first check in hand

[Barry M 73]

I started my first job two weeks ago. I used F18 to remove the first layer of gunk. Then a mix of 12% and dish soap to kill mold and mildew. I used F8 to brighten. I was planning on using RS but couldn't get the weather to cooperate. Two weekends later I got the job done in between rain showers using Wood Tux Wet. I am happy with the results and so are the homeowners. Next weekend I'm starting their other deck up by the house. I think this was a tuff first deck and I learned a lot, it took me 15hrs total, but my bid was close to right on. Thanks to all for your help.

[Barry M 73]

A couple more pics of the dock.

[seymore 90]

Sweet looking job Barry :cool:

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Nice job! Cool!

[PressurePros 249]

Hey that looks great! Just wondering, was that a school of bass I saw floating by belly up?

[Barry M 73]

Hey that looks great! Just wondering, was that a school of bass I saw floating by belly up?

No, the fish all died last winter.

[sturgisjr 14]

Nice job there! I have a few questions...Did you do anything to prevent the chemicals and old layer of gunk from getting into the water?

I have a job I am starting the end of this month... its a white latex sealed deck that needs to be stripped and I am using F-18 on it. This deck hangs slightly over the Lake and I am nervous about getting paint and chemicals in there. I was thinking of setting up posts in the water with tarp attached on them unless anyone else has a better Idea?

Also, this was my first year doing a dock. Around here docks are installed in May and then taken out in October. It is a lot of work restoring them when they are out of the water. You need to find room for all the sections on the customers yard and do it from there. Has anyone had experience with 25 or more sections of dock per customer? I am trying to learn how to make dock restoration a more easier experience. Anyone have any suggestions?

This one dock I am doing, the customer wants me to repaint her dock stantions. It was steel and had a bad case of rust and peeling paint. I used a wire brush attached to my sander to remove all the rough spots and to smooth them out. I plan on applying a rust proof enamel. Good idea?

[PLD 14]

After you remove the bulk rust, try "painting" over the rusty surface with Naval Jelly. I converts rust into a paintable surface.

[Barry M 73]

Nice job there! I have a few questions...Did you do anything to prevent the chemicals and old layer of gunk from getting into the water?

No I didn't, it was a private lake and the guy wasn't concered about it. Of course I wasn't stripping off latex paint, just some spots of a failed sealer and mostly mildew. But I do wish I had used citric instead of oxalic to brighten, my bad, I have since switched.

[sturgisjr 14]

Is it called "NAVEL JELLY?" If I went out to a paint or hardware store, would someone know what I was talking about? Where can I get that?

The dock stantions are the parts that are underwater. I know that there is no way any kind of paint even marine paint will last in there after long periods. Am I right? This is what I hear even from boat mariner companies. They say that rust proof enamel is the same thing and will produce similar results as a marine paint.

Opinions??

[Dale 16]

Is it called "NAVEL JELLY?" If I went out to a paint or hardware store, would someone know what I was talking about? Where can I get that?

The dock stantions are the parts that are underwater. I know that there is no way any kind of paint even marine paint will last in there after long periods. Am I right? This is what I hear even from boat mariner companies. They say that rust proof enamel is the same thing and will produce similar results as a marine paint.

Opinions??

You should be able to get navel jelly or other rust converters at a hardware store. They work pretty good but wear gloves.