Two-Tone question

[Tonyg 14]

Working on a quote for sizable deck. This may potentially be a two-tone finish with white trim, railings, accents, etc. All the others I've done had the deck boards on top of the fascia/riser boards but this one is trimed out with the 2x8.

The question is should the top of the riser be painted with the board or stopped with just the vertical surface. Would it wear badly or look goofy?

[bigchaz 157]

given that the gap between the two isn't the tightest its probably ever been, I would lean toward doing the tops white. Although I've done it both ways....I'm going to dig up some pictures and check

[Tonyg 14]

That would be great Charlie! A picture always helps with expectations so they don't hate it when done.

The boards would be removed and debris cleaned out to tighten them which should minimize the gaps.

[bigchaz 157]

Eh wish I had a better picture Tony...this is all I could find. This one we did the top of the board stained and the facing in white. I always do the white first so I can sand the top for a cleaner edge. I think it works OK on newer wood because the edge is still pretty crisp and hasnt worn away. Once it starts getting rounded and chipped its hard to get a clean line. You can see on the very top of this staircase and on the second turn as well as around the landing where the trim board is.

[Doug Black 18]

I think it would look better all the same color and then going white on the rails and attached and column posts or something to that effect.

edit: Yes, like Charlie said above. I was thinking you were going to trim the 2X8 if front of the deck boards? That's what I think might look tacky no matter how you did it...

Here's a painted deck:

Edited February 17, 2011 by Doug Black

[Tonyg 14]

Charlie, I like the way the semi looks on to pf your pic. I hadn't even thought about the corner being worn down or chipped making the line look bad. Thanks.

Doug, is that 3 colors with the 2x12 in a darker gray?

[Celeste 341]

I would NOT do the front boards in the solid.....you will get noticeable wear on the top edge of that board because of the way it was constructed. Deck, risers stained, rails can contrast. You could two tone the rails as well....

Sorry for the watermarked pic.......if you need one without the embellishment for an example for your customer, let me know :)

[Tonyg 14]

Thanks Celeste, I think I'll probably not recommend using a solid on the fronts. I didn't pay too much attention to the edges while there and didn't get any closer pics.

The way this deck is contrcted I'm just trying to see where the accents could be and still have the two-tone look good. Although, when they see the difference in the estimate to go two-tone that may solve the problem altogether.

[Doug Black 18]

Charlie, I like the way the semi looks on to pf your pic. I hadn't even thought about the corner being worn down or chipped making the line look bad. Thanks.

Doug, is that 3 colors with the 2x12 in a darker gray?

Tony,

You have a good eye! The first coat was actually in a lighter color, then the decision was made to match the siding which was darker, and that picture was taken after one coating just the sides with the darker...

[Tonyg 14]

Tony,

You have a good eye! The first coat was actually in a lighter color, then the decision was made to match the siding which was darker, and that picture was taken after one coating just the sides with the darker...

Can't help it - I'm a painter (Beth, we need a painter smiley, although that could be a bad thing as well)

I did a deck last year with a light grey, dark grey, and cream color. I really like the idea and appearance and it made it more custom.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

How did I miss this thread? Here's a large one we did last summer....

Beth :cup:

[Tonyg 14]

Beth, I remembered that deck you posted last year and was actually going to send them a pic of the Woodland Brown. I received a favorable response from them for the estimate, though not a done deal, but they said they are leaning toward the two-tone. I am thinking of maybe making some samples of the Mountain Cedar and the Nantucket White if I can close the sale. Still not sure how I like the WB.

Does anyone have and pictures of the Mountain Cedar in a two-tone?

[bigchaz 157]

Beth do yall caulk your 4x4s and around all the spindles on your two tone jobs?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Beth do yall caulk your 4x4s and around all the spindles on your two tone jobs?

Ummmmm....never.

Beth

[Tonyg 14]

Beth do yall caulk your 4x4s and around all the spindles on your two tone jobs?

To me 'painting' and 'staining' are two different animals. When painting an item the caulk is standard procedure. Staining does not get caulked. I know to most there is no diffrence but applying a solid stain is staining :)

[bigchaz 157]

Yea I figured so just was surprised how tight the joints looked on beth's job. No cracking either

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

That job was stained, not painted. We avoid paint on decks at all costs....we have seen too many decks rotting away....

Have never caulked a deck, but have seen where others have tried, and between that and the wood putty to fill the cracks (cringe) on the floor, well, you can imagine.

Thanks for the kudos on that job. :)

Beth

[Chappy 138]

Beth,

What do you use on the white solid. Also how long on new wood do I need to wait for the solid color. (My wife said "i have to wait a year? you didn't tell me that!!!!!") I ask because Ive never done a two tone and she likes the look.

any way, the old rails were caulked and painted...and rotted top and bottom

.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

So long as the WMC is down around 12%, you are good. You do not need to wait a year. (put that in the myth category) We like the Cabot's solid decking stain. Two most popular whites are White, and Nantucket White. Some folks like to try to match it to beige siding. I think we did one with Glacier too.

* NO paint

* NO caulk

You'll be good to go.

Beth :banana:

[bigchaz 157]

Beth, are you using the ProVT solid or the oil based one? I used to use the Cabot ProVT for whites but it was doing really poor with mildew. No one sells the oil base cabot problem solver primer and solid color around here anymore and I don't enough jobs to stock it so the last few we've done were with Sherwin Williams Solid Color decking stain. The tint base is just a straight white or we do the navajo white for a more muted look. Pretty nice look

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Beth,

Also how long on new wood do I need to wait for the solid color. (My wife said "i have to wait a year? you didn't tell me that!!!!!") I ask because Ive never done a two tone and she likes the look.

any way, the old rails were caulked and painted...and rotted top and bottom

.

[Rod posting]

A.W.P.A. (American Wood Preservers Association) recommends that any wood that has been pressure treated or kiln dried (includes cedar and redwood) be sealed within 2 weeks of installation.

The old adage of waiting for 6 months to a year was for wood to become seasoned. That was made obsolete once pressure treatment and kiln drying were instituted to help with the dimensional stability and rot, fungus and product loss as a result.

We have seen many of the same issues with painted rail systems in our area that have rotted within 5 years.

The problem is paint. Most are not permeable to moisture vapor, so it locks it in the wood along with any other microbes that become fungus creating the perfect environment for rot to set in.

Solid stain is permeable. It allows moisture vapor to escape and avoids the problem.

The rails we have seen with this problem are the pre-primed versions, usually installed on newly or recently constructed decks.

Rod!~

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Beth, are you using the ProVT solid or the oil based one? I used to use the Cabot ProVT for whites but it was doing really poor with mildew. No one sells the oil base cabot problem solver primer and solid color around here anymore and I don't enough jobs to stock it so the last few we've done were with Sherwin Williams Solid Color decking stain. The tint base is just a straight white or we do the navajo white for a more muted look. Pretty nice look

ProVT. We can still get the problem solver primer up here. One is acrylic, one is latex.

We have also used the Sherwin Williams product with success.

Beth

[Chappy 138]

thanks, I have used the pro vt on around the outside trim, old wood only. Ill give it a try on the new.

[Doug Black 18]

[Rod posting]

A.W.P.A. (American Wood Preservers Association) recommends that any wood that has been pressure treated or kiln dried (includes cedar and redwood) be sealed within 2 weeks of installation.

The old adage of waiting for 6 months to a year was for wood to become seasoned. That was made obsolete once pressure treatment and kiln drying were instituted to help with the dimensional stability and rot, fungus and product loss as a result.

.

Rod!~

Are they saying build deck, pressure treatment, then seal or are they saying build deck and then seal?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Build. Clean. Seal.

Beth

[Tonyg 14]

Woohoo, ink is on the paper and I thank God for the work. Turns out it is going two-toned anyway with AC Sequoia and White. Still not exactly sure where the accents are going to be with the white - the wife and husband disagreed on exactly what was to be stained what so I told them we had a couple months to decide. He wants the balusters stained solid white and the rails and posts stained semi - she disagrees. He wants the kick board on the steps stained solid - she disagrees. Dunno.

Celeste, I am going to send them your pick with the railings. Do you have anymore from this deck? This is as close to the color scheme I could give them as an example for just doing the balusters.

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