Good Stain for Nebraska Environment

[Guest HuskerFan]

I'll be posting pics real soon.

[Guest HuskerFan]

Here's the playground I built. It has a gang plank, 10ft slide, rock wall, lower deck with built in picnic table, swing, rings. I will add a rope ladder, fireman's pole, and climbing rope later. It is basically a 6'x6' fort with a roof and lower deck. I overhung the top 4'x4' banisters (railings) so that I could suspend my accessories from them. I wanted to save space. This setup is about $3000.00 from PlayNation or other dealer. I did it for about $700 with PT wood. I will be using RS on it.

[Guest HuskerFan]

Here are some new pics after I did the second cleaning using OxyBoost. You can see the before cleaning pics in post #4 and the pics after the first cleaning using an off-the-shelf product in post #17 with which I wasn't happy; hence these are the after OxyBoost cleaning pics. Notice in New1 that the deck looks darker than in the before cleaning pics. But it is cleaner. In New3 if you look real close, you can see the circle where the Umbrellas stand sat. The circle is almost gone, so you know my deck is much cleaner.

[Guest HuskerFan]

Here are the last two pics regarding the darkness of my deck. I think I just need a good neutralizer/brightener. One guy said I should use straight bleach on the entire deck. I'm not going to do that. I don't think it is a mildew problem. My deck sits in direct Sun most of the day, and after cleaning with Oxygen Bleach, I would think the mildew/algae is not a factor. On the closeup, you can see a little furring. I'll probably sand lightly with a drywaller's pole sander. You can see that the old stain is gone. No filming. I think the grayness that is left is due to tannins. The deck overall has a washed-out look with some graying (tanning) still noticeable. I really think a brightener is my next step. The wood doesn't look like new and I think I can get it closer to the new look yet.

[seymore 90]

Here are the last two pics regarding the darkness of my deck. I think I just need a good neutralizer/brightener. One guy said I should use straight bleach on the entire deck. I'm not going to do that. I don't think it is a mildew problem. My deck sits in direct Sun most of the day, and after cleaning with Oxygen Bleach, I would think the mildew/algae is not a factor. On the closeup, you can see a little furring. I'll probably sand lightly with a drywaller's pole sander. You can see that the old stain is gone. No filming. I think the grayness that is left is due to tannins. The deck overall has a washed-out look with some graying (tanning) still noticeable. I really think a brightener is my next step. The wood doesn't look like new and I think I can get it closer to the new look yet.

That deck looks pretty dry and as hot as it's been you need to put some stain on that deck soon before the them cracks get bigger from the sun!

That cedar is so soft and to much chems/cleaning is not so good for the wood.The wood is looking pretty grey from the sun so get some color on that deck before the sun damgages it some more.

[Proclean 14]

Ditto from what Shane said.

If you are going to use RS, put 2 light coats on and come back in a few weeks and put 1 more light coat on. This is optimal.

[Guest HuskerFan]

My deck does seem dry. Could part of that be because I didn't neutralize the last time I cleaned my deck? I think it was 2 or 3 years back, and I think I used OxyClean and maybe some Clorox. I remember it being a white, washed-out look before I applied stain to it.

[seymore 90]

It's dry form all the cleaning and mostly from the sun/heat.

There is nothing that will stop your deck from being dry except staining it with the oil base stain.

Ditto what Paul said stain it 2 coats then a week later apply another coat.

[seymore 90]

. In New3 if you look real close, you can see the circle where the Umbrellas stand sat.

Oh by the way if you stain the deck like this you will still see the marks that are still there.You would have to sand that area to blend in the umbrella marks.Now also when you sand it's always best to sand the whole board so it looks even.

[Guest HuskerFan]

One other VERY important note and lesson learned regarding the cracks; I didn't predrill pilot holes for the deck screws. I just took my cordless and ran them right in. Most of the cracks on this deck are along the line of screws. I will always predrill pilot holes from now on. I did on the playground and it went pretty well.

You guys say I need to stain right away (and I believe you are right) but should I neutralize first? Wouldn't that help with the white, washed-out effect?

[Guest HuskerFan]

I'm going to do a litmus test also and let you guys know how it comes out. Appreciate your help.

btw: A pressure washer is on my wish list for Xmas. (-: My knees hurt!

[seymore 90]

You didn't use any stripper did you ?

[Guest HuskerFan]

No, no stripper. I cleaned once with a Sodium Percarbonate, and not liking the results, did a second cleaning with the OxyBoost solution at 8oz/1gal. I have a hot-tub and thus, some strips for testing PH. I did a litmus test on the solution and it was quite high. The HotTub strips' container only has a color scale of 6.2-8.4, but judging by the color, the OxyBoost solution must have been up towards 10. The alkalinity of the solution was quite high also. The scale goes from a dark yellow to dark green, and my result was blue which would indicate a very high alkalinity.

I put some water on the deck and was going to get another litmus strip to test the water on the deck, but I RAN OUT! I'll have to go get some and check the PH of the deck itself. I'm guessing it is on the high side.

[PressurePros 249]

You could save yourself the aggravation of more testing and just neutralize the wood with a light acidic solution. It is going to further wash out some of the natural oils and sugars in the wood but your Ready Seal will fill in those gaps. It will prbably fade very quickly so re-coating in the near future is a good idea.

[seymore 90]

Yeah what Ken said :cool:

[James 625]

With cedar do a heavy coat the first time and do a lite coat the next day. This will give the best penitration of product for a homey. If you see a shiney area the next day it wil not enter the wood and must be removed. Ready Seal expert 2037544284 and cedar tech support.

[PressurePros 249]

Is that Ed Burke's direct line?

[Guest HuskerFan]

for the next 5 days. I won't be able to get back to the deck project until next Wednesday. I figure at that time, I'll give it a Brightener/Neutralizer bath, let it dry for a few days, and then hit it with the stain. Sound like a plan?