New to panel. Would like some input on Sikkens & sprayers

[okeefecw 14]

I'm relatively new to deck restoration by comparison to most who write in these discussions. I haven't found any discussion where people use the sikkens product. Is this because people have had bad experiences with sikkens? I've looked into Ready Seal and had some samples shipped up to me but i'm not totally convinced it's better than the sikkens product. Could somebody convince me otherwise?

Here is how I do most of the deck restoration work. (I live in MN and most of the decks are Cedar)

*If the deck was previously painted or has a stain which I don't think can be removed with power washing alone I will sand the floor and power wash the entire deck knowing not all of the previous stain will be removed on the rails. Since I do not sand the vertical surfaces I paint the railings and stain the floor using the sikkens stain.

*If the deck can be cleaned using power washing methods I will apply Sikkens to the entire deck. I do not use any stripers as I have not had very good results using them. I've read here that many people use the HD 80 product. I'm going to have to look further into that product and how it is applied.

I would appreciate any comments on my restoration process and any improvements I can make. I am going to try to post some pictures so people can see some before and after pics.

ALSO:

I just bought a titan 440i sprayer from sherwin williams. I've used sprayers for fences and the floors of decks but it's always been such a hassle on the railings because of overspray and what not. I would appreciate any comments as to what kind of sprayers people use and where they can be bought. Or, if the sprayer I am using will work fine if I just buy a specific tip for it. Any mentoring on the subject of deck restoration would be greatly appreciated. I don't beleive I entered a valid phone number for my profile but my email should work so if somebody is interested in taking some time to mentor a bit more email me and I'll send you my phone number. Thank you!

[JFife 14]

Hey Okeef,

....cannot argue with results. That deck looks mint. I'll offer a few thoughts, perhaps they'll help.

Your Titan 440 is perfect, all you'll ever need.

Appearantly, you are using the SRD product. I think it looks nice, but is tough to apply an re-finish without leaving a film. It isn't a bad product, but there is better. I've had good results with TWP, others have other preferences.

..but, I am going back to Readyseal. I was mentored recently by a guy that does (was doing) around 40million a year in decks/wood (not a mis-print) and he offered me some advice to get better results with RS, I tried it, and was thrilled. RS is easy to apply, but HARD TO USE!!! Sounds contradictory, but it isn't. Prep must be good. Moisture must be right. Application must be adaquate, and done in a specific manner. Done right, it will wear like iron. I used it for a few years back around the turn of the millenium, had some AWESOME results, and some poor results. I've since figured out why certain things happened, and how to prevent it. Call Pierce if you want the best advice on RS use. You may not like what you hear, but at least you'll know what constitutes proper application.

[okeefecw 14]

Thank you for the replying jon

How do i get a hold of this Pierce and would it be weird if I just called him. 40 million in deck restoration sounds insane. He must now his stuff.

[JFife 14]

Yes, Pierce is very weird to talk to, LOL:) Kind of a cross between Charles Manson and Carrot Top. ....Pierce is the salesperson for RS, not the guy that does 40. ...Top of my head, I think his # (pierce) is: 800-599-4424. If you don't buy any RS, he'll promptly mail you a bill charging you for the usage of his 800 number:) Good luck, post some more pics of your work. Ever use the DEK product?? Or Cetol??

[okeefecw 14]

Jon

I havent tried the DEK or the Cetol. I've used SRD because it was recommended to me by this guy I used to work for. Here are a couple more pics.

[okeefecw 14]

Jon,

I forgot to ask, when you use strippers what strippers/cleaners and equipment do you use. Currently the only chemical I use is a cleaner/brightner in one with a pump sprayer I got from the hardware store for like $20. Couple more pics for ya.

[JFife 14]

Your results are very nice. Cool decks!! To apply chems, you need to use a Shurflo spraying system. Do a search on here for that, and you'll find tons of stuff, as well as how to build one. You might call Bob at www.pressuretek.com he might sell them, and he also sells F18max stripper, which is my favorite chem stripper, and he also sells cleaner, brightener, etc. There is nothing wrong with a pump-up, these systems are just faster, safer.

I am curious, how efficient are you with that sander?? Do you first set nails, etc?? How do you get edges, under railings, corners, etc??

[okeefecw 14]

Jon

Thanks for the compliment. Im actually a bit frustrated with the service that I offer at this point because while some companys on this forumn are able to remove old stain and clean railings I unfortunatly have not been able to figure out an efficient way to do so yet. Hence, I tell customers that I need to paint them otherwise the Sikkens stain won't soak in properly and will look blotchy etc. I would like to give them the option to re-stain there entire deck. I saw this video today on sealmaxx's website where they kind of walk through the process of restoring a deck. Im pretty sure petrifying the wood is bad but the process they go through to clean their decks looks pretty good.

As far as the sanding goes it is efficient for horizontal surfaces (But can get tiring depending on the job). I charge a dollar per square foot and for a 300 square foot deck(with no steps) I could get it done in an hour. Not every deck can get sanded depending on the railing structure. If the railings are constructed on top of the deck floor it can make it very difficuilt to get underneath the rail. The only belt sander I've found to get under rails or in tight areas is a black and decker model (not my favorite brand). Nails do have to get set but the orbital floor sander I use is pretty forgiving with nails.

[JFife 14]

...you just need to try the right products. Talk to Bob. Spray on, protect plants, metal, etc., let sit for 20 minutes or so, rinse off, apply brightener, rinse again. It will take off everything except some acrylics. Start off weak with your solutions. It is one of those things that is easier learned by "doing and following directions" than by "listening". The instructions on his products are easy to follow, etc.

[okeefecw 14]

.....sounds good jon thanks for the info, very appreciated

[RPetry 564]

Conor,

Pierce is very weird to talk to, LOL:) Kind of a cross between Charles Manson and Carrot Top

That is hilarious, I'm sure you know that Jon is kidding. Peirce is a great guy and customer service is one of the many reasons I use Ready Seal almost exclusively going on three years now. His tele. number is 757-599-4424.

BTW, the pictures are great. You do very nice work.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Conor,

We have been using various Sikkens products for yeas and have also been using Wood Tux for years. If you like the way the SRD goes on and looks, you will most likely like the Wood Tux. Great coverage, highly durable, and can be applied to wood wet or dry. It is made by Extreme Solutions. Extreme Solutions also makes the HD-80 you have been reading about. We use all of their wood care products, have for years now and get consistent results every time.

Beth

p.s. Excellent work!

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I would avoid applying any of the Cetol Dek products to cedar. The reason being is that the wood is so soft that its fibers are literally crushed each time you walk on it. With the substrate constantly being destroyed just from regular use, the product will fail miserably in a year because it will not have a solid structure to hold on to. Stick with an oil based product that penetrates deeply and doesn't rely on a thick coating to protect it. TWP, Ready Seal, Cabot Australian Timber Oil and others similar in formulation will give better lasting results. Plan on servicing them once a year due to the same reasons above.

On the other hand, for PTP (Pressure Treated Pine) Cetol Dek, 1,2-3 and SRD are suitable for their use. Another situation to avoid with the Cetol Dek product is decks with less than 2' clearance below them as the lack of airflow allows for excessive moisture buildup and can lead to an overactive expansion/contraction rate in the wood that the product cannot meet (IE: thermal dynamics) and will crack and peel.

Rod!~

[JFife 14]

Rod,

...Very interesting theory (perhaps fact) on why DEK fails on cedar. Makes total sense, but I've never heard that before. Is that an original hypothesis or did Sikkens suggest that to you as a reason for failure?? Either way, great info.