe by keeping my stuff in a friends heated garage so I didn't winterize anything. Well lo and behold we got a bad ice storm that killed the power for 3 days before it was restored. At the time I didn't even think that it would get cold enough in the garage as it is attached to his house. Well it did freeze and trashed my pump and hoses. The outside temp was averaging in low the teens at night. Yes it is a long shot that something like this would happen but it does. My thinking now is better to be safe than sorry for the very minimal cost outlay to protect your investment. It only costs a few bucks but it is better than paying hundreds if not thousands for new equipment. So now I winterize everything, If we get a warm spell and I use my eqiupment I winterize it again before putting it back in storage. It also keeps things lubricated during the down time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanhoods 43 Report post Posted December 7, 2009 For those that have a heated area to store thier equipment during the cold winter months.... Beware. I would still protect the equipment from freezing. Here in the great white north it get's cold. I thought I was safe by keeping my stuff in a friends heated garage so I didn't winterize anything. Well lo and behold we got a bad ice storm that killed the power for 3 days before it was restored. At the time I didn't even think that it would get cold enough in the garage as it is attached to his house. Well it did freeze and trashed my pump and hoses. The outside temp was averaging in low the teens at night. Yes it is a long shot that something like this would happen but it does. My thinking now is better to be safe than sorry for the very minimal cost outlay to protect your investment. It only costs a few bucks but it is better than paying hundreds if not thousands for new equipment. So now I winterize everything, If we get a warm spell and I use my eqiupment I winterize it again before putting it back in storage. It also keeps things lubricated during the down time. That is the way i do,when the cold season comes green antifreeze is always in my power washers systems period,i tried rv anti freeze and because it got watered down through my system and 15 degree weather my pump froze which cause a crack so not long ago i rebuild my entire system and wen tback to the old green where i have not had a problem out of. Marko Share this post Link to post Share on other sites