Deck Help - 20 yr old pressure treated deck

[gary11 14]

ok, here it goes..I have been reading this forum for 2 years plus now for advice and tips,best stains etc. as I have worked on friends/families decks. So thanks to all for that without you knowing....

So now on to my deck. I recently moved into a house that has a 18-20yr old 720sq foot PT treated deck w/pergola. The deck was not maintained at all ( splintered badly,checking,cups etc.)and I have been looking at all options to fix it up to get a few more years out of it- and not lay out that cash yet. So long story short, I decided to pull all the nails ( fun fun : ) ,flip the boards, and screw back down with coated screws. On to my question, once I complete screwing down the boards what should my next steps be to completion? Originally, I was going to sand the whole deck to try and remove the joist striping, pt stamping etc. then wash and use a brightener to open up the wood for staining again... but after speaking with the different folks in the stain business some have said "do not sand" (because u will get uneven stain results) just use bleach,water ( 25/75 bleach to water) and dawn first and try to get boards ready for staining ..some others say just sand and use a brightener or a light pressure wash only....let dry for a few days and stain. So I'm confused now on the best route is... Also, I plan on using Armstrong Clark or Readyseal to finish the job - 8-10 gallons..... 1. Any help on what my next steps should be from the pros on here would be greatly appreciated! Thanks... the deck is exposed to full sun, and 2. AC or Readyseal semi on this age/condition of deck?

Thanks in advance, GH

[Adrian 155]

Your latter explanation is the way to approach this.

Flipping saved you a ton of money. Now just prep the wood as you have read here. Stain it a few days later.

Done.

You got the idea.

[bigchaz 157]

Apply cleaner (percarb), let soak, wash off, brighten wood, let dry, sand, stain

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[gary11 14]

Apply cleaner (percarb), let soak, wash off, brighten wood, let dry, sand, stain

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Thanks. After sanding - use brightener again to open up wood for accepting stain?? or just another light pressure wash to clean off dust etc. Many thanks on the responses.

[Tonyg 14]

Thanks. After sanding - use brightener again to open up wood for accepting stain?? or just another light pressure wash to clean off dust etc. Many thanks on the responses.

Depending on how much it is sanded. Ideally I would like to wet down the down after sanding but most of the time, unless circumstances make it necessary, the cost to sand and come back on a separate day after drying to stain would be prohibitive. If this is your deck, and you have the time, by all means wet it down after sanding but otherwise the majority of the time I don't believe it is that critical.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

ok, here it goes..I have been reading this forum for 2 years plus now for advice and tips,best stains etc. as I have worked on friends/families decks. So thanks to all for that without you knowing....

So now on to my deck. I recently moved into a house that has a 18-20yr old 720sq foot PT treated deck w/pergola. The deck was not maintained at all ( splintered badly,checking,cups etc.)and I have been looking at all options to fix it up to get a few more years out of it- and not lay out that cash yet. So long story short, I decided to pull all the nails ( fun fun : ) ,flip the boards, and screw back down with coated screws. On to my question, once I complete screwing down the boards what should my next steps be to completion? Originally, I was going to sand the whole deck to try and remove the joist striping, pt stamping etc. then wash and use a brightener to open up the wood for staining again... but after speaking with the different folks in the stain business some have said "do not sand" (because u will get uneven stain results) just use bleach,water ( 25/75 bleach to water) and dawn first and try to get boards ready for staining ..some others say just sand and use a brightener or a light pressure wash only....let dry for a few days and stain. So I'm confused now on the best route is... Also, I plan on using Armstrong Clark or Readyseal to finish the job - 8-10 gallons..... 1. Any help on what my next steps should be from the pros on here would be greatly appreciated! Thanks... the deck is exposed to full sun, and 2. AC or Readyseal semi on this age/condition of deck?

Thanks in advance, GH

1st question: size of the decking...5/4x___, or 2x___?

have you already flipped the boards? If not and they are 2x material, rent a planer. Run your boards through it as this will help with the cupping and make them go down better.

If you flip the boards, the problems is you may be changing the orientation a decent deck builder would decide when laying them.

You want to lay the crown upwards, otherwise the wood will cup worse. This can be determined by looking at the end grain noting the rings direction as they form an arch, and lay them with arch pointing up.

If there is a center core then either way is good.

Pulling nails is the worst you can do. Sacrifice one board but pop the rest with a mallet from underneath once you can reach under to swing it.

Then, you can tap the nails out without damaging the boards.

Sanding is something that only the best in the field understand what works and what will not.

Splotchy results means the sanding didn't get past the weathered and damaged part of the surface.

But! sometimes the damage goes too deep as in the case of planter rings, bbq spills and candle wax. Replace the boards affected by the latter 2 as this condition will continue through the wood until it reaches the other side but somewhere down the length of the wood and is hard to determine where exactly.

If you are going to sand, You must go beyond just getting the surface level and smooth. It will not eliminate the cracks in the wood.

This is where you actually have to get down and personal with it. Make sure you are seeing wood and nothing else which discolors the wood.

The wash process any of the previous posters mentioned can be applied according to the conditions you have present on your deck.

I know it sounds like a lot of work but it is if you are going to do it, might as well make it last right?

Rod!~

[gary11 14]

Rod,

Thanks for your detailed response. I'm working with 2 x 6's, all nails have been pulled ( I used a cat claw, mostly the flat claw end which created less damage- thankfully most nails werent recessed into the boards and were sitting on top).

All boards are now flipped. The tops "look" to be in good shape, a few boards have the green color stained on them still, and of course the joist stripes are noticeable. I fully understand the cupping process having built a deck before from scratch about 10 yrs ago, but most of the boards I flipped have been laying pretty flat (for now), albeit I do have a couple that have the cupping issue--> but Ive been switching with other boards to locations closer to the house where less traffic occurs, and if need be I will replace a couple. Not sure whats happens with this cupping over time from this point forward though, and also not sure what happens when/if I sand those boards lessening the cup?The nails were put in every 16 inches throughout the entire deck, so Im just starting getting screws back in same location and countersking them, the ends are defintely a little tricky because I want to make sure the board is pulling tight,not splitting etc. so need to go in at a slight angle there and sometimes near the prior hole. I'm using 3.5 inch deckmate screws, just got off to a start today with the first few boards along the house to ensure they measure out to the exact measurement at all points along the deck ( deck is 40 feet long).

Thanks on the note about sanding. After I screw down, I was going to use a sodium percarb (or hydroxide) thoughts? No mold/mildew issue here as i am in full sun and deck off groud by 4 feet at lowest spot.

Then followed by a deck brightener. >>>>

Then determine what sanding would need to be done. If I need to sand, I was going to use a square buff sander but havent explored all my options, I want no/ or minimal swirls. >>> then I was going to do a light pressurewash - not a gauge job : ) ,to get surface ready for stain again ( Ive learned alot about this from this site). Then go AC or Readyseal. I currently have both of those brand samples ready to go- when I get there : ) Also, Im going to replace my top rails around the deck with either cedar or trex/composite depending on costs.

I appreciate the feedback and def value everyone's pointers here,I'll post some pics of before , after, current etc. as soon as I can.

GH

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

We use Armstrong Clark. Tried the other years ago, didn't care for it. AC is a better lasting product in my opinion.

Consider Ipe for the rail caps....

Beth

[gary11 14]

Thanks. We are leaning towards Armstrong Clark .I showed my wife pictures of the various AC stains on PT and of course while I liked the semi-Cedar, she liked the AC Seqoia and Semi Sierra Redwood . I read some threads about people mixing the AC colors, can you easily mix AC colors? or shouldnt I mess around with that.? I'm afraid the Seqoia may look too red and solid for me especially with it on all the rails and pergola that sits over corner of the deck, but dont know until I get some samples down on my wood. Maybe a Sierra , Semi cedsr blend? Thanks!

Edited June 24, 2012 by gary11

[bigchaz 157]

Hi Gary, you can mix any of the Armstrong colors together quite well, it gives it a really nice look. Wife is usually boss on colors so don't get in too much of a fight! I'm with you though, we prefer the semi transparents as the semi-solids are very opaque and hide much of the wood grain. Here is a picture of a mix between two parts Cedar Semi Transparent and one part Sierra Redwood Semi Transparent: I think you could go half and half to give it a little more red color.

[gary11 14]

ok, thanks Charlie. Those pictures look great and good to know I can mix the semis without issue. I have samples of both of those AC colors - I'll try to look at each sample separately and then also get a 50/50 mix on a board that I'm not using for the deck (I'm replacing one 10 footer so far that was along the house because it had a cut out). I will be treating that board the same way I do the others, cleaner, brightener, sand etc... Then the boss can decide on color..w no fights of course haha...For now, Im still screwing down the boards but will have completed that part by end of this week , so I'm getting closer.I appreciate the responses, everyone has been providing great things for me to think about ( and do) as I try to get this deck completed. Gary

Edited June 25, 2012 by gary11