Panefully Clear 14 Report post Posted December 9, 2009 Hello all, I put up a 5" gutter on the back of my house. The metal roof overhangs into it a couple inches, so when I tried to use a caulking gun to seal it in the joints, I couldn't get a lot of it. I thought I did, but the joints leak like sieves. What would you do? Can I remove the sealant? It's on kind of thick. If I do get that off, what else can I seal it with? Thank you for any help you come up with! Vic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 14 Report post Posted December 9, 2009 Hi Vic, Are these plastic style gutters? If so, I've never had luck sealing them properly, and ultimately shelled out the dough for some seamless ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
James 625 Report post Posted December 9, 2009 You might have to take it off the gutter to caulk or I can't picture your problem ? Also gutters for metal roofs and glass solarium roofs need to be bigger or adjusted to make sure they work( capture the water). The water runs down at a much faster speed and over shoots the gutter on these type of roofs. I've seen this many times . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gutterdog 14 Report post Posted December 10, 2009 for one I wouldnt use caulk. Its water base. Silicone is better. Its oil base. Clear silicone is best. You can get it at lowes or home depot. Make sure you get silicone that is for gutters and flashing. What do you mean by joints? Seams? That is where you seamed in a section of gutter or mitre? You are prob going to have to remove all of the caulk youve applied. Push the silicone into the seam. If you get clear silicone you can also apply it to the outside of the seam. I dont really see in my head what your question is but I hope I helped. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panefully Clear 14 Report post Posted December 10, 2009 Mike: this is a metal gutter. I caulked the seams with "Micro OSI Gutter Premium Sealer." I still have half a tube left, but I'm not sure it will work. James: I can't take it off the brackets 'cause it's too long, 28'. By the time I got the resealed gutter back up, I would probably have bent it back out of whack. I wonder if I can take a picture and put it in here... You're right about the gutter needing to be wider, but I live in the Tri-Cities of WA state, and we don't have a lot of rain here. I mainly wanted the gutter to keep the condensation from the top of the house, off my deck, furniture and occasionally, me ;-)) You're right, a hard rain will make the water miss most of the gutter. Gutterdog: There are 3 metal pieces about 4 or 5 inches wide that go between the 10' lengths of gutter. Those are what I called the joints. I think I used clear silicone. Lowe's recommended it to me with the parts. I had a hard time keeping the nozzle aimed at the seams, because of the overhanging metal roof. How can you push the silicone into the seam? I have not put any sealant on the outside of the gutter (underneath). That may be my only option, unless I can find someone who knows what they are doing and have them seal it after I scrape off the sealer that is in there now. Thank all of you for your help! It was -2 degrees here last night, and it isn't looking good through next weekend, so I won't be doing anything for a while. No problem, as we don't have much condensation running off the roof in freezing weather, huh? LOL I thank you. vic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 14 Report post Posted December 11, 2009 Vic, Yes caulk needs a good ambient temp of about 40 degrees normally to bond, so wait for warmer temps. As for not being able to get the caulk where you want it, I have to say that you need to get inventive on this. True, a caulking gun may not get the product where it needs to go because it's bulky, but a pair of surgical gloves and a finger application might just get it done for you. Apply generously and clean up the excess before it sets up and you should be OK. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gutterdog 14 Report post Posted December 13, 2009 you working with home depot gutter....Yuk! Sorry. I know the seam things. The guage of the gutter is a thin .027. The coil it is made from is cheap. Very low gloss. 28 feet with those seamers would fall apart on you trying to take it down in one piece. Keep the tubes inside the house where its warm. Do the finger application of the silicone. after that zip screw the seamer to the gutter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panefully Clear 14 Report post Posted December 16, 2009 I'm not sure what that is so I did a search. I see a pic of a Malco zip screw. Question: If I can't get a drill in (when it warms up), can I put the screw in the bottom of the gutter? I see the purpose of the zipscrew. I just hope I don't cause it to strip the hole. Can't exactly correct with anchors ;-) I hope I can remove all the silicone that is in the way... I hope it peels. It's a balmy 34 degrees right now, ice is melting off the metal roof. Thanks again, Big Mike and Gutterdog! Vic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oxfordlawn 14 Report post Posted December 17, 2009 If you are putting the sealer on the inside of the gutters, heres a different thought...but along the same lines.... An auto body supply store will have whats called brushable seam sealer, I have used the stuff by 3M for fixing body seams on cars more than once. Its a thick gray paste that comes in a can and is applied with a small stiff 1/2" brush whichj they will have as well which is called an acid brush. It stays flexible and sticks real well to anything. Get a small can and try it out...I bet you will like it. To get under the overhanging roof, just put a big glob on your fingers and work in up in there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Panefully Clear 14 Report post Posted December 17, 2009 Thank you, Oxford! You folks are the best!! I'll try that when it gets warmer. I just saw some ice on the tin roof. It is melting a couple inches past the gutter on my deck. The gutter can't catch it when it's clear out there... Oh well, at least it's melting! Thanks again, Vic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oxfordlawn 14 Report post Posted December 23, 2009 3M? Brushable Seam Sealer, 08656, 1 Quart (US), 6 per case heres a link for the stuff I was speaking of...if the link attempt works LOL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henry Bockman 14 Report post Posted December 29, 2009 Mike (gutterdog) is right, the best product to use on sealing those gutter seams is OSI or some type of silicone caulk. Normally when you first install the gutters you would spread some OSI into the joints, top and bottom, that way when you put it all together you have double protection. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gutterdog 14 Report post Posted January 3, 2010 (edited) Mike (gutterdog) is right, the best product to use on sealing those gutter seams is OSI or some type of silicone caulk. Normally when you first install the gutters you would spread some OSI into the joints, top and bottom, that way when you put it all together you have double protection. Thanks Henry! Edited January 3, 2010 by gutterdog Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleanhoods 43 Report post Posted January 6, 2010 I dont know what they call this but i will discribe it the best i can.It is like a 3x3 angle they put on the edge of the metal roof it has a bunch of holes in it and i think they use that to slow the water flow down and also to help prevent a big slab of ice or snow hitting your head ,lol,it stretches on the entire drain sides of the roof.Also you use the clear silicone cause it breaths with the weather (stretches when hot and shrinks when cold)and the places you cant get to with the caulk gun buy a piece of tube from Lowes that will go over the end of the caulk tube tight and there you go good luck. Marko Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
