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RAJD

House Cleaner

Question

I was wondering if anyone has tried JOMAX as a cleaner for vinyle siding, and what the results were.

Also Beth which one of your cleaners would do the job around heavily landscaped homes? Whatever I use has to be biodegradable.

Thanks

Bob

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Extreme Solutions has a new product, not yet released called OFF SIDES that would do the trick. But the best I can tell you is the expected release date is this spring. I'll ask the manufacturer if they can pin that down further. I know that it is currently being tested.

For decks, cedar and log homes, fences and the like, look at HD-80, EFC-38 and Citralic acid. They're tops.

Beth:cool:

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Beth

Ron p. suggested your EFC38 would that work for me?

Ron have you used it? on what finishes?

Ron.

I have a question for you if you dont mind.

you had said on anouther board that you get $1.50 a sq. ft. for decks. I was wondering if that is carved in stone, or do you discount for larger jobs. say over 1500 sq.ft.

Thanks

Bob:

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Nothing is carved in stone..........I always discount larger jobs............everyone else does. Especially jobs that have really large flat areas.........that can be easily sprayed.

If the large job entails alot of detail work, you may want to not offer as much of a discount.

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dirty wood and vynal siding.[efc38]

If you really believe your service is worth what your asking someone else to pay, then you can sell it at that price.

If you dont then your not going to make it.

What are your skill's worth?

To tell you the truth i dont believe in "more work = less charge"

Volume discounts are to move stock, not service.

If I need work and i need to lower my price to get it, i will.

I wont give my work away. That would be just plain stupid.

Draw a line. Set a standered. Dont faulter.

Be the best and remember that someone else had to work to get the money to pay you.

Here is a good question for you.

Customer wants the job done for $500 [deck job}

You look at it and "to do it right" you will need to charge $600

She[owner] wont budge on the price.

1] do you walk away[because she wont budge]

2] do it right for her price,and lower your profit?

3]do it half assed and collect your profit and go?

I think about all 3 for one instant.

Then i think about paying my bill's

Then I ????????????????

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thats a good point ron,we all hate to turn down money,on the other hand just as soon as we try to cut a corner it will come back to haunt us,on these jobs i just do it and do a good job,and consider it cash flow,i wont do it often and i wont do it if i think the other person is trying to work me.

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I think you have to start to discount for volume. If a deck contractor came to you and said, "I know you get 1.50 per sqft to do decks, but I want to contract you to do all the decks we build (clean and seal) but because I am giving you all our decks, I only want to pay you 1.15 per sqft. And I will guarantee 5 decks per week."Are you going to turn that down?

Also, if you have a 2000 sqft deck, would you still charge 1.50?

I wouldn't. I would probably go to 1.25 or somewhere around there.

Just my .02

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that depends if the 1.50 was allready a "lowball cant make a profit if i keep doing this ill be filing bankruptcy monday price"

we will all lower our prices to a certain point for volume,but sometime it gets out a hand.

ive got companies who will give me all the work i want,but it is at prices that makes you wonder if its worth losing your respect taking?

thats a question that affects us all

i have made $5,000 a week and i have also worked 4 days for $400 after making one its hard to accept the other.

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I don't think 1.50 per sqft is by any means a low ball price. I have bid against guys bidding .50 per sqft. I have won a low percentage of those bids. I have also re-cleaned and sealed about 85-90% of the bids I lost to the .50 per sqft guy. He in essence has made me alot of money. I understand he sold his home depot pressure washer and his bleach and is now working part time for a landscaping company for 7.50 and hour. I am sure we have all dealt with "him" some time in our career.

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i agree and my statement was a general one since i dont perform wood restoration services,i dont know what labor and pricing is involved.

Case in point i own a Home Improvement company as well,and on one particular circumstance in dealing with a new account i was asked to insulate 900 sq ft. hang 28 boards of drywall on a ceiling,mud tape and finish painting for $2100 and supply materials.

after advising the account i would take a loss on this job to help them get past this and get there account and beginning the job only to be told boldly by the lead man,who has to take the door handle out of his pocket to open the door on his company vehicle,i charged too much and he boasted about making $25 an hour.

sometimes its just not worth wasting your breath arguing with some people.

oh this was after the sentence about "when i used to be in business for myself,i bid by the job not the sq footage"

enuff said,you just cant find a response for that statement.

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As far as discounting prices on volume, I would think it would be smart so long as the discount isn't excessive. Take the example given above with the deck builder. He can guarantee 5 decks a week, but wants you to discount your rate by $0.25/square foot...You're making less per square foot, but you're not having to spend time looking for work, bidding, calling, etc. You have a steady supply of work....You would come out ahead this way.

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IF that contractor did everything but the work,then yes i would discount.

He sell's it

He collect's the money

I get paid by him after every job.

All i do is shoot off the mill glaze and seal.

Then yes.

If I have to meet with the customer,bill them,wait for the money.

Then no.

I would just pay him for the refferals.

Big jobs-and discounts?

You save money because of less set-up and break down.

You save because of less travel.

You work a steady 8 hrs.

You are also working for someone that makes a lot of money.

I can talk to a customer for 5 min and know that i need to add 10% just so they can talk me down.

If price comes up more then quality, i add 10%.

On this note, how meny homeowners ask for a break if they pay CASH? That happens at the end of the job,for me.

Another note.On a refferal they ask you to come do a house wash[whatever]. I tell them "i'll come by look at it and give you a quote"

They say "i dont need a quote, I need my house washed"

"ive seen your work"

Now that's why I want my own buissness. Makes you feel like a million buck's.

Had that happen to me 3 times last year.:D :D :D :D :D

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As a starting point, I have a rate scale that I use to multipy against the square footage.

If I know that it takes 30 minutes for setup/teardown time on each job, then I have to factor that time into each estimate. There are economies of scale to be considered when doing certain large jobs. Reduced setup/teardown, reduced travel time, etc.

A sliding rate scale allows me to adjust the per s/f charge necessary to make the hourly rate I desire.

For example....If someone has a deck that is 8x10, or 80s/f, I could not make the hourly rate I desire at $1.50 s/f. I may need to charge $2.50 s/f to make the rate. The bottom line is I have to predict how long it's going to take me to do a job, and price it accordingly. Square footage is only one measurement. An experienced eye will usually tell you how much you need to adjust from that initial number.

Sometimes I take the square footage number, and add in a PITA factor (Pain In The A**) to arrive at the total. The PITA factor can go up or down depending on the added complexity or aggravation of a given facet....:D

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One of my favorite situations for applying the PITA factor is a darn fish pond right next to the deck. I have yet to understand the planning that took place when placing a pond kit right next to, or under, a deck. I got called to quote a deck that was actually two separate decks, connected via a wooden walkway, over a pond. It looked nice alright.

The deck had multiple CWF coats, and I had a gut feeling I was going to have trouble keeping the stripper completely out of the water. Somehow I know that HD80 and aquatic life wouldn't mix well.

I declined to quote the job, but I wish I would have taken a picture of it!

On another one, the pond was beside the deck, and I was able to cover the water with a piece of plywood and a blue tarp. It worked well, but still required extra effort, thus the PITA factor was very appropriate.

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