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duramax

nozzles for house wash

Question

I have a 1540 and a 0040 that I use for downstreaming with a 4gpm washer. I use M5 x-jet to rinse but it seems maybe alittle high on pressure for a good rinse? What size nozzle do you all rinse with? Also could I use a 30 orfice to downstream with or would it be too little? Thanks alot!!

Schneider Pro Wash

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I am just passing this great information along to you and you will never look back. I also have the newer x-jet but no almosr never use it anymore. Call Bob at Pressure Tek and tell him you want the 4 nozzle holder setup and 4 nozzles for washing houses. He will ask you about your washer specs. and set you up with this nozzle holder. What it is is 4 quick connects welded together in a row, then they put in 4 nozzles---2 are for soaping high and low areas, and the other 2 are for rinsing...again high and low areas. All you do is move the holder in the quick connect at the end of your gun...I hardly ever use a wand anymore. I didn't mention but this is assuming you have a downstreamer setup. I promise you will love it and save sooooo much time...and it is all for under $30.

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I have a 1540 and a 0040 that I use for downstreaming with a 4gpm washer. I use M5 x-jet to rinse but it seems maybe alittle high on pressure for a good rinse? What size nozzle do you all rinse with? Also could I use a 30 orfice to downstream with or would it be too little? Thanks alot!!

Schneider Pro Wash

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Welcome to TGS.

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I can honestly say no...mine sit in the quick connect of my gun and wands nice and snugly. I can turn them when not in use but they stay where they are put. I would think if the time comes and it start to move and twist...a simple o-ring replacement in the quick connect would be the fix.

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Thanks for the info, I was thinking about getting the X-jet as well but now I will go the cheaper route first.

Please go to your "my profile" and complete your signature line. It's the house rules.

Welcome to TGS.

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Thanks for the info, I was thinking about getting the X-jet as well but now I will go the cheaper route first.

As long as you have a downstreaming setup, this in my opinion is the way to go. the x-jet is a good unit...it just sucked moving the pail around and I used alot more chemical with the x-jet.

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Try a few different nozzles, they're cheap.

I often rinse with (at 5.5 gpm) a 1515 or 2520, or for very high gutters the 0040. If the surface can take the pressure I might use a 4010. Insect screens usually get the 2540.

Cheers

J

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A 1/4" hose barb screwed into a 1/4" quick connect with female threads will draw well and give you height. There are a number of air chucks that can be used as well that will allow you to vary distance, draw and pressure. The most important item would be a downstream injector that is built to withstand harsh chems. It is possible to purchase a ceramic ball to replace the standard steel ball and the spring will eventually fail. So, either keep a rebuild kit or carry a spare downstreamer. I like the idea of having a downstreamer "clip", but wonder about the weight on the end of a lance, though a 1/4" quick connect on the gun, as well as a quick connect lance (foundations, decks, edging drives/walks and rinsing) would work. Hmmm, I'm due for some more Simple Cherry, so I might just have Bob put a "clip" in my box. Since I started 10 years ago, I have always looked for ways to work smarter and faster since time is money.

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thanks for the replies! I will probably try a 0015 and a 1512 for rinsing. The m-jet does work pretty good but the pattern is not always as good as a real nozzle.

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I, like others, have my own favorites for various tasks. As with all of my applications, I use a whip hose with a swivel and ball valve. I use a 12" wand with a twist type nozzle holder that allows me to screw in two different nozzles. One side is a 1/4" hose barb used for high chemical applications and the other is a standard hi-lo nozzle that you "push" for chemical and "pull" for pressure that also varies in fan width from 0 - 40. Also, by pushing the nozzle to fill the line with chemical, then releasing the trigger and pulling the nozzle back and rotating the fan to 0 degrees, I can easily hit 3 story homes. What makes this better than the other set-ups is I do not have to physically connect or disconnect nozzles. It's just a simple flip and/or push/pull. The costs for this wand set-up is very inexpensive. The gun, wand, nozzle holder, 1/4"hose barb and hi-lo nozzle can be purchased for under $75.

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As with all of my applications, I use a whip hose with a swivel and ball valve.

Jud, what exactly are you accomplishing with that whip setup? I've always been under the assumption that the reason for the whip line is to reduce stress on the gun inlet and reduce operator fatigue. Your setup with the ball valve at the gun handle with QC's, defeats the purpose for the whip line. Whip line should be directly mounted to the gun (not with QC's), and the ball valve should be at the other end of the whip line. Try it out, and I bet you'll switch your setup.

As for tip holders etc., we now use the 4 nozzle holders from PT. Tried all the rest, including X-Jets, and this is the best setup so far for us. The twist holders are OK, but I always found myself switching tips anyway. I do use the twist holder for deck work, where I know I'll only use two distinct tips.

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Big Mike,

I appreciate the comments. That's what is great about this forum. Do you have a swivel on your whip hose?

My Whip set-up also allows the high pressure hose to stay untangled especially if you are working around stationary objects. In other words, my hose never gets tangled or kinked because it rotates at the swivel. My swivel is at the end of my two foot whip hose which is also quick connected. I have tried several methods and I like having the ball valve at the gun because I velcro my gun in the open position and I can easily turn the pressure off/on with it. Both of my trailers are set-up with high a minimum of 100' high pressure hoses, whip hoses w/swivels, and a ball valves. I actually quick connect just about everything and I couldn't tell you the last time I changed a quick connect. I bet I didn't buy 5 quick connects all of 2009. I usually run 40-60 hours/week year round.

Part of the reason I believe mine last longer than most is I don't pull them through dirt, grass, etc... when I wind them up on the hose reel I keep the quick connect end at the hose reel as I am winding the hose up. I also rinse it out by dipping it into my water tank and manually maneuvering the quick connect a couple of times. Of course, my set-up is probably backwards than most as far as quick connects go. When I first got started, I had a few guns and stuff stolen. When I replaced it, I decided to set mine up opposite that way the crook would at least have to do a little work to use it. Then I decided to just stay with my enclosed trailer when out of town or leaving it overnight.

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Hey Jud,

You said you velcro your gun to the open postion.

I have been using a tennis ball when fatigue kicks in.

Have you tried that way? Is velcro better?

Just curious.

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Adrian,

I have seen a few people use a tennis ball but I have never tried one. I guess because it took me about one day to realize I wasn't going to hold that trigger all day, every day and I had a velcro strip in my truck and I liked the way it worked. That was even before I learned about ball valves. I guess I never tried anything else because the velcro works perfectly. I simply wrap it around the top of the trigger while it is in the closed position. Then just slide it down pulling the trigger to the open position. Push the velcro back up to close the trigger releasing the pressure. I dont have to keep up with a tennis ball or anything else. The velcro stays on my gun at all times. I do have to replace it every 2-4 months.

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Adrian,

I have seen a few people use a tennis ball but I have never tried one. I guess because it took me about one day to realize I wasn't going to hold that trigger all day, every day and I had a velcro strip in my truck and I liked the way it worked. That was even before I learned about ball valves. I guess I never tried anything else because the velcro works perfectly. I simply wrap it around the top of the trigger while it is in the closed position. Then just slide it down pulling the trigger to the open position. Push the velcro back up to close the trigger releasing the pressure. I dont have to keep up with a tennis ball or anything else. The velcro stays on my gun at all times. I do have to replace it every 2-4 months.

You might want to try an open gun, then.

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Thad,

You are absolutely right. Just never have changed. Sometimes it takes someone reminding you not to be stupid. Of course, I do have several part time helpers and will probably stay the velcro set-ups for them.

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Big Mike,

As I was working last night, I thought about your comments regarding the whip hose and ball valve. I evaluated your thoughts and even moved my ball valve to the other end of the whip hose next to the swivel. I found it to be a little awkward but probably could live with it if it were not for ball valve hitting my knees especially at 180 degrees. I switched it back. My reasoning is 90% of my work utilizes three different guns. The set-up pictured above, a gun quick connected for an 8’, 4’ and 1’ wand, and a surface cleaner. If I’m reading your post correctly, I would have three whip hoses with ball valves attached to each apparatus (not quick connected). I also assume you use swivels. To me, that sounds like a lot of trouble. Just storing the guns and surface cleaner with two foot hoses and ball valves dangling would be awkward. Not to mention that when a part did wear out I would have to shut down and use tools to replace it.

I usually only keep one spare part for each set-up besides the one I’m using. Basically, I use a whip hose, swivel, and ball valve on everything and when one piece breaks or wears out, I just replace that piece. I just disconnect, then reconnect and go. No tools required.

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