Innocent looking deck- HD80 question

[PressurePros 248]

I took on a deck job and committed mortal sin. I did not do a test, just jumped right into the strip. The deck had one year old Cabot's decking stain on top of Thompson's done a year prior to that..all homeowner applied. The sealer was failed miserably with worn spots, mold, you name it. In other spots it looked like they just kept "painting" over it to cover drips, runs and spots. What a nightmare. HD at 4 oz was like applying dish soap. Took it to full strength 20 minute dwell. Some of it came off. Reapplied at 10 oz/gal and let dwell 40 minutes. This time 98% of it came off when I used 800 psi. Needless to say, I can knit a sweater with what dried on the surface of the spindles. There is plenty of money in the job so I am not sweating the defurring, but could I have taken a better route? Would this have been a time to have Boost on hand?

[CCHSNC 14]

The best bet would have to just started with F-18 and had been done with it the first time. To detail get yourself a variable speed buffer and a an Ozborn brush. The buffing pads are for the birds.

[Aplus 525]

Ken,

I have used both HD-80 and F18, and can tell you for a fact, that both have very similar strip characteristics.

The F-18 seems to be a little easier on people, it doesn't seem to burn the skin as much, which can be a plus.

I get very tired of hearing to use F-18 and be done with it. Both are excellent products, but are not perfect for all situations.

If the Cabots you spoke of is the opaque variety, it will take a little more work to effectively remove it. If you got 98% off, that's not too bad. One thing I like about the Boost is that dwell times can be reduced, and you don't have to stand around as long applying more chems to keep the wood wet.

However, Boost added to HD-80 will still cause fuzzing and likely require sanding for a perfect finish.

There are a lot of fine products available, and it certainly does not hurt to have multiple products on hand for varying circumstances as they arise. That's what being a professional is about.

Good Luck with the sanding, and post pix for us all to see.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Actually Ken, you have the answer. Stronger, dwell longer. At 8 oz I have always understood you may have to go as high as 40 minutes depending on the finish.

I think Tony pretty much nailed it.

Beth

[CCHSNC 14]

To Tony and All. Why are you waisting your time with such long dwell periods? Well I guess if you are using HD-80 you don't have a choice. Time is money and that's why I only use F-18. I can mix it as strong as 32oz (weight not volume) per gallon with very little mix not desolving. (like a table spoon or 2) Now if you mix it this strong be careful because it will be VERY HOT! And in all truthfullness F-18 really is a great all around product. I know people who love it for simple concrete cleaning to degreasing dumpster pads to cleaning roofs to stripping decks to stripping Log Homes shall I go on?? HD-80 had it's place in the maket until Bob at Pressure Tek came out with something 10 times better. I have stripped week old Sikkens Cetol 1 and 23 Plus in one shot with it at 16 oz per gallon with a dwell time of like 5 minutes. Try that with I dare to say any other stripper on the market today. Ok I'm done. :)

[JFife 14]

Robert,

I'm trying F18 this week. Bob sent me a sample, and should be enough to do the deck at my house. I'll email you here when I get a couple minutes and let you know what I've been up to. Oh, and I've found a new ace-in-the-hole for stripping waterbase, i.e. pchink, sascho, etc. I've not had good luck using naoh on these products, but i found something cheap and easy and harmless and good and cheap!! I'll hollar at you soon,

ps---still in the market for a chink pump or blaster?? I've found a much cheaper source for that too,

[Brian Keating 14]

Robert,

I hope you are getting paid by the word to promote F-18. Every post I read you are talking about it. I have tried it and yes it's a good product. But you make it sound like a god send. I have to agree with Beth and Tony when I say I would choose TimberStrip or HD-80 over F-18 when I have a tough finish to remove.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

One other thing to think about when stripping ( regardless of product ) is that if you have an uneven application of what you are trying to remove you are more likely to fuzz the deck up in some spots, where the sealer you are removing is thinner, and you go back to bare wood faster. Just a tip, if you can visually see where the product is applied more heavily, apply your stripper there first, then work on the areas that do not need as much dwell time.

Hope this helps some of you out.

Beth :sunshine: :groovy3:

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Many instances of furring occurs because of a couple of different reasons.

One is uneven application where some of the product is applied thinly whereas other areas have a heavier coating.

Another is due to applying a stripper to areas that dont need it because the product is worn off to begin with.

Keeping this in mind going forward should help limit the amount of furring you will have to deal with as you get used to stripping a deck and noticing the parts that turn dark quicker on it than other indicating what I have mentioned above.

Rails, in most cases should be the most time consuming areas of your stripping and the floor the least of your worries because of the amount of over spray that will land on it anyway as you are waiting for the rails to be ready.

Which ever product you use, time, attention to where the product is being effective as to where it is not, and keeping it wet and active where it is needed is the most important to controlling the process.

As far as dwell times are concerned, they will vary according to product being removed and temperatures present on the site. No one product is the be-all-end-all solution to every situation. Knowledge of materials, products and individual techniques dictates which works best and when.

The only time being wasted here is the bashing being conducted out of line with respect to the accomplishments of products that have proven their effectiveness and place in the field.

Im glad to hear someone is so enthusiastic about a specific product line and that it has worked well for them. Lets not persist on the basis of one being better over the other when all too many know from their own experience that which ever they are using...its because they have gotten the results they wanted from them and continue to order more from which ever supplier as a result. Respect comes from knowing when a point has been made and step back and let others decide for themselves...its their choice.

Rod~