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Jhignutt

12% Bleach

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Hello,

I'm new to pressure washing but have been doing a lot of researching on the subjuct. Regarding bleach most of my research say stay away from bleach period. I went to a chemical store and these folks said that they know quite a few pressure washer using industrial strength bleach. So I bought a 5 gal container. The research states that it will adversely affect the nozzle and pump so I'm planning on using it externally of the pressure washer.

Regarding the closeness of the wand to the surface, namely concrete, I found that with my 3000 psi 2.7 gpm ryobi pressure washer, I need to be at least two inches from the surface to get the desired results. I invested in a rotary nozzle and a wand extension and I'll try these once the weather improves. My next task is my deck and tennis court. You see, I'm testing on my home first before I start soliciting to enhance my business.:lgmoneyey

What Jeff said, except make sure you keep the rotary nozzle away from the deck and tennis court (unless the court is regular concrete, and not coated with that green tennis court coating).

Don't take this the wrong way, but did all that research tell you to buy such a small machine, or did you get it before you started the research? It will work, but it is going to be quite slow compared to using a larger machine.

Not sure what you mean by industrial strength bleach. Is this pool chlorine? What are you paying for it?

As Jeff said, an Xjet will work, or you can use a downstreamer. Neither method will damage your machine.

I'd spend many hours here reading back posts in the various forums, and doing searches for things you know you'll be doing. It will save you a lot of headache and heartache down the road!!

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Using a 5.5 gpm machine and M-5 for application

Most exteriors with what I would consider average mildew/algea/dirt/cobwebige, I mix about 2g 10.5% chlorine, 3/4g of Emulsifer Plus and the rest water per 5g running through an open M-5.

On most house washes (even if most of the house isn't that bad), There will always seem to be a few bad areas where your regular house wash mix just won't cut it. With these areas, its better not to strengthen your whole mix just for a few stubborn areas. I keep my trusty, juiced up, pump up sprayer containing full strength chlorine for these areas.

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On most house washes (even if most of the house isn't that bad), There will always seem to be a few bad areas where your regular house wash mix just won't cut it. With these areas, its better not to strengthen your whole mix just for a few stuburon areas. I keep my trusty, juiced up, pump up sprayer containing full strength chlorine for these areas.

Yep, I do the same...for very very stubborn dirty gutters with moss and heavy algae, for concrete/cinderblock foundations, and for black mold on concrete. Works great!!!

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CCPC

I am going to be washing a painted metal warehouse soon. I don't usually do buildings however this belongs to one of my good fleet customers.

I have a 3500psi 5.6gpm hot washer. I was going to use my truck wash soap to clean. Now I am wodering if your mix would be better ? I apply chemicals with surflo pump. There is no mold or mildue but years of just dirt and paint loos faded.

I am concerned about streaking and uneven cleaning. What do you think would be best for a metal building?

Thanks in advance.....Anyone can you help me>

mr. P

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CCPC

I am going to be washing a painted metal warehouse soon. I don't usually do buildings however this belongs to one of my good fleet customers.

I have a 3500psi 5.6gpm hot washer. I was going to use my truck wash soap to clean. Now I am wodering if your mix would be better ? I apply chemicals with surflo pump. There is no mold or mildue but years of just dirt and paint loos faded.

I am concerned about streaking and uneven cleaning. What do you think would be best for a metal building?

Thanks in advance.....Anyone can you help me>

mr. P

I'm assuming it's aluminum? if so, its hard to say without actually seeing it. Personally, unless it's in realitvley good condtion, I tend to stay away from badly oxidized painted alum., if it is badly oxidized you could try a two step method, but even then your still playing with fire. I would probably do a test spot with an adjusted house wash mix, and see if I can achieve good results without leaving wand marks, or discoloration. I can tell you this, whatever method you would choose to use, you need to keep the pressure mild and keep some distance from the surface, as to help prevent the possibility of swipe marks.

Maybe this would be a good time for one of you northerners with all that alum siding experience to chime in.

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Lance,

Nope it's steel. Lot's of this in Texas.

Ya, the wand marks is what I am worried about. I get this sometimes on semi-trailers and it is tough to get rid of them, don't want to do this on a building that sits in one spot for everyone to see!

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