WoodTux Alternatives

[sturgisjr 14]

For next year, I will be better prepared and get bigger orders of woodtux so that I always have something available for a job. This was my first year and it has been a struggle trying to get woodtux, especially in Warm Honey Gold.

The alternative that I will offer is Cabots. Can anyone tell me which Cabots will very well be close to the Woodtux colors. I have a couple of decks to do but do not know when I can have the woodtux and I don't want to make my customers wait.

Thanks

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

In the Australian Timber Oil, it would be the Amberwood. I don't know if that color is available in their other products or not.

Hope this is helpful.

Beth

[staudend 14]

Cabot semi transparent stains? I have used new redwood cabot semitransparent, and it looks nothing like wood tux. It is not rich in color and is nearly solid. It is a long lasting product though.

[sturgisjr 14]

I went and got a sample done on my board with the amberwood Australian Timber Oil and is a VERY excellent match in color with the Wood Tux Warm Honey Gold.

This is more expensive and I wanted to know how durable it is compared to Wood Tux.

What woodtux's product guarantee? 3 to 4 years? How does it compare to the Australian Timber Oil? I have customers asking if I have a guarantee and I just tell them 3 to 4 years on the product. But the question I am not sure to answer is...how long is my work guaranteed? I'm thinking it would be the same as the product guarantee?

I read on the Timber Oil can that you should reseal every 1 or 2 years.

I am trying to figure out how to set up my maintenence program and would appreciate anyone helping me. When should a reseal, cleaning, and redo be done? Remember, I use Woodtux, Cabots (when needed), HD-80, EFC-38 and Citrallic.

Thank you very much.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

The Cabot Aussie Oil is formulated for hardwood. My inclination would be to say that:

1. you will get less coverage on PT, cedar or redwood with it

2. but it will last longer since it can penetrate the substrate better.

Ev, I know you have used Aussie on softer woods like cedar, can you share your expereince with us?

Beth

[Everett Abrams 501]

The Timber Oil is made for hardwoods but it is exactly what is recommended for softwoods, that is a penetrating oil. Cabot has tested this but, to sell it and market it as better than their 3000 series would be eliminating the whole line. All I will say is test for yourself next to other types of products and see the results for yourself. You will not need to do yearly maintenance coats if correctly applied. Their tests have shown that the Timber Oil does last longer and outperform the 3000 series. You will not find that documented anywhere, this was relayed to me in conversation only.

In regards to guarantess, you have no right to change or deter from a manufacturers guarantee. Basically, your guarantee should explain that your policies and procedures are performed correctly to insure that the manufacturers guarantee should hold up. "Should" meaning that you are not responsible for product failure or a bad batch of product. Your policies and procedures are accepted as the correct procedures to insure proper longevity of the manufacturer's product. I see many contractor's offering guarantees that do not coincide with the product they are using. This is a great way to get in trouble somewhere down the road.

I would also add that when referring to how long a product will last you should refer to horizontal and vertical surfaces. "3 to 4 years" is very vague and means what? I would say more like this, " about 2 years on horizontals and 4 years on verticals." That is clear and easier for a customer to understand as well.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Agreed, agreed, agreed, agreed, and agreed. You nailed it Everett!

Beth

[James 625]

Remember These products are drying oils . That means they penitrate only enough so they form a film. On cedar you have to remove the fish to do maint. On hard woods you might get away with a couple of applcations before yopu have to strrip the finish off. If you use a penitrating oil Like Ready seal you never have to strip and the wood is easier to maint. and it gets better looking as the wood ages.

[Everett Abrams 501]

The Timber Oil DOES NOT form a film.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Everett is correct. (unless you over apply it in which case it is an application issue)

But the resin system is CRITICAL. Why? Well, oil is great for wood, we all agree there.

Also the longer the oil the better it will dive into the wood, thus, all product made for hardwoods such as ipe have VERY long oils so as to penetrate. Having said that you can also say that on softer woods you will get less coverage, but better penetration since these are very long oils. The resin which dives into the wood and bonds withthe fibers is protecting the wood from the elements effects of cracking and so forth in a way that the oil without a good resin system can't. Case in point, trees have a sap that runs through them - resin. These trees are cut and they can no longer product one of thier natural protectors. Thus, one of several key elements in a good wood preserving prodict must be a resin that will dive with the oils to help strengthen the wood fibers. These fibers are subjected to alot of things by homeowners, contractors, and the weather.

I'll stop here for a while....time for coffee.....

I agree with Everett.

Beth :groovy3:

[James 625]

What do you call it then ? I just stripped something off a deck that laid on top of the wood ? Maybe it was a coating or a hard shell ?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

That is a symptom of over application. This will happen with other products too, but the results are not the same if appied correctly. We have applied the Aussie, SRD, Menwood, Tux, and others correctly but have also seen the films that form from over application. You have to know when enough is enough and what sheen to look for.

Beth

[James 625]

These products do form a thin coat or a barrier. They clogg the wood pores. Thats because they are made up with drying oils. Linseed - Tung...

I have never seen a good job on cedar with these products. Its always over applied. Because the wood was to new. If the wood as 2 years old I could see it work.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I have also seen what you are referring to, but only on hardwoods like teak and ipe and so forth.

Cedar is a soft wood. If you give it a light wash, you'll open up the wood cells. True they will open more over time with age, but that's not the point. Protection should be immediate even if the wood is not absorbing as much product, so as to slow down the weathering process.

Beth :groovy: