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What would you do?

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Here is a deck I was asked to estimate for a guy. He told me a few boards might need replacing and would I give him an estimate. Not a problem, I do minor repairs. Here are some pics of the wood. I think he needs more than a few boards replaced. I am not sure where to run with this. The whole deck has been neglected and shows rot over 50% of it. Structurally, the PTP supporting the deck is ok. I am unsure what to replace. Aesthetically, he could use a new floor. I'm waiting for a call back from him but in the interim I figured I would ask some opinions. Sorry about the shadows. These were taken mid afternoon.

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Hmmmm you could always blow it up and start allover again :D

How big is that deck 300-400 sqft?

I guess it would depend on how much he's willing to spend on repairs.

You could bid a deck in that bad of shape and the bid is more$$ than the deck is worth :)

Are you talking 5-10 boards some sanding maby?

Are you thinking of using a solid stain?That might help hide some bad boards.

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Shane, with both sections it runs 26'x16'. With privacy fence, planter box and misc fascia, steps, rails, spindles, and some railroad ties you can't see..wood sf is about 900. He has some CWF on there that believe it or not is still beading in spots. There's lap marks all over the place, streaks carved in the wood from somee guy hiting it with a gazillion psi. It's a mess. I'm taking it down to bare. I'm a little concerned about knots in the cedar popping out on me even though I stay at about 300 psi on soft woods. I'm also concerned about the color variations between the new and old boards using a semi.

If I replace the decking with 5/4 Western Red Cedar, he is probably looking in the ballpark of $4000 for the whole job. To build a new deck around here in same material would cost him about 12k.

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If the verticals are in good condition, then replacing all the horizontals would be more cost effective than washing them. Understandably though, most cedar on the market these days are newer growth and will be shot in about 5-7 years. Finding the better mature growth wood in cedar is tough. Many of our customers have moved away from cedar to ptp or ipe' and trex. The latter I dont recommend to any of our customers due to the problems inherant in it.

You have a good opportunity to make this customer happy, question is, how much will his happiness cost him?

Rod~

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I say replace the whole floor. I think a patch job on this would be a big hassle, and if you go that route, pull out all the waivers. I can't imagine anyone would be pleased with the appearance of new boards next to old rotten ones, so protect yourself.

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I say replace the whole floor. I think a patch job on this would be a big hassle, and if you go that route, pull out all the waivers. I can't imagine anyone would be pleased with the appearance of new boards next to old rotten ones, so protect yourself.

2 tone would help hide the old vertical pices and stain the new floor. It may look good. I've looked at Beth & Rod's pic's and there are some nice looking 2 tone decks.

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Def, replace the horizontals. One thing comes to mind, How is the framing under the floor? Is it rotted too? If it is, I think this tells you a total replacement is not out of the question. Watch out on the 5/4 board, it has a high probability of squeaking when walked on especially if the deck is elevated. How old is this deck? Remember that not all decks are salvageable (?sp). You def. have alot on the plate with this one.

I would also consider the "2 Tone" for the appearance too.

Reed

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Understandably though, most cedar on the market these days are newer growth and will be shot in about 5-7 years.

Rod~

That doesn't seem very long. I'm not sure where you got those numbers, but I'd double check.

I have customers that I've been servicing for many years, that were brand new when I started, and still look extremely good.

I agree that new growth wood is not as strong or decorative as older growth, but if it's maintained properly, should give a nice long service life.

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