is this a good machine to build my fist trailer?

[CentraFlo 14]

hey guys..

what do you think about this for being the first machine to use on a trailer.. going to be my first trailer.. i would like to get into hot water equipment if i can find something in a decent price range..

if you have any other suggestions as far as models or anything for that matter that pertains to bulding a trailer, please let me know

here is the one i saw online

Amazon.com: - NorthStar Gas-Powered Hot Water Pressure Washer with Honda Engine - 4000 PSI, 4 GPM, Skid Style: Patio, Lawn & Garden

also... as of right now i have a 13hp 3750psi 4gpm honda that i was going to use.. any thoughts on that?

thanks guys

[Russ Spence 76]

No! It is a direct drive, if you plan on do extended hour work and want it to last you need a belt drive or gear drive.

The pump will not hold up as long since being a direct drive it has to run at the sam rpm as the motor, if it is a gear drive or belt it will run cooler and longer because the pump will only run at about half the rpm's

Do not wast your money.

Also 500 pounds? There is not much to the coil if that whole machine only weighs that much, Alkotas and Hydroteks as well as Landas weigh around 800 to 900 pounds with similar specs but their coils are rock solid!

My oponion, if you plan on being in the business to stay in business you need to buy what will last.

[Jim Gamble 20]

Though the Cat pump listed is designed to handle 3400 RPM's, which is what most engines run at, ( 3450 RPMS for the bigger ones ) there is one point that Russ makes in his thread, though maybe unclear.

When a choice of a pump or any mechanical item has a higher RPM VS a Lower RPM....The lower one is preferred. Reason is less revolutions means less wear.

Another thought when buying a pump is to see about the shaft. Some pumps are 24 mil. thick, while others are 30 mil and I thought I have seen them as thick as 35 mil. This is a good indication on the manufactures design for longevity. Our pumps are 30 mil thick. We have had our pumps last for over 15 years without a rebuild, however my sub has to rebuild his every couple of years until he replaces it. His pumps very from manufactures, but the one thing that is constant is the 24 mil shaft.

http://www.pressurewashersdirect.com/manuals/catpump66dxmanual.pdf

[Russ Spence 76]

Thanks Jim, I didnt know that. Intresting point too I am going to look into doing some comparions on our stuff, since you brought that up it raises some vey intresting questions about our equipment.

We have some machines with AR pumps and they seem to last forever without rebuilding, then the Generals are having to be rebuilt every year or so.

We just ordered two new Hydroteks with 27 horse Kohlers and AR pumps for that very reason.

[Jerry 24]

Another reason NOT to buy a NorthStar..

their coils are TINY, and inefficient.

and about the pumps..

for Tank-Feed.. stick with pumps that have 3/4" INLETS..

they are easier to feed with water, making seals last longer.

If you can't afford the combination you need for "Long-Term-Low-Cost"..

buy a (beefy) pump system, then when you can afford it, add a (beefy) heater, etc.

ALWAYS buy for Long-Term-Low-Cost,

or your competition will get your contract customers anyway.

..plan for NO downtime, and a bad day doesn't go into bad weeks. Eh?

[CentraFlo 14]

God this forum has been so great.. Thabk ypu so much for the help on this guys... Later on im going to probably make a build thread and let ypu guys know what im working with.. Thabk you so much for the tips and info on this.. Hope i can correspond in some way one day!

Next big question is good chem/mix and lay before or after wAsh.. But ill save that for the chem section.. Thabks again guys!!