Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted October 10, 2010 Nicely done!!! Beth :cup: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigchaz 157 Report post Posted October 10, 2010 Deck looks amazing! Just my opinion but I would stay away from a clear oil at the very least so you don't end up highlighting any of the residual red in the nail holes or cracks. Something with some pigment will give you longer life and a more even finish. But honestly it could go either way since you've done so well in removing the old stain so long as the cracks don't bother you too much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Celeste 341 Report post Posted October 10, 2010 Wow :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
celtwheel 14 Report post Posted October 13, 2010 apom, your effort, and result, is excellent - isn't it wonderful to see that bare wood? RE: stain selection I'm a complete novice compared to the regular posters on these forums, but, most folks seem to prefer a quality oil-based semi-transparent finish. Check out some TGS gallery, &/or business website photos, from regulars like "Beth n Rod", "bigchaz", etc. for end results. Since you went to all that trouble to expose the bare wood, a semi-transparent finish will let the underlying wood show, while still giving good UV protection. If interested, I just posted some B&A photos "Wood Tux Amaretto on PT Pine" (FORUM: Shop Talk > Projects, etc.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
apom 14 Report post Posted October 15, 2010 (edited) Hey guys I'm almost at the stain step. I installed all the balusters and power washed the deck on a low setting on Wednesday. I just used plain water, nothing else. There are a few dark patches on the deck. You can see them picture 5. I don't know if this is mold or from to much sun? Anyways sanding did not get rid of it. How do I proceed? Can I put a bit of oxiclean on the spots and then rinse it off? Or do I need a deck cleaner or brightner? So far the only locally available products are Thompsons deck clean and brightner and 'eco wash' products made by concrobium. It's to late in the season for me to order stuff over the internet. Edited October 15, 2010 by apom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
apom 14 Report post Posted October 18, 2010 Finally finished it yesterday!! I can't believe how much work it was to strip a solid. Well worth the effort though. The deck looks so much better. Thanks everyone for the help. For the stain I went with Cabot ATO 3400 formula in amberwood. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
celtwheel 14 Report post Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) Bet you're glad it's done...just in time... Edited October 19, 2010 by celtwheel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jcleaner 14 Report post Posted January 20, 2011 celtwheel I like the idea of using Extreme Solutions HD-80. Easy is the way I like to get my projects finished. This deck did sound like one awful project. Thanks again for the information. I will remember to use the HD-80 on my next big stripping project. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drush 14 Report post Posted March 24, 2011 My first strip job..!! 5 years back on a big L-shaped deck with 4 layers of solid & then white paint... HO did agree to replace a few railings that were rotten though... HD-80 & 2 strips, then sealed with Wood Tux Warm Honey Gold... I live by HD-80 & a gallon of low-tox for tough jobs. Dwell time & keeping it wet IS KEY. That homeowner should have called a pro for his strip job. Wonder what his opportunity cost would have been shortly after he started..? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites