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Beth n Rod

Some teak furniture...

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If it is properly made product, whether natural oil or synthetic, they will cure out hard and lock things in so such don't happen. As example..Problems could occur if say linseed is used that is not of the boiled variety where dryers are added. Synthetics are more fool proof on dry out but they present there own problems.

The caveat on all this outdoor furnture finishing thing is that you have to pick a product suitable for outdoors where the wood will experience moisture and contraction- aka- you have to go towards using a long/spar oil. As you move that direction you loose the hardness and ability to keep or produce a buffable finish but they flex.

Outdoor furniture needs a mixture of different oils to be somewhere in the mid to long range. Short oils will crack off. Getting some urethane in there can help.

Indoor stuff ya can just go to pure synthetics in using a nice varathane, poly, or conversion varnish...

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I've never had the joy of finishing furniture, I always get the "well we could just buy a new set for that price" answer. Dry times seem to be a little longer up here so that's why i was wondering...which stain is good for outdoor furniture?

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I've never had the joy of finishing furniture, I always get the "well we could just buy a new set for that price" answer. Dry times seem to be a little longer up here so that's why i was wondering...which stain is good for outdoor furniture?

Well you could take a long spar oil/marine varnish (a mix of synthetic resins and a high percentage of drying oils such as tung and linseed) and do it up with 1/3 tung and 1/3 naptha. That'll dry quik from the tung and naptha and still have the durability qualities from the varnish as well as the water resistance of the tung. Adding Japan dryer shouldn't even be needed if the selected products are already modified...test out first before doing a customers though.

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We like the alkyds on outdoor furniture...

Wood Tux works, you can use SRD or ATO if you like but they don't hold up as well as they used to...

Beth

Most all is alkyd these days unless using the parrafinic non-drying mineral oil stuff...

To be clear, far as mixes and these products go, the alkyd resin portion is what takes time to dry. It is the addition of the blown (heated) and boiled(metalic dryers) oils to a mix that causes a faster dry via the oil/air oxidation/cross link.

Generally speaking an alkyd can be anywhere across the board in terms of drying time(short,medium, long) due to mix percentages and how much of it boiled, carrier type, etc., but yet it can have the end flexability/dry out qualities of the various drying oils (short, medium, long) again due to percentages...as I've pointed out before, there are numerous oil paintings still drying out centuries later from when painted. Raw unboiled oils applies there.

With that said I realize most use ready made products for exterior wood care and but find it almost useless to hear that an alkyd is being used without discussing it's known qualities. We all know of debackles where this or that didn't dry properly. Alkyd should be thought of as being for durability. And but specific case of moisture resistance, shine, usablity comes to play we need to tread into the 'short or long' of it..just a thought.. :)

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