svp07 14 Report post Posted July 1, 2004 Can I use EFC-38 and Citralic on Redwood? If so any special precautions? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted July 2, 2004 You'l be fine. Just don't leave the citralic on. Make sure you rinse it. it will pull too much of the tannin out of the wood. Apply it to the deck when wet, at about 6 oz per gallon, then be sure to rinse it. Use EFC as normal. Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 svp07 14 Report post Posted July 2, 2004 Thanks Beth, Another question, what to do about bad green mildew on wood where EFC-38 has not worked. Some bleach or HD-80? I always keep the deck wet while/until I neutralize, will the citralic bring out the red in the redwood? The deck I am going to do is a friend of the family 25 yrs. and want it to come out nice. I think in the past he has used a lot of pressure on the wood, I saw some ridges when I looked at it. This is why I think he has gotten his deck so red. Will these cleanning procedures bring out that same red? Do you have a dwell time for the citralic? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Gavin 14 Report post Posted July 2, 2004 Most of the decks here in Colorado are Redwood. The only way to get that true Red color back is to sand, sand, sand. Here's a pic of a Redwood deck after it has been brightened and then dried (no sanding). As you can tell, it's not very red. Big lesson I learned was if you plan on sanding at all (especially the floor), make sure you blend away from the area being sanded or that Red that you are looking for will be the brightest spot on the deck. I'll also attatch a pic of the same deck after it was stained with a "redwood" color (still wet). It lightened up quite a bit after it dried completely. Gavin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 svp07 14 Report post Posted July 2, 2004 Gavin, Do you have a name on that stain? Is it also a sealer? That is a nice red color. Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Gavin 14 Report post Posted July 3, 2004 That was TWP's Redwood 102 and yes it is a sealer. Personally, I like the color of the Superdeck Red Cedar better. It has reds and golds in it. My customers really seem to like it also. Here's a pic of that color on a deck I did recently. I'm still in the learning phase of what brand colors I like and don't like. Gavin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 625 Report post Posted July 3, 2004 Beth what do you mean it will pull the tannin's out of the wood ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 JFife 14 Report post Posted July 3, 2004 THe prettiest stain I've ever put on a redwood deck was Readyseal Lgt. Brown for Redwood only. All the ease of RS, on a beautiful redwood deck. they will felt badly, so buffing may be necessary. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted July 4, 2004 Gavin Is that 2nd. deck wet or dry? This is the redwood color i use mostly on cedar fences like this one fence is about 2 yrs. old. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted July 4, 2004 The tannin gives the wood its color. Too much brightening will lighten the color. It draws the tannin out of the wood. Does the same thing with CCA in PT pine for example. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Gavin 14 Report post Posted July 4, 2004 GavinIs that 2nd. deck wet or dry? This is the redwood color i use mostly on cedar fences like this one fence is about 2 yrs. old. It's about 90% dry. That picture was taken after a 2nd coat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 svp07 14 Report post Posted July 6, 2004 Washed that Redwood deck today. Went through some dramatic color changes. I will try to up load pics now.... Should be the start, during, and end (still drying). Owner, a family frined, will seal with Cabot's Clear Pacific Redwood; will try to get final pics later. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted July 6, 2004 Looks good Steve can't wait to see it when it's done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 svp07 14 Report post Posted July 7, 2004 About procedures: I used pump up to appy EFC and Citralic; that takes a lot of time. Washed with my M-5...puts out 500 psi and I thought worked perfect. Anyone else wash with the M-5? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 625 Report post Posted July 7, 2004 If your going to be doing a lot of redwood. Look into using a penitrating oil s like Ready Seals Redwood only or TWP . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Firedkm 14 Report post Posted July 7, 2004 About procedures:I used pump up to appy EFC and Citralic; that takes a lot of time. Washed with my M-5...puts out 500 psi and I thought worked perfect. Anyone else wash with the M-5? Steve, Are talking about the M-5 xjet? If you are you really are better off using a regular fan tip for the cleaning. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 svp07 14 Report post Posted July 7, 2004 my #10 nozzle still leaves me at over 1000 psi; need to get #11 I guess. I tried the M-5 xjet and the cleaning went pretty fast; to rinse it was great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Firedkm 14 Report post Posted July 7, 2004 Steve, What gpm is your machine? Also where is you gauge mounted? When your trying ti figure out the pressure at the tip you should have your gauge as close to the end as possible. I have one I put on my gun and you will get a better reading that way. You will loose alot of pressure in your hose due to friction loss. I start out with a 4013 tip ( about 400-500 for my machine) and usually dont go any higher than a 4010 for the railings. On the deck floor I use an 8010 tip. Thats great because of the area it covers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Can I use EFC-38 and Citralic on Redwood? If so any special precautions?
Thanks.
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