Wood Tux Tint Formulas

[Mike Stahmer 14]

For those that use wood Tux, can you give me your formulations for different colors such as W. Red Cedar, Redwood and Cedar. I was experimenting with a gallon but realized how touchy the tinting was. So far all emails to the manufacturer and calls have not been returned to me and don't really like that to much. If I am going to use this product, the customer service is pretty bad as far as getting this info and feel like I am getting left out in the dark over here. I know evryone uses little pipes or something like that. WHat is the accual volume of a pipe.

[PressurePros 248]

I speak to Russell, the ESI representative at least four times per week calling from 8 am until 8 pm and I have never had a situation where he did not answer the phone. 636-288-8512 is his direct number.

Mike, some questions for you. Are you using ESI's tints or other universal colorants? The plastic pippettes I use for measuring Russell enclosed when I ordered tint. I don't have one in front of me but I believe they are 3 mL. You have to use black very sparingly. Three ml of black will change the tone noticeably in a single gallon so while you are experimenting with a gallon or less you have to add slowly and chart your results. The red is much more forgiving. Somewhere on this site are the formulas you asked for, I apologize for not having direct links for you. If I talk to Russell today I will be sure to pass along your message to him.

[Mike Stahmer 14]

Thanks Ken,

I found out about the black quickly. I basically ruined a gallon with one squirt to many! My point really being though for the price of the product, this kind of experimenting should be done by Wood Tux! I don't really wish to be experimenting for a desired color. For instance, you go to get paint, there are color charts and there you go. I want to offer colors to customers that are the same and don't think I can uniformly do that by guessing and wasting products for testing.

In a case I had this week, I used a blended experiment color that came out well! I needed another gallon or so and had to make that gallon look like the 5ver mix. It was very tough and time consuming to do this. Also, the color was a little off because of the non exact science to it. All recipies available are "pipette" recipies. What I really need are "ml recipies". This way If I need 2 gallons of redcedar I simply add the right amounts each time. This way, I can use a syringe that will inject the perfect amount everytime with no " add alittlethis and that and test it kind of deal". I like the product and rich look and think these recommendations are well founded for better success of uniformity and usability of Wood Tux!

[Celeste 341]

Mike,

I have just gotten in 10 gallons of Wood Tux that were purchased specifically for making up a "cookbook". Next week, I will be getting all of the wood samples that I want as well and the mixing will begin! I plan to base the mixtures on a half-gallon basis so that all the next guy will have to do is the math to figure how much he will need :)

What type wood do you run into most often over there? At this time, I'm planning on these type woods: PT pine, old & new; White pine, Ipe, Siberian Larch, both Red & white Cedars, and redwood.

Celeste

[Mike Stahmer 14]

That sounds great. All my wood over here is redwood! I would really appreciate some recipies so I can offer a color chart and be accurate every time.

[seymore 90]

Siberian Larch,

Celeste

Siberian Larch who?:dunno: Is he related to the Siberian Huskies?? ;)

Celeste...Are the custom samples you're making going to used when you bid your jobs or just working on your recipies?

It's hard to give the customer a accurate example of the finished product on a piece of sample wood.My boards are never the same age of their wood or especially after you strip a deck the color tone looks different most of the time.I like the customer who say "whatever you think looks good" :cool:

Since you are staining the deck the same day you clean it couldn't you make a sample somewhere on their deck after you cleaned their deck?

[Littlefield 65]

Mike, the pipettes are 3 ml. Go one ml at a time into a five from what Russell told me, and you'll see the difference. As far as making up exact recipes, thats fine, but surely you know to prep the homeowner that the wood will be different everywhere, etc. Really, if you offer more than 1 or 2 choices, you're going to be getting into a lot of time waswting as uncertain customers waffle back and forth over tiny shade variations, only to find it doesn't matter when the job is all done. I would go with just the Warm Honey Gold, (base color) The western red cedar,(red tint) and the other with black tint, call it what you want...;)

[seymore 90]

Really, if you offer more than 1 or 2 choices, you're going to be getting into a lot of time waswting as uncertain customers waffle back and forth over tiny shade variations, only to find it doesn't matter when the job is all done.

EXACTLY what Rich said...cause you could go round and round with too many color options.If you look at their brick or stone color,paint etc.You can give your options of what color your stain will produce on their wood.

[Mike Stahmer 14]

Rich and Seymore I understand this! I just want cedar, w red cedar and redwood! My main point was that there should be some uniformity in making colors whatever they may be! It seems like everyone has these pipes etc. I was told I can't buy them yet. I am using universal colorants! I'll figure it out! Also, when thinning the Wood Tux, has anyone noticed that it thickens itself up after a while. It did to me! If I keep having to thin it on a big deck, will this affect the product?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Mike,

The red pigment should get you there. You can accomplish quite a bit without using any black at all. I know this, because we have used all the Wood Tux colors and are familiar with them. Hope this helps.

Beth

[Celeste 341]

Siberian Larch who?:dunno: Is he related to the Siberian Huskies?? ;)

Siberian Larch is a "new" wood - falls in between PT and Ipe on the density scale...natural color is very close to yellow pine.

Celeste...Are the custom samples you're making going to used when you bid your jobs or just working on your recipies?

Shane, it will be for both.....we'll see what they all look like when we finish. It's going to be more for a representative shade as opposed to a choice for the customer.

It's hard to give the customer a accurate example of the finished product on a piece of sample wood.My boards are never the same age of their wood or especially after you strip a deck the color tone looks different most of the time.I like the customer who say "whatever you think looks good" :cool:

Usually we get that - it is great!

Since you are staining the deck the same day you clean it couldn't you make a sample somewhere on their deck after you cleaned their deck?

Our upcoming jobs are not cleans - they're full strip, detail & stain so they are not scheduled as same day jobs....but yes, we could do a test spot if the customer wanted. Only thing with that versus having sample boards is that the test spot will not have the actual appearance of the finished product.

Celeste

[seymore 90]

Thanks Celeste...Good luck on your recipies.....:lgkeyboar

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Interestingly, the Larch family of wood is still classified as a softwood.

Beth

[PressurePros 248]

Also, when thinning the Wood Tux, has anyone noticed that it thickens itself up after a while. It did to me! If I keep having to thin it on a big deck, will this affect the product?

Mike, you are mixing oil and water so of course the oil wants to fall out of suspension. If you "spread" the product with water, you have to be sure to keep it stirred.

[Mike Stahmer 14]

Ya, I was using water! I couldnt believe I was doing it but it works. I also tried a half Ready Seal half Wood Tux gallon with success. I was seing how far I could go!